So, I know that you can use an end reducer to transition the laminate to carpet - but my question is if you can do the transition with a tack strip (for the carpet) only.

a.) Will the carpet fray too much if it isn't covered w/ an end reducer?

b.) Will the will the last line of laminate flooring stay flat without the reducer?

I have a run of about 10 feet I have to transition: if no one has an answer for the above, is there a way to get a contiuous piece of end reducer - I've only seen 6' sections at the store.

Thanks
-Ax

The transition piece for the flooring does more than just look good. A floating floor expands and contracts with the temperature and humidity. The transition strip is designed to cover the flooring and hide the movement of the floor under the strip. I would be willing to bet that the 6' lengths of the strips are governed by shipping costs and regulations as much as anything else.

Try cutting the ends at a 45 degree angle to create a larger gluing surface and then glue and clamp the pieces together. Use strips of wood across the top, face and bottom of the strips to hold them evenly together and apply the clamps to these strips of wood so that you will not mark your transition strip. When you attach your aluminum strips to the floor, make sure that the joint between these strips do not fall near your glue joint. This will help to keep your glue joint secure. Use the colored wood putty for your flooring to hide and blend the glue joint.

You can then place a tack strip for the carpet along the transition and then tuck the carpet edge down between the transition and tack strip to finish it off.

I may be a computer geek but I love to DIY it.

OK,

I'm posting a link to a site that tries to explain the transition from carpet to laminate - see how there is no transition piece - it just butts straight up to the carpet - I think this looks stellar, and I wouldn't have to pay $30 per 6' of transition moulding.

Finish off quarter round molding/post photo? - Topic Powered by eve community

Let me know what you think- I can't quite figure out what this guy is saying here by "tucking the carpet under"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...on%20Pix/i.jpg

What is the exact length your trying to transition shaw flooring carries transition bars in 7' 10" lenghts try their website or Google shaw and laminate flooring. Now as far as what you have already id there tack strip along te laminate edge now ? Is the carpet already tucked between the laminate and a piece of tack strip? If so you may get away with it as is for a while. My biggest concern would be with the laminate not the carpet. The laminate might try to shift over time carpet can be restrectched laminate if damaged will be replaced. Post back and let me know how your carpet is fastened now Ill see what I can come up with in the mean time GOOD LUCK, AC

The install looks pretty good to me. You don't have to solve your problem yet. You don't even know yet whether you have a problem. :)

The tack strip should hold the carpet in place. The laminated floor should be able to expand against the carpet.

Fraying might be a problem. You could carefully apply white glue to the carpet pile where it meets the backing at the cut edge. This is only to lock in the "stray" fibers at the cut edge.

If there is a problem later on, you can deal with it then. A good mill-work shop could contrive a nice transition for you should you need it eventually.

How close would you put the tack srip to the laminate - butted up, or w/ some space?

Is that going to hurt your feet at all walking on the tack strip?

Axelworks...

Keep carpet tack about 1/4" to 3/8" off the laminate flooring.

The padding under the carpet makes it so that the tack strip nails only embed the jute backing of the rug... so stepping on tack strip should not hurt your feet.

Renting an electric upholstry stapler (usually comes with staples) and adding some staples through carpet and into the tack strip will assure you that this will not come loose over time... ;)

I think this will work very well for you!

Good luck...

MARK

Axel mark is dead on about the tack strip and the stapler if you use the measurement mark gave between the laminate and the tack strip you should be okay. The only thing I will add to marks post if you have a thin carpet then you might find the tack strip a nuisance to bare feet if this happens simply tap on top of the carpet along the tack strip this will bend the tacks over a little more and should take care of it. Space the satples about every two inches apholstery tackers work fine but they also make one specifically for carpeting floors so just whatever is available. If the carpet and laminate are flush in height then you shouldn't have any movement in the laminate(beyond normal expansion and contraction) GOOD LUCK, AC

I'm getting excited to make this happen

What type of glue exactly are we talking about here?

Axelworks... my opinion now... but if you use a sharp double sided carpet blade and knife (see pictures) and you tuck the edge properly then you really shouldn't need to glue the edge.

I know what WWpierre is talking about here... but if use sharp blade and tuck tight it should minimize any fraying in this case.

As this knife blade is double-sided it is one of the most dangerous knives I have ever worked with so please be very careful when using it!

I also attached a picture of an electric upholstry stapler.. this is what professional carpet installers use to staple edges and work on stairway carpeting/upholstry work... rent it with staples... you won't regret!

Good luck with this...

MARK

Yep mark nails it again be careful with those carpet they cut skin really well and just like mark said if cut slean tuck properly no glue needed. You might find you need to hold down the laminate as you tuck to keep the stair tool which is best to tuck with from trying to get under it. Here is a pic of a stair tool you can pic up at most any home center or carpet supplier you may also be able to rent from local rental shop. GOOD LUCK, AC

How >do I transition a laminate floor to carpet on a concrete floor?

Use Liquid nails under tack strips, nail into place. Wait about a week for Liquid Nails to dry before kicking carpet into place.

I've actually installed for a few years. First problem is he's using laminate aka floating floor, it may expand and contract but its not stapled to the sub-floor so tucking wouldn't last long, if it was hard wood then it would work fine. Second, the transition your looking for isn't going to be found at your local home depot. Look at your local carpet stores, carpet one, sherwin williams(yea they install carpet not just paint), etc. The transition comes in twelve foot lengths and its called T molding. You simply install a track and the t molding is hammered down with a soft rubber mallet. After you install your track you first want lay down tack strip about a 1/4" away from the track, stretch and tuck then hammer down your t molding

I've actually installed for a few years. First problem is he's using laminate aka floating floor, it may expand and contract but its not stapled to the sub-floor so tucking wouldn't last long, if it was hard wood then it would work fine. Second, the transition your looking for isn't going to be found at your local home depot. Look at your local carpet stores, carpet one, sherwin williams(yea they install carpet not just paint), etc. The transition comes in twelve foot lengths and its called T molding. You simply install a track and the t molding is hammered down with a soft rubber mallet. After you install your track you first want lay down tack strip about a 1/4" away from the track, stretch and tuck then hammer down your t molding