Got a real newbie question. I'm in the final stages of finishing my basement and am turning my attention to the bathroom. Our house is about 6 years old and we had the builder rough-in a 1/2 bath for us (so venting and stub are already present).

I have the closet flange just about ready to go in, but I'm getting cold feet before I start cutting and cementing, and would appreciate a "sanity check" from you before I go any further.

A little background... the stub is PVC and extends about 6 - 8 inches above the concrete floor. I have purchased one of those flanges with the movable ring around it (two "sliding" slots and four holes around the ring). Further, I'll be installing a laminate flooring that's about 9mm in thickness.

My plan:

Step 1. Drill holes into the concrete and insert tap-cons as the bolts.

Step 2. Using a special flexible saw, trim the stub so it's level with the flooring.

Step 3. Lay down the laminate flooring and trim it so that it butts up close to the stub (drilling holes for the tap-con bolts through the laminate boards).

Step 4. Cement the flange to the now-cut stub.

Step 5. Follow the rest of the toilet installation steps (install wax ring, level toilet, et al).


Now, my questions:

Q1. I think I have to trim down the tap-cons so that I am just able to tighten a nut down onto the flange ring. Is that a correct assumption?

Q2. As I have four holes in the flange ring, do I need to drill/put in four tap-cons, or are the two I'm planning on enough?

Q3. When I'm setting the closet flange, will the ring sit on top of the laminate flooring, or do I want them level (or as level as I can make it since the width of the ring is not quite the same as the flooring)?

Q4. Assuming Q2 has the ring on top, can/should the laminate go right up to the stub? Is there any reason why it shouldn't?


I think that's it. If anyone has any other thoughts or warnings, they'd be appreciated. Otherwise, keep your fingers crossed for me.

Thanks!

I am not familiar with the type of flange that you describe. Is there a reason you're not using a regular flange, (see image)?

Q1. I think I have to trim down the tap-cons so that I am just able to tighten a nut down onto the flange ring. Is that a correct assumption?

Q2. As I have four holes in the flange ring, do I need to drill/put in four tap-cons, or are the two I'm planning on enough?
As a rule we don't need to screw down the flange on a cement floor. We have to screw them down on a first or second floor toilet but the cement and gound cover will prevent the flange from pulling up.

Q3. When I'm setting the closet flange, will the ring sit on top of the laminate flooring, or do I want them level (or as level as I can make it since the width of the ring is not quite the same as the flooring)?

Q4. Assuming Q2 has the ring on top, can/should the laminate go right up to the stub? Is there any reason why it shouldn't?

You won't cut the stubup off until all the flooring is down and then the flange will set on top of the finished floor.
The plumber should have left a styrofoam closet wrapper wrapped around the stub-up. This wrapper leaves a space for the collar of the flange to recess into the cement so that it will set flat against the finished floor. If he didn't then one will have to be chiseled out. You must also leave a space when you install the finished floor.
Good luck, Tom

Wow -- thanks for the quick response Tom.

To answer your questions...

> I am not familiar with the type of flange that you describe. Is there a
> reason you're not using a regular flange?

The reason I'm using that flange is that I figured it'd be the most "forgiving" if I made a mistake in placing the bolts. I found a picture I can point to online... the only difference is the color of the ring:

http://castlewholesalers.com/products/55226.jpg

However, your answer to my second question, where we don't need to screw into the cement floor, sort of does away with that concern. Thanks :)


> The plumber should have left a styrofoam closet wrapper wrapped around
> the stub-up. This wrapper leaves a space for the collar of the flange to
> recess into the cement so that it will set flat against the finished floor. If
> he didn't then one will have to be chiseled out. You must also leave a
> space when you install the finished floor.

'Fraid the original plumber left me high & dry on this one. The cement comes all the way up to the stubup.

If I understand correctly, I will need to chisel out some of the concrete floor around the stubup, but only just enough so that the top of the flange will sit flush with the laminate flooring. Is that right? (I had thought that I could simply cut the flooring so it butts up around the stubup.)

Thanks again Tom -- you're saving me a lot of headache on this project!

'Fraid the original plumber left me high & dry on this one. The cement comes all the way up to the stubup."

That can sometimes look like there's no closet wrapper if the cement slopped over the wrapper. If this is the case all you'll have to do is take a screw driver and hammer and tap it down next to the pipe. If the wrapper's there the screrwdriver will go through the thin layer of cement into the styrofoam. If it isn't there then you must chisel a path around the pipe for the flange to recess into. Do the finished floor before you cut the pipe and set the flange. Don't forget to leave enough space between the finished floor and the pipe to allow the flange to set snug on the floor. Remember to prime all the pvc fittings that will receive PVC cement or you won't get a good joint. Good luck, Tom