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-   -   New switch, possibly faulty? (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=251358)

  • Aug 21, 2008, 08:09 AM
    stevobyrnzie
    New switch, possibly faulty?
    I have a double light switch (both Single Pole) which went bad... I picked up a new switch which looks to be the same (2 hot terminals, 2 neutral)... I hooked everything up the same way as the old switch (which also had 2 hot, 2 neutral lined up the same).. Now the switch turns on both lights at the same time. Could this be a faulty switch?
  • Aug 21, 2008, 09:49 AM
    stanfortyman
    Switches DO NOT have "hot" and "neutral" terminals. In fact, most typical switches only have two or three screws (besides the ground). The only ones with four terminals would be a 4-way switch or a double pole switch.
    You probably have the wrong switch.
  • Aug 21, 2008, 11:18 AM
    stevobyrnzie
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by stevobyrnzie
    I have a double light switch (both Single Pole) which went bad...I picked up a new switch which looks to be the exact same (2 hot terminals, 2 neutral)....I hooked everything up the same exact way as the old switch (which also had 2 hot, 2 neutral lined up the same)..Now the switch turns on both lights at the same time. could this be a faulty switch?

    I definitely see 4 screws and each switch is designated for one light only, and there is no other location where you can turn the light on or off. Someone mentioned that there might be a little metal tab on the switch which could be looping the power... He said to remove that tab.. I haven't had a chance to look at the switch yet, but have you ever heard of such a thing?
  • Aug 21, 2008, 12:15 PM
    stanfortyman
    No, not really. Any chance you can post a pic of the switch?
    Even a Mfg and part number would be good.
  • Aug 21, 2008, 12:36 PM
    lmangileri
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by stevobyrnzie
    I definitely see 4 screws and each switch is designated for one light only, and there is no other location where you can turn the light on or off. Someone mentioned that there might be a little metal tab on the switch which could be looping the power...He said to remove that tab..I havent had a chance to look at the switch yet, but have you ever heard of such a thing?

    I've seen that tab on outlets. I haven't seen it on switches.
  • Aug 21, 2008, 12:46 PM
    stevobyrnzie
    1 Attachment(s)
    I drew a quick sketch on CAD (good thing I stayed awake in that course)... showing how the previous switch was hooked up and how the new switch is hooked up... the metal tab I speak of is located between the two brown screws
  • Aug 21, 2008, 01:25 PM
    stanfortyman
    Ohhhhhhh. A "double switch". I see now. I thought you meant two switches in one box.
    SORRY!


    If the red wire is the input wire then you have in one the wrong side. The side with the little jumper tab is the line side. The two separate screws are the two switched sides.

    I am concerned though why you have a white wire as a switched hot. This should not be.
  • Aug 21, 2008, 02:12 PM
    stevobyrnzie
    1 Attachment(s)
    This is the exact switch... What boggles my mind is that I hooked it up the same way as the previous switch, and I know for a fact that both toggle switches are single pole... the way the switch acts is very odd because I can switch the bottom switch and both lights go on, or I can switch the top switch and both lights go on... This is why I am thinking that the Jumper Tab is completing both circuits when One toggle is triggered... As for the coloring of the wires, I am afraid that since this house was built in the 40's (chicago) that the electrician was not too concerned with the colors... (by the way I appreciate your help)
  • Aug 21, 2008, 03:13 PM
    Stratmando
    The Hot needs to go to the side with the tab intact, You need to install upside down, then orient as desired.
    In your picture, it shows the Tab on the left side, it should be connected to the red.
  • Aug 21, 2008, 03:15 PM
    stanfortyman
    The new switch may have the screws on the opposite sides. They will work the same, but may not be made the same.

    4-way switches are notorious for this same thing.
  • Aug 21, 2008, 07:53 PM
    stanfortyman
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hkstroud
    Stan, He for got to break the tab on the"input" side. Bet you a cup of coffee.

    But if there is only one feed the tab needs to remain.

    I'd love to see a pic of the actual box and wiring. :cool:
  • Aug 21, 2008, 08:25 PM
    hkstroud
    Yes , that's why I deleated when I saw that the red was continoious and not part of two switch legs. I wonder where the neutral is. War was on in 1940s, bet wire was sky high and you short cutted any way you could.
  • Aug 21, 2008, 08:27 PM
    stanfortyman
    I guess I should give it some time before replying, huh? :p :D
  • Aug 21, 2008, 09:06 PM
    hkstroud
    Or may I should double and tripple check before I post.

    You got to screw up every once and a while.
  • Aug 22, 2008, 07:18 AM
    stevobyrnzie
    Hkstroud & Stan... First off, Thanks for you input/help... Stan, looks like you owe HK a cup of coffee... I broke the tab off and now everything works perfect... Why the hell do they include that tab?. Is that just so you can turn on turn fixtures with one switch? (then why would you need 2 switches)... anywho glad that's over, that was driving me mad... thanks again
  • Aug 22, 2008, 11:20 AM
    Stratmando
    Thre red(hot) was to got to the side with the tab intact(or a jumper,if tab removed), the other 2 wires go to the other 2 screws.
    You could break the tab off 1 switched leg on 1 circuit and other switchleg was on another circuit.

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