Problem started one day when it misfired. The car started but as soon as the key was let go turned off. I was able to hold down the gas pedal as I started it and it stayed on. Then one day driving to work I noticed the speedometer go haywire. Went from 60mph to 0 and back to 60mph. Just was going up and down and my ABS light on the dashboard stayed on. No weird feeling in the car just those things. Got to work and worked OK after on the way home. Then a few days later wouldn't start. Now just ignites then turns off. Won't even stay on if I hold down the gas, doesn't really make a difference like there is no gas going through. I am no mechanic but do work on it myself. Have never had any issues at all and has most original equiptment. Have only done basic brakes and tune ups. Never any issues and has 170K miles on it. I needs some troubleshooting help. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

I live in CA.

. Check/replace the ignition switch, which may be worn, pitted, or melted:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

. Replace the Ignition Control Module:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

If the tachometer was erratic, while the speedometer was erratic, the ICM may be the cause. This would be a good time to also replace the coil, rotor, and distributor cap.

You may want to do a full-blown diagnosis of your electrical system. If so, read Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219438

Awesome txgreasemonkey I will try all this and let you know how it went. Thanks for the help!

One more note. I noticed that the power in the vehicle does not go on when the key is in the aux (not sure what it is called) position. You know, turned but not all the way. Just enough to power the inside. I normally can roll down the windows when its in this position and now I can't I have to turn the key to the point just before the car starts and I can roll down the windows. Not sure if this changes any of your previous diagnosis.

Thanks again.

That makes it sound even more like the ignition switch is bad.

So should I replace the Ignition Switch and the ICM? Or if the car starts after the Ignition Switch is replaced then don't worry about the ICM? I had to order the switch, should be in by 9/4. Thanks again.

It was the ignition switch. All works fine now. Thanks again txgreasemonkey.

Good job.