Im finishing my basement, and need to install a shower/tub stall on a concrete slab. This is the exact model I am using: Tub/Showers, Bathtubs & Showers

Instructions for doing this, I find, are for installations over wood subfloors which has some dimensional lee-way with the positioning of the drain. In my case, and source of my confusion, is that my rough-in has a fixed drain pipe which is capped at about 6 inches height from the floor.

Since there is no flexibility with the drain pipe do I need to correlate the framing based upon the position of the drain? And what is the best methodology for doing this so that I don't put any pressure on any fittings by positioning it wrong? Also, what is an appropriate amount of length of the drain to meet the tub/shower stall?

Thanks a lot in advance for the help.

Is that fixed , capped pipe 1 1/2" or 2" ? Tubs usually have a dap out or box in the concrete, this may be a shower drain that is already trapped. If you pour water into the pipe can you see standing water down inside the pipe by using a flashilight?

The diameter of the pipe looks to be 2 1/4". ..and I can confirm that "box in the concrete". I'll have to saw the cap off the pipe. The cap appears to be glued on and impossible to remove by hand.

That is likely a 2" PVC pipe with a glued on cap. Go ahead and cut the pipe right below the cap, pour water and check to see if it stands. Tell me more deatils about what you mean by "and I can confirm that box in the concrete. "

I sawed off the cap. I poured water in and yes, it stands. In fact, there was some water in there already (stale smelling). The "box" is a 7"x10" wood frame around the pipe which is flush with the concrete floor. The pipe comes up through the frame, of which is encased by concrete, but probably 2 inches lower than the heighth of the floor.

Here's a couple of pics to help with what Im describing:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/100_2689.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/100_2690.jpg

The big guy on the left is your toilet rough in and the 2" is for a shower or a tub/shower. It is already trapped. Other than that I can't tell what the original plumber had in mind. What are the distances from the 2" pipe to each wall?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

The big guy on the left is your toilet rough in and the 2" is for a shower or a tub/shower. It is already trapped. Other than that I can't tell what the original plumber had in mind. What are the distances from the 2" pipe to each wall?

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2" pipe center to left wall: 37"
2" pipe center to right wall: 67"

I originally planned to jack hammer out about 2 feet to the left to accommodate the stall, but a brother in law convinced me to deal with the spacing I had and avoid demolition work. I think the plumber planned on this being a shower stall, but I didn't confirm because I was worried about other things.

I guess my question is, what comes first? Attaching the stall to the drain? Or framing it in. That and, how much drain length should I leave in order to meet the stall? You answered my other question that I had not asked yet... which was if this was a trapped drain or not. (thanks)

I have not done any Lasco's lately so the drain height question I must leave for others. The Lasco installation instructions should cover it. If it were a Swanstone pan the height would be 1 1/2" above the floor surface. You can put a shower and/or a shower/tub in a location roughed for a shower. You can not install a shower in a placed roughed for a tub only. Your 2" pipe tells me you are OK, shower and/or shower/tub is good.

The problem with the Lasco instructions is that they instruct to have the alcove built first, fit the stall to it, then fit the drain to it. It doesn't give recommendations for when the drain is in a fixed place, how to appropriate the alcove so that the stall and drain line up. I really can't find a 'how-to' anyplace on this. Im thinking I may have to just dig in and eyeball the drain positioning.

(engaging lateral thinking) How about putting the tub on a raised platform that allows enough room to work underneath it? Say 16" (two steps) Might be an interesting feature in the bathroom.

I think your brother-in-law had the best ideal: position tub on the drain and frame around it.

Install a NO-CALK shower strainer first (see picture below) then position the unit over the drain, then frame around like brother-in-law and Milo suggested... then lift unit up/out and install a bed or mortar or similar bedding material and then reset the unit, level front to back and side to side and then screw into place.

Then use an INSIDE PIPE CUTTER to cut the pipe down to the correct height after the rubber donut and clamping nut have been installed. Then tighten the nut over the rubber with tool provided with drain and you should be all set!

Let us know what you think...

MARK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Install a NO-CALK shower strainer first (see picture below) then position the unit over the drain, then frame around like brother-in-law and Milo suggested...then lift unit up/out and install a bed or mortar or similar bedding material and then reset the unit, level front to back and side to side and then screw into place.

Then use an INSIDE PIPE CUTTER to cut the pipe down to the correct height after the rubber donut and clamping nut have been installed. Then tighten the nut over the rubber with tool provided with drain and you should be all set!!

Let us know what you think...

MARK

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Fantastic idea. I'll give this a shot

PS... tie a long string onto the wrench provided with the drain just in case you drop it into the pipe AFTER you cut the pipe down to the proper height.

The wrench is in my picture above... directly below the strainer itself (rectangle metal part... that's the wrench).

Let us know how it goes!

MARK

Before you eye ball the drain you can call Lasco's customer service group via e-mail. LASCO Bathware | Technical Inquiries | The Nation's Largest Manufacturer of Bath Fixtures Mark's no caulk drain is almost identical to a Swanstone pan drain. I would definitely go with that.

Thanks to everyone for the help. My wife is in a wedding party and seems from tonight till next Sunday I'm only allowed to do wedding stuff. I'll report back probably next week on my luck with the stall.

Take a look at the caulkless drain Massplumber posted. The bottom 3 pieces are attached to the pan before installation and the top 3 go on after the pan is set. The black collar gets some plumbers grease inside and out and then slides down your PVC drain pipe sticking up. The rotatary cutter takes off the excess pipe. You can dry fit your tub and test the tolerances. You need to have your framing in first and can't attach the studs to the floor plate if you wait until after the tub is set. When setting a fiberglass tub or shower is is very important to use something like modified thinset to form a bed for the pan. I place about 30 baseball sized globs of mod thinset on the floor and then drop in the pan. Walk on it a bit and then allow the tub to set up for several days before using. This will help eliminate squeaks and creaking from the fiberglass flexing. Good luck. Bob