Hi folks!
I have a 1999 Honda Civic LX (129,491 mi), recently, the car began dying while driving or stationary. This situation, or "spell" as I call it, first arose in July 2008 and after discovering the battery was dead, it was replaced and it seemed the problem was solved.
HOWEVER
This problem has began again. The occurrences are random, no warning signs, unless you count the actual "dying" instances. The are only 2 common patterns: 1) seems to only occur on hot days 2) once a spell begins, the interval between occurrences becomes more frequent until it dies and is unable to be revived.

I have driven & owned this car for 5 years and have never experienced this problem before.
Here's a brief history of car maintenance & repair
-- This car has no history of electronic malfunction (at least for my ownership)
-- timing belt replaced and transmission rebuilt @ 90,000
-- new battery (07/2008)
-- oil changes and other maintenance performed regularly

I am a single mom & full time college student, a car is everything to me at the moment.
Is there anyone able to offer some advice, please? Any help is very much appreciated!

Thanks and Godbless,
Kitketfraulein

It sounds like you are experiencing a classic problem with Hondas; i.e. PGM-FI Main Relay failure. Over time, cold solder joints develop in the main relay's printed circuit board (PCB). During hot weather, a PCB joint opens and the relay fails to work properly and the engine stalls. The main relay on your Civic is located right of the glove box, along the right kick panel. Here's what the main relay looks like and costs:

AutoZone.com | Shopping | Parts | Product Detail - Relay - EFI Main

Turning the ignition key on and off should help you locate it by listening for and feeling it "click."

If the problem persists, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

These are the three most problematic components on Hondas that cause engine stall. I recommend that they be changed every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Here are some preventive maintenance tips for your Civic, which should help a single mom and full-time college student avoid big unexpected repair bills:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

Thanks for the info/help TXGREASEMONKEY! After reading all the info you gave me: 'Turning the ignition key on and off should help you locate it by listening for and feeling it "click."'

On the times the car doesn't start or stalls, there is NO click sound nor feeling. The first spell occurring in July, there was a click, but not this time around. Does this mean I should replace the whole shebang -- main relay, ignition control module, coils? Or is this a bigger problem (already)?

And all the "how-to" descriptions you give, I am planning on printing ALL of that out just for keeps and for reference to, 1) would you mind me doing this and 2) is that info I can buy preprinted like in an auto repair manual?

Thanks again for you help!
Kitketfraulein

I would begin by replacing the main relay and see if that solves the problem. Once you locate the main relay, it should only take a few minutes to remove and replace it. If it doesn't, then move on and replace the ICM and coil. In the long run, it's very important to replace the ICM and coil to maintain "like new" reliability and performance.

Feel free to print out whatever you need, since I wrote the material. Much of this information you won't find in repair manuals. Be sure to also print and save Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post219438a

Important: When you turn the ignition key to ON (Position II), does the check engine light come on for 2 seconds and then go off?

Yes, when I turn the ignition to "on" the check engine light comes on for 2-3 seconds and it does turn off.

I went to autozone today -- yes, they do free ICM checks, but you have to bring the ICM in the store because their machine isn't mobile -- therefore, I was unable to get that checked.
The employee also did not run a diagnostic test because he said no codes would be received since the check engine light is not on while the car is operating.

I was referred to a local mechanic who works only on Honda vehicles. Put a call in(by request of parents) to see if they can confirm what the prob is -- no work being done.

K

I have had several people test ICMs on the Well's Machine at AutoZone, which tested O.K. and still did not work. They later installed a new ICM and the vehicle fired right up. Personally, I would replace the main relay, ICM, and coil--again, these are problematic components on Hondas. This is particularly true on Civics that have over 120,000 miles. If your car stalls in traffic and you have to have it towed, particularly in bad weather, you will wish you had replaced them. It's important to maintain the integrity of the basic ignition system. This is the ideal time to also replace the rotor and distributor cap. You know your finances and do what you can. Do a search on this site and see the number of ICMs that have caused problems. The odds are high replacing these components will solve your problem.

I have a 99 civic doing the same thing. Replaced the ignition switch, fuel filter, rotor, and distributor cap. Hoping this works or Im going to take your advise and keep replacing... the car is stalling in traffic now. :(

This may help, jeb2113.

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) and Coil Replacement

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing these critical and problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.


1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.


Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps, generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the trigger signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor controls when the ICM "switches off" current to the ground wire of the primary coil, causing amperage to go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is "stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely when needed to fire each spark plug.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils take a beating.

Note: Distributor cap contacts can oxidize or corrode, creating high secondary resistance, which can result in rotor and ICM failure, reduced mileage, CEL coming on, catalytic converter failure, or failed emissions test. The secondary ignition system will destroy the ICM and coil, if you do not properly maintain the ignition system. This means replacing the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires every 60,000 miles.

WARNING: Intermittent ICM failure can allow fuel to build-up in the exhaust system. Detonation can then blow the exhaust system off the vehicle.