Ask Me Help Desk - Maytag Dryer runs but no heat

Our Maytag Dryer (model # LDE482, series 05) runs but there is no heat. It was heating a few days ago, but today there is no heat coming from the vent inside. The lint screen is constantly cleaned, and the vent to the outside is clear (visually speaking). Could it be the heating coil has gone out? What's the easiest (and cheapest) way to check and/or replace?

Thanks.

Easiest way to to check element for continuity. If you have no meter, remove element and visually check for a break in the wire coil

Hello brownbear

Quote:

Our Maytag Dryer runs but there is no heat...
What's the easiest (and cheapest) way to check and/or replace?

Possible causes :
1 - Every heating element is protected by a thermal switch. That may be the problem.
2 - The heating element itself is faulty.
3 - There is another reason (for instance time switch, or duty cycle switch).

Without a multimeter it is difficult to check what the problem is.
Borrow from a friend, or buy the cheapest available multimeter in the nearest electronic parts or repair shop (Radio Shack or other).
All you require to test are :
- AC voltages range 110-250 volt range.
- Resistance (the Ohm range).

If you buy one : the cost should be around $ 15 - $ 25. Do not measure mains voltages in any other mode than AC in the range appropriate to the voltage you want to measure.
Always CHECK if your meter is in the proper range BEFORE actual measurement.

The resistance (Ohm) measurement is to test continuity (for instance if the element is still in good working order). But always - and before you do that - make sure that the machine is no longer connected to the mains. Security first!
Also better to measure anything for continuity with at least all wiring disconnected at one of the two connecting points.

As to actual testing : switch the dryer to "on" and "heating". Wait till the machine runs. Than switch your multimeter to AC voltages. Then measure on the connection points of the element. Depending the type of dryer you should measure either 110 Volt (AC) or 220 Volt (AC).
If you don't, the problem is most probably with the thermal swictch.
If you measure the proper voltage, The heater element is faulty and has to be replaced.
Disconnect the wires (first make a small drawing indicating which wire goes where)
Remove the mounting screws, and take the heating element out for replacement.

If there was no power : look near the heating element : there has to be there a heat sensitive switch (the thermal switch).
Now FIRST disconnect the dryer from the mains. Than disconnect all wires from one side of the switch. (drawing!! )
Set the multimeter to Resistance (Ohm).
Than measure across the switch : the resistance should be less than 1 Ohm. If you do not measure anything, the switch is faulty and has to be replaced.

If it is neither the heating element nor the thermal switch, just contact me by private mail (click on my name and follow instructions), and I'll advice you further here.

Success !

:)

Do the simple thing first, check the fuses

Check the fuse box for dryer. One of the fusestats is probably bad. Breeaker may blown also, depending on type of protection is in your panel (big fuse/breaker box)

Brownbear - I agree with Samct79-ok, One thing is that a 220 dryer has parts of it that will run on 110 volts, the heating element is run on 220, So if one screw in fuse is blown
Then you only have 110 going to your dryer:: if you have a panel with breakers then it should be a double breaker ,I have seen one side of a double fail, SO THAT IS THE EASIEST THING TO CHECK FIRST <GO TO Lowe's OR HOME DEPOT A METER WILL BE LESS THEREALSO . TO CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE 220 VOLTS AT THE DRYER PLUG IN TEST WITH THE METER <SET METER ON @@) VOLTS IF IT ONLY GOES HALF WAY ACROSS THE METER TO 220 THEN YOU ONLY HAVE 110 comeing in to the dryer. ( NOTE -THE NEedle on the meter BROWNBEAR- to check the heating element ; #1 - TURN OFF ALL POWER TO THE DRYER< PULL THE POWER CORD OUT OF THE RECEPTICAL: #2- REmove the back panel off the dryer, Now you can get to it , TO TYEST heater for open circuit:: Disconnect the leads( WIRES) from the heater now set your meter toRX1 OHMS SCALE ,touch one of the meter probs to each terminal if meter reads between 8 and 20 ohms the heater is good if it reads higher then the heater is defective ; #3TO TEST heater for grounding - With the leads still disconnected -touch one prob to the one terminal on the heater and touch the other prob to the duct IF meter reads high it is OK ,if it swings toward the low it is defectiv ( GROUNDED) #4 - lets remove the heating coil now - TO REMOVE THE HEATER DUCT - Take out the duct retaining screws ,You may have to lift the top of the dryer to get to the top screw , REMOVE the duct then remove the screw that holds the coil inside the duct, pull the heating coil out of the duct WHEN REPLACEING THE HEATING COIL BE CAREFUL NOT TO BEND THE HEATING COILS TO WHERE THEY TOUCH THE DUCT AND GROUNDS IT OUT ;; REplace in reverse manner#5 - Lets test the HEAT PROTECTORS WHILE IT STILL OUT OF THE CABINET< TO TEST THEM DISCONNECT ONE OF THE LEADS (WIRES ) Touch the probs from the meter to eachof the terminals : If the meter reads ZERO <OHMS <the protector is good if it reads high then it is faulty and needs replaced :: Do in reverse on putting it back togreather . Remember to hook up ALL THE WIRES YOU TOOK LOOSE ( the only THING THAT IS LEFT THAT COULD BE THE CAUSE IS THE :: defective timer or defective thermostat and if you have to test them <you wil:l have to take and remove the control panel : when it is removed then (iHOPE THE POWEER CORD IS STILL UNPLUGGED ; ) to test the thermostat_ disconnect both the leads to the thermostat <now touch one probto each of the terminals < turn thermostat to any setting except ( fluff dry ) if the meter reads zero < thermostat is good if the meter reads high it is defective -replace, next LETS TEST THE START SWITCH ;; disconnect THE HEAVY WIRES comeing to it , touch the meter probs <one to each terminal < AND IF THE READING ON THE METER IS ZERO OHMS WHEN THE START SWITCH IS PRESSED SWITCH IS OK IF A HIGH READING THEN IT IS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDS REPLACED, NOW LETS TEST THE TIMER SWITCH :: DISconnect one of the leads comeing to it , TOUCH THE Meter probs ,one to each of the timer terminals , TURN TIMER KNOB TO NORMAL DRY < IF THE METER READS ZERO OHMS IT IS GOOD <IF IT READS HIGH IT IS DEFECTIVE ::REPLACE , WHEN YOU PLUG THE POWER CORD BACK IN THE RECEPTICAL AND TURN THE DRYER ON IT SHOULD RUN LIKE A NEW SINGER SEWING MACHINE ::
I HOPE THIS HAS HELPED YOU OUT < IF NOT COME BACK ON AND REPOST ON THIS POST :: GOOD LUCK AND GOD BLESS F.B.E. Ps - YOU Don't NEED ANY POWER ON There DRYER WHILE DOING ALL OF THESE TESTS . HELLO DOUG HOPE YOUER DOING OK :: F.B.E.

The question stated clearly :

"Our Maytag Dryer (model # LDE482, series 05) runs but there is no heat. "

That means that there is electricity, and that no fuse is blown.
So the problem has to be inside the dryer.
And as I already stated these are the possible causes :

1 - Every heating element is protected by a thermal switch. That may be the problem.
2 - The heating element itself is faulty.
3 - There is another reason (for instance time switch, or duty cycle switch).

:)

Credendovidis - There are 7 different reasons of why a dryer will come on and the drum to rotate ,but will not heat::
#1- No power at the wall outlet, #2 - clogged lint screen:: #3 - Faulty thermostat:: #4- Def
Ective Timer:: #5 - Faulty overheat protector
ON ELECT.DRYERS;; #6 - Defective heater ( COULD BE A -Grounded heater, a broken heating coil, )A open circuit. #7 - DEfective
CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH:: A dryer requires 220VOLTS to operate except the items on the dryer that ONLY REQUIRE 110 VOLTS< like the dryer will run on 110VOLTS because the motor that drives the drum is only! 0VOLTS :: NOw the HEATING ELEMENT is difgferent it requires 220 VOLTS TO OPERATE,( IF} - they only have 110 volts comeing to the dryer then it will run -BUT THE HEATING COIL WILL NOT OPERATE, :: I have always foun that most of the time it was the heating coil that was the cause of their trouble:: THE REASON for only having 110 could be from a wire burnt off inside the receptical or a wire in the power cord is broken or burnt into and the unit is only getting 110 VOLTS, OR LIKE WE HAVE SAID ABOUT THE BREAKER OR SCREW IN FUSE IN THE MAIN POWER PANEL
GOOD LUCK TO THEM <I HOPE THEY FIND THE TROUBLE AND GET IT FIXED< HAVE A GOOD DAY AND GOD BLESS ::F.B.E.

Hey... was wondering if you got this fixed? And what it was, sounds like the same problem I have having with mine, same model!:confused:

Hello, could anyone tell me if this problem was very expensive to fix? We are having the same problem with our Maytag 3000 series dryer but I don't know how to do those things to fix it and will have to hire someone to come and repair it.

To flying blue eagle:
Just read your post from 2008 and you are a life saver. Everything on dryer working except heat so I disregarded power source as problem. I had checked all the internal parts I could locate without completely dismantling the thing and no trouble found. I found your post about motor runs on 110v, heating element needs 220v, checked the wall outlet and guess what? I reset the tripped breaker and all is well. Thanks a ton.