I just purchased an home that was built well before plumbing. Apparently the waste line was installed before 4" became the standard, so my home has 5" cast iron which all of the professionals around here swear they've never seen before. The utility sink is connected after the y, by a "saddle clamp" and it is leaking at the connection. There is a bunch of cement mounded on this section so it's a little hard to see clearly. My question is where do I find a 5" saddle clamp either online or in the Philadelphia area? Also, I had three plumbers look at it and tell me that my waste line was leaking and I needed to replace the whole section, one told me the whole line was bad. The fourth plumber that looked at it ran the bathtub and there was no leak, only from the utility sink, so the logical conclusion is that the sink connection is leaking not the actual waste line, right? Is there a cheap, temporary fix? Also were the first three plumbers lying or could they honestly have not thought to check the toilet/bathtub? Thanks!

Your "professional plumbers" probably work with materials used in residential application. Your drains are what is used in commercial / industrial structures. Drains are sized according to demand. Unless you live in a White House-like-mansion with dozens of bathrooms - probability is that you'll never see 5" drain.

In residential construction, we usually don't go over 4" . However, in commercial and industrial plumbing installations, we quite often install larger diameter waste pipes. We go all the way to 12" in Cast Iron pipe. Of course, No-Hub couplings and variety of fittings come in these sizes as well.

Unfortunately, Home Depot or Lowe's doesn't sell this size of pipe and fittings. You will have to go to professional plumbing store like Ferguson Enterprises or Hirsh Pipe and Supply. Ferguson is all over USA and Hirsh sells all over the world. But even if they are not in your area, look them up on the web, call them and they will either direct you to their closest warehouse in your area or they will overnight to you what ever you need.

As far as your leak goes: Before you do anything, take 9/16" socket wrench and try to tighten up both s.s. crews on your leaking No-Hub coupling. If you are lucky, that will do...

Otherwise: It is pretty common that No-Hub fitting will start leaking, especially when it is old and / or you live in area with seismic activities. Remove it and install new one.

Advice: if the pipe is too close to the wall then unscrew both screws all the way until they are completely disengaged from rubber sleeve. Then grab it with channel locks and pull on it. It should slide out. Then, take drywall knife and cut the rubber sleeve. Use flat screwdriver to remove the rubber sleeve. Your old coupling is removed.

Now remove new rubber sleeve from your new coupling. Take long flat screwdriver and put it in gap between the fitting and pipe and try to pry it open a bit. Force-insert the new rubber sleeve into the gap. This will require some effort but it is doable. Squeeze one side of the coupling into the opening and work it across the pipe until it slips in. Once rubber coupling in, slide in s.s. bend in from one end, behind the pipe, and pull it through. Tighten up.

No-Hub couplings should be tighten with 9/16" socket wrench set to 60 lbs. If you don't have such a wrench than tighten up by hand as much as you can...

Hi Philly:

5" cast iron pipe was used residentially in my area for awhile (I remove it occssionally)... and like Milo said above, it can be purchased at a local plumbing supply house... so can a replacement 5" saddle and 5" no hub clamps or 5" shielded clamps (see pictures below).

I am assumming when you said a 5" SADDLE you meant a 5" saddle with clamps... yes? Some of these saddle clamps will fit 3-6" and only require that you clean the cast iron real well, apply rubber seal then clamp the saddle valve in place and should be all set. These are illegal in my area...but many homeowner's still use them.

Otherwise, could cut out the pie/fittings by renting a cast iron SNAP CUTTER (see picture below) and cut out defective connection and repipe using new materials and clamps (I prefer the 4 banded clamp).

Let us know what you think... ok?

MARK