I am installing a 4 wire 50 amp plug in the laundry room but I am also plumbing a gas line. If I end up with a gas dryer I'll need a 120V plug. Is it permissible by national code to install a 20A 120V plug off the 50 240V breaker. Since it's an A or B use case it seems safe but is it code compliant?

I leave it to one of the US specialists to reply on the official NEC status of that.

As you suggest that it is either A (110) or B (220), and if you HAVE to install the wiring already now, just draw 2 x phase + 1 neutral + 1 earth, but only connect that all later at both sides , once you know what you need. (So actually wire later either 110 or 220)

Here in Europe (where we do not have 110) we use circuit safety switches on the fuse panel.
A safety switch is a magnetic switch that is controlled by the field generated by the total current draw (with hot and with neutral in reverse - cancelling each other).
In the US case you would wire that with hot and neutral (110) OR hot and hot (220).
But mixing 110 and 220 draw from one circuit would trigger the safety switch (if you use one).

As I stated earlier : I leave it to an US specialist to reply on the official NEC status.

The answer is no it is not code compliant. They need to be on separate breakers of the appropriate size. Of course, you need a 20amp 120v circuit anyway for the laundry by code. Oh, and 50 amps for a dryer seems like too much, someone more familiar with dryer hookups should be by at some point to point you to the right size circuit for that.

Most clothes dryers require a 30 amp 240 V circuit. 10/3 with ground cable and 30 amp double circuit breaker. Most new dryers come with or use 4 wire cord and plug, older models used a 3-wire cord and plug. Purchase receptical and wire to match the cord and plug you will be using.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Credendovidis

Here in Europe (where we do not have 110) we use circuit safety switches on the fuse panel.
A safety switch is a magnetic switch that is controled by the field generated by the total current draw (with hot and with neutral in reverse - cancelling each other).
In the US case you would wire that with hot and neutral (110) OR hot and hot (220).
But mixing 110 and 220 draw from one circuit would trigger the safety switch (if you use one).

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This is all nice information for EU folks, but it is COMPLETELY irrelevant for us here in the US. Our systems do not work like this, so anyone in the US reading this please take that into consideration.

notworken, you DO need a dedicated 120v laundry circuit in a laundry room/area.

If you are running both gas and electric for the dryer, you cannot rely on the dryer electric to convert it.

Do the right thing.
Run a 10/3 for the dryer and a 12/2 for the "laundry" circuit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stanfortyman

This is all nice information for EU folks, but it is COMPLETELY irrelevant for us here in the US. Our systems do not work like this, so anyone in the US reading this please take that into consideration.

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Your reply also is COMPLETELY irrelevant for everyone, as the Internet is WORLDWIDE, and not some play toy for Americans only. Note that I clearly indicated that I left it to one of the US specialists to reply on the official NEC status of the question itself.

:)

Listen junior, we have gone through this several times already. This is NOT the "internet". This is ONE web site on the internet. One US BASED web site.
This is a ***.com site. NOT a ***.co.uk site. GET IT??

I have absolutely nothing against the EU or the UK. In fact I am very proud of my own European heritage. That does not change the fact that 99.9% of the folks that visit this web site are in the US or Canada.

Your statements here are now insulting and simply a feeble attempt to discredit me and that will NOT be tolerated.

Show me where what I wrote was "COMPLETELY irrelevant for everyone". Please, I am very curious.
What I said about your comments stands. True, you deferred to the US pros to give the correct answers, but you then went on to write information about US systems that was NOT true or accurate. I highlighted this in bold specifically for this reason.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stanfortyman

Listen junior, we have gone through this several times already. This is NOT the "internet". This is ONE web site on the internet. One US BASED web site.
This is a ***.com site. NOT a ***.co.uk site. GET IT????

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That I got. But .com sites are available to everyone where ever on earth you live. I have 2 .com websites myself, besides several other websites with another extension.

The point is that this is NOT a website for US citizens only. It is a worldwide website for everyone where ever he/she may be.
You are nothing more than a pedantic BS'er !

GET THAT ????


:D :D :D :D :D :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Credendovidis

The point is that this is NOT a website for US citizens only.

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I NEVER said that. Not even close. I said it is a PRIVATELY OWNED US based web site. You don't like that fact, TOO BAD!
If this were a UK or EU based site it would be very obvious and would probably state that fact.


If any of your posts made ANY sense, or had any relevance to our systems here I would not care. But historically your posts have all been anything from incorrect to incomprehensible.

I suggest you lose the "The world does not revolve around the US" mentality. Thing is I actually agree with you on that, but it is getting quite tiresome around here. :rolleyes:

Stan
There was a question about replacing ungrounded outlets with grounded outlets, did you pick up on that thread? What does the code require now?

Shoot me a PM with the thread. I probably missed it.

No, NEC article 210.11 (c) 2 requires the laundry branch circuit to be just that a 20 amp branch circuit not a tap conductor.

Welcome aboard Zapped. Should take note of dates of threads. This one is a year old. Not to worry though, we've all done it.