To seal the cracks on dry wall I applied the "dry wall" paste once, then sanded with thick grain sand paper, then I reaplied, and sanded with thiner grane paper, and I repeated this process one more time.

The paste is dry (for the past 3 weeks, in addition, it's been really hot weather wise)I applied paint yesterday, but I noticed this morning that I can see cracks where the seems are supposed to be.

It's not really bad, just 2 cracks in the whole room.

Thank you,
Toolbeltgirl

Did you use tape?

Drywall tape, that is. Paper tape is much easer to work with than cloth tape.

I recently repaired two cracks about a foot long, for the first time and used mesh tape. Results were fine, but I would have done things differently.

Thank you! I did in fact applied the drywall tape (plastic kind, with sticky back), then I applied the paste.

Should I reaply the take, the paste, sand and reaply the base paint? Thk u.

You might want to put some drywall screws in around the cracked area before redoing that, it sounds like it may be moving around if the crack keeps re-appearing after all that.

What exact paste did you use?
Let's see if you bought the right stuff first.

It should not show. The repair using mesh tape will need about 12" to either side to get the featheredge right because of the increased thickness.

It was suggested to me to indent the area somewhat with say by banging on 2 X 4 where the tape will sit into. The edges of panels are tapered, so you don't see the seams. This is why the indenting makes a lot of sense.

Remove it totally and switch to a paper tape. Mud must go on first in that case, apply the tape and sand. The last sand should be done wet with wet or dry paper for a smooth surface.

Someone on this board posted this link about drywall finishing:

Taping Drywall Step by Step Instructions - How To Tape Drywall

It's not the way the pros would do it, but I used these methods to finish 3 ceilings in my home. It was more work, but for a novice I'm thrilled with the results. Patience and practice is the key here.

Good luck.

When done properly little or no sanding is required to joint compound a wall. Toolbelt needs to answer the question posted by KISS, what did you use? I do this all the time and get great results from 3 applications of mud. The first application is a 45 minute dry compound using a 6" knife to set the fiberg lass mesh tape. One hour later a do a second coat with a 10" knife making sure I am perfectly flush with the wall surface and ignoring any bubbles or streaks. The final coat is a pre-mixed compound that air drys, it is feathered and worked so that I can get a perfect finish with a damp sponge after a few hours. I would get some additional screws into your joints since you do have some small movement.