Ask Me Help Desk - Roofing question

Hello - not sure if this is the right place to ask this question, but it's worth a try. We had a hail storm a few months back and, now that the snow is gone, a roofing contractor has finally been able to some inspect the roof. They say it has evidence of hail damage and gave me a quote. Basically, I need some knowledge about roofing so I know if I am getting a good job. What is important in a roofing job? They say they will replace the attic vents, plumbing stack, bath exhaust stacks, and furnace cap. They will put down 6 foot of ice/water shield (I believe 4 foot is code in mn). They are talking about 30# felt (is that good?) and 240# 25 yr shingles. Is this good? Could I get better (I know about 30 year shingles, and maybe more?) Is 30 and 240# a good rating? Oh yeah - and they are also talking about 24 inch pre-finished metal valleys. Is this good? Any help, or a reference to a good web sight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob

1. The first thing to do is make sure the contractor has been doing business in your area for at least 5 years. Typically "storm chasers" go round the country after hail storms and rip people off big time.

2. Do NOT let a contractor deal with your insurance company. Get your insurance adjuster out to give his own estimate - and have the ins co give you the check directly... THEN shop around for who will do the job.

3. Go with the 30year shingles.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickj

1. The first thing to do is make sure the contractor has been doing business in your area for at least 5 years. Typically "storm chasers" go round the country after hail storms and rip people off big time.

2. Do NOT let a contractor deal with your insurance company. Get your insurance adjuster out to give his own estimate - and have the ins co give you the check directly...THEN shop around for who will do the job.

3. Go with the 30year shingles.

We've had many storm chasers come to our door since the storm, and many of them tell you they will only work as the middle man between you and the inc company. Made me leary, so I did not hire any of them.

I will call my ins asjuster today and see what they think.

Thanks!

3 years ago easter we had marble and golf ball sized hail. The storm chasers swarmed the neighborhood with their crap.

They said they'd "take what the ins co paid".

I got 16k from the insurance company and had all the repairs done for 10k!

... and pocketed the 6k...

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickj

3 years ago easter we had marble and golf ball sized hail. The storm chasers swarmed the neighborhood with their crap.

They said they'd "take what the ins co paid".

I got 16k from the insurance company and had all the repairs done for 10k!

...and pocketed the 6k...

Wow! That's great. I did not realize they would cut you a check for more than you paid. I guess I fugured they would require you to show them the bill. I am just starting the process now - I'll keep your experience in mind!

Rob

We had a similar exp w siding damage... minor denting and paint loosening.

Insurance cut a check (dont remember amt... a couple thousand I think).

Well, I rented scaffolding for a couple hundred, bought a couple hundred in paint and supplies and simply repainted. It looked fine enough and we were selling anyway.

Some hopefully helpful answers to your questions. First I agree w/ rickj. Talk to your insr. Company first and use a 30 year shingle.

The shingles they are quoting you are standard shingles. 3 tab 240 lbs. The 240 lbs is pounds per "square". A roofing square is 100sqr ft of roof or 10'x10' area equals a square. 3 bundles of shingles equal a "square".
The ice and water shield comes in rolls 33' long by 3' wide. (1/3 of a square) If they quoted you 6' they're installing two rows of the barrier. That is overkill, but may be code or needed in your area.
The felt paper comes in 15lbs rolls and 30 lbs rolls. Personally I like to use 30lbs felt for a couple reasons. One being added protection between shingles and sheathing if shingle tear-off occurs.
As for the valleys, never been a fan of the "open valley" I like to weave the shingle through the valley or mostly do "cut valleys" These 2 ways protect the valley area from weather damage and leaking better than an open valley. (IMO)

Hope this helps.