We use to run at 70-80 psi. but the water authority recently change some valve in the street and now our PSI has skyrocketed to 130psi! (I know this because we have a sprinkler system with a pressure meter). It has already caused one leak where the toilet connects (I fixed it last night.. but still have the ruin ceiling below to deal with! ) but I am worried about more potential leaks with that much psi. we don't have a regulator because the house is over 100 years old but the piping was updated in 98 or 99 to all copper. I called them an they basically told me they could care less... even though they caused it! Grrrrr!

Anyway... what kind of psi can a typical system handle? Should I be panicking??

Thank you

I would shut down my main right now and then head for the nearest store to buy a pressure releif valve (PRV). You should bring your interior domestic water pressure to below 50 psi. The city uses gavity to generate pressure in most situations. Water stored in a tall water tower is pulled by gravity creating the pressure. This can and will flucuate and the city is not obligated to regulate the pressure, you can via a PRV.

The range of normal residential water pressure is from 30 to 80 psi. Ideally, the pressure should be set between 45 and 60 pounds in most residential plumbing systems.If the pressure rises too high particularly above 80 psi, plumbing fixtures and appliances (primarily hot water heaters) could be damaged or leak excessively.

Your pressure is way high you need to install a water pressure regulator, and you need to get a water pressure gauge to check the pressure with, see the pictures,Good Luck.

John

Bb:

Pressure relief valve is the wrong term. Water would be spitting out everywhrere like when the PRV activates in a water heater.

Pressure reducing valve, duh, my bad. On the water heater we call that valve a T&P, temperature and pressure valve.

Keep,

Bob knows what is talking about he is an expert, is just the wording I a gree there is defeerence and theterm of PRV is wrong to for the water heater, it is T&P vave (Temp. and pressure Valve) regards,
John

Thank you very much everyone. I figured as much.

Sigh... just sucks. Everything was fine before they did this... now we have all this crap to deal with.

I tell you what.. they WILL be paying for this. They gave us 10 minutes notification of this. If we had know that the work they were doing would result in this much of an increase, we wouldve had this installed BEFORE they did it. 10 minutes isn't enough time.

Thanks again... I guess I'll be calling the plumber asap.
:(

You have to reduce pressure ASAP. Period. Kohler clamis that optimal working pressure in the house for their plumbing fixtures is 55 psi. Also, sprinklers should not have more than 90psi. Otherwise, "mysterious" leaks will be appearing in your house and garden.

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Originally Posted by StaticFX

We use to run at 70-80 psi. but the water authority recently change some valve in the street and now our PSI has skyrocketed to 130psi!! (I know this because we have a sprinkler system with a pressure meter). It has already caused one leak where the toilet connects (i fixed it last night.. but still have the ruin ceiling below to deal with!!) but I am worried about more potential leaks with that much psi. we dont have a regulator because the house is over 100 years old but the piping was updated in 98 or 99 to all copper. I called them an they basically told me they could care less... even though they caused it!! grrrrr!!

anyway... what kinda psi can a typical system handle?? should i be panicking???

Thank you

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The average house pressure is 45 PSI,( that's why water towers are 100 feet high). You need to install a PRV and pressure gage where the water enters your home. Set the new PRv valve at 45 or 50 PSI. If you're higher then 50 PSI adjust the PRV valve, (see image) to the desired pressure. Loosen the lock nut. For more pressure, turn the adjusting screw down ( clockwise ); For less pressure, turn the adjusting screw up ( counter clockwise ). Retighten the Lock Nut so the adjusting screw cannot turn on its own. Good luck, Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

The average house pressure is 45 PSI,( that's why water towers are 100 feet high). You need to install a PRV and pressure gage where the water enters your home. Set the new PRv valve at 45 or 50 PSI. If you're higher then 50 PSI adjust the PRV valve, (see image) to the desired pressure. Loosen the lock nut. For more pressure, turn the adjusting screw down ( clockwise ); For less pressure, turn the adjusting screw up ( counter clockwise ). Retighten the Lock Nut so the adjusting screw cannot turn on its own. Good luck, Tom

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Tom, would the PRV solve this problem if it's caused by thermal expansion form the water heater? I wonder if the valve that was installed by the water co. might have been a check valve. Just curious.

Thermal expansion will not raise water pressure to 130psi. If you have thermal expansion, install thermal expansion tank at the water heater, cold water side.

I agree with Milo that thermal expansion would not raise the water pressure to 130 psi, but the thermal expansion does affect the water pressure.
I think static problem is defiantly the high pressure and he understands, lets wait what the plumber has to say.

I was doing some research on the Thermal Expansion effect on the water system found the following, would like to share with you all, please click on the link. Good luck,

My best Regards,
Jon


Learn About - What is thermal expansion, selecting an expansion tank, Potable vs. Non-Potable systems.

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Tom, would the PRV solve this problem if it's caused by thermal expansion form the water heater? I wonder if the valve that was installed by the water co. might have been a check valve. Just curious.

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No! A expansion tank,(see image) is needed for thermal expansion.
If your sprinkler system runs off city water the city should have already forced you to install a check valve/ backflow preventer, (see image) This image shows everything in the basement. (Where do you live?) In my area of Florida we have no basements so the backflow preventer's installed next to the water meter outside near the curb but we install our PRV valves and expansion tanks inside. How you can tell if you have thermal expansion is when the T & P valve on the water heater kicks open. Another way is to wait until the gage reads 130 PSI and open a faucet. You will get a blast of pressure that quickly bleeds off to house pressure. I think they increased the street pressure and you'll need to install a PRV valve to bring it down. But I'm not there to see, you will have to be my eyes. Look out next to the water meter.
Is there a valve out there the city might have installed? Let me know. Tom

I doubt that this is caused by thermal expansion. If it was your pressure would drop to a normal 45 psi when you open a spigot or faucet and then take a long time to build back up. I doubt that it could reach 130 psi ever. Several of us think a PRV will take care of the issue.

Conventional Temperature & Pressure relieve valves will active when:

1. Pressure higher than 150 psi
2. When temperature reaches 210 F

99% of time it is the high pressure that makes T&P valve to leak.

Turn your thermostat dial on your w/h down to 125F. Make sure your house pressure is down to - not more than - 75 psi.. . and you will be fine...

I was doing some research on the Thermal Expansion effect on the water system found the following, would like to share with you all, please click on the link. Good luck,




Thanks for the link, it's a good read.

Is it OK to run higher PSI? I think we need to run around 70-75psi for the sprinkler system (not lawn sprinkler, but fire sprinkler)

I am in ny (western)

The water company did not install any valves, (it all runs underground) so the meter, etc is all inside my basement. I don't see an expansion valve anywhere... and I don't thing there is a backflow preventer. As far as the plumber? Well yeah.. never bothered to show up... nice.


Edit... wait. I didn't look by the hot water heater.. I don't think there is one but I will check.

Thanks!

75 PSI should be the limit. If you're concerned you could enter the system at 75 PSi on the sprinkler system to hold pressure and a install a PRV valve on the rest of the system to bring it down to a more acceptable level. Good luck, Tom

Fire sprinklers have nothing to do with it. Fire Sprinkler manifold is connected to your house plumbing system BEFORE regular water manifold directly from your water main. It should not have reduced water pressure at all.

So I should put the PRV after the sprinkler feed? (see image)