I've searched these forums and found similar questions, but thought I'd just start from scratch. In our basement, we have the standard utility room with our HE furnace and water heater. The problem is, there is no floor drain in the room. Right behind the utility room there is a bathroom with shower and I know the bathroom was not done to code (by a previous owner) and I'm thinking they turned the previous floor drain into the shower drain. The furnace and AC unit are both new and they did a work around to be able to drain them, but my concern is if the water heater goes out, it has no where to drain. Is there any feasible way to get a drain in this room or some other alternative that won't cost me an exorbitant amount of money? I'm posting a picture of the utility room for a visual and you can see the backside of the shower stall in the upper right hand corner, to the right of the water heater. The copper line running around the water heater is what they set up drain the furnace/ac. Thanks for any advice you can offer!
http://troesters.com/images/utilityroom.jpg

The revruss...

In this case I would recommend that you purchase and install an automatic water heater shut off valve.

Here, you cut shutoff into cold water supply then you place the sensor on the floor (preferably in a water heater pan... ;)... ) and then if water is sensed water flow is shut off 100% until someone arrives to replace heater or turn it back on if say only the relief valve malfunctions!! Only costs about $100.00 for this.

Click on this link for more information:

Flood Stop Water Heater Auto Shut Off Valve 3/4 NPT - FloodStop Systems

Let me know what you think...

MARK

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

The revruss...

In this case I would recommend that you purchase and install an automatic water heater shut off valve.

Here, you cut shutoff into cold water supply then you place the sensor on the floor (preferably in a water heater pan...;)...) and then if water is sensed water flow is shut off 100% until someone arrives to replace heater or turn it back on if say only the relief valve malfunctions!!. Only costs about $100.00 for this.

Click on this link for more information:

Flood Stop Water Heater Auto Shut Off Valve 3/4 NPT - FloodStop Systems

Let me know what you think...

MARK

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Hey Mark,

Thanks so much for the info. I didn't even know such a vale existed. When we replace the water heater, I will certainly add one of these valves. In fact (and my being a first time home owner will shine through here) it didn't even occur to me that in the event of a break, the water would keep spilling out! I was just concerned about the water in the tank itself.

Speaking of which, should trying to manage that water in the tank itself be a big concern should it malfunction? Any thoughts there.

Thanks again for the recommendation. I really appreciate it!

Hi again...

The water in the tank can be an issue if heater just lets go all at once..but for most issues there is usually small leaking first...why the auto. shutoff is good here.

Otherwise, if really concerned, can install a small sump pump in the floor (in a perforated 5 gallon bucket in ground) to side of heater with foam glued to floor to direct flow into pit if heater should go could be an answer to guarantee no damage to finished basement. The sump can be pumped to outside as needed.

Let me know what you think...

MARK

My solution's less expensive then Marks. Back in the 80's we installed heater pans,(see image) in all our new construction. These were piped outside with 3/4 PVC. If you're near a outside wall this is will be simple to install. Other wise Marks solution would be worth your time to consider. Nowadays we don't see water heaters burst too many boiler welds but every once in a while one will spring a leak at the inlet or out let connections and water vwill leak out onto the floor. Good luck, tom

Mark & Tom,

Thank you both for your insight and suggestions. I realize perhaps I'm being a little paranoid, but 5 days after we moved into this house we discovered that an outside faucet had burst in a previous winter and when I went to use it, hosed down our living room and did some damage in the basement as well, so you can understand I'm a little leery of plumbing issues and I know this water heater is on it's last leg. At any rate, thank you again for your suggestions - either one seems like a better alternative to trying to tear up the concrete and put in a drain.

On a somewhat related note, I'd be curious to know your opinions on tankless water heaters (though I suppose that's not totally on target with this thread).

Thanks again,

Russ

Hi Russ...

My opinion on these newer tankless heaters (wall hung type) is that they are still a little unreliable in terms of maintaining temperature, and they are tankless but they still have connections and these connections can break down as quickly as any other plumbing connections and can flood a basement just as quickly as a regular water heater if no automatic shutoff is present... so I'm not buying into them quite yet.

Further, the price to make the change out might surprise you depending on which size tankless system you choose... probably over 2 times the cost of just replacing the water heater and adding the auto. Shutoff with pan... ;)

Have good day!

MARK

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I know this water heater is on it's last leg.

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I'd be interested in knowing just how you can tell your heater is
"on its last legs". How old is it? Do you flush it on a regular maintenance schedule? The reason Iask is because I have a built in counter top heater that was installed when the house was built that's still operating just peachy.
My house was built in 1954 so that means 54 years of continuous service.
I attribute the long life to the fact that I power flush the heater every month to remove and minerals that are building up in the boiler. If you would like instructions how to flush your heater click on back and I'll be happy to send them. Regards, Tom

Mark,

Thanks for the insight. From the little research I had done, I recognized the cost of the tankless system itself would be more but didn't realize the install cost would be so high. When I go to switch out, I'll stick with the "traditional" kind.

Tom,

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I'd be interested in knowing just how you can tell your heater is
"on its last legs". How old is it? Do you flush it on a regular maintenance schedule?

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Here my ignorance will shine through again. I'm simply taking the word of the home inspector and the plumber who did the repair work after our little mishap. We've only owned this home for about 2 months now so I have no idea what kind of maintenance has been done on the water heater nor do I really know how old it is :confused: (there's a sticker for the tank warranty that says it expired in 09/1992 - don't most water heaters have a 6 or 12 year warranty?). Below is a picture of the sticker - if that'll help.

It doesn't smell of gas and it does seem to keep up pretty well with our hot water demand, but the other day we ran out of hot water during a shower and we hadn't used hot water for anything else but a little bit of cleaning in the kitchen. Also, as it's heating water it makes loud "popping" and "cracking" sounds - but maybe that's normal.

I'd appreciate the directions on how to flush the water heater. I can only imagine the mineral build up that's in there.

Thanks again guys!

http://troesters.com/images/waterheater.jpg

Looks like your heater was manufactured in 1991. Shipped out of Chicago,( do you live in the area?)Sears farms out their stuff so I can't tell you the manufacture but I'm a great believer in, If it ain't broke don't fix it!!

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as it's heating water it makes loud "popping" and "cracking" sounds - but maybe that's normal.

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Oh no it's not! If you do not flush,(not drain) your heater on a regular basis it will build up mineral on the bottom of the tank. When the flame comes on it turns the water trapped under the mineral to steam and the steam escaping is what you hear. Let me show you how to flush your heater. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) and some white grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). The whole thing shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. You might want to consider cleaning the screens on your aerators if you have a high mineral buildup. If the problem still persists after you have flushed, you will have to drain the heater, remove the boiler drain and go up in the bottom of the tank with a wood or plastic rod, (not metal) and try to break up the mineral and flush it out. Good luck,