I built a big brick BBQ 2 years ago and it has worked flawlessly. The BBQ has a dedicated circuit from the garage panel. There is a switch on top (of the counter) that controls an outlet behind the fridge for the rotisserie, and there is one outlet that has power for the fridge. I was required by code to replace the breaker to a 20 amp GFCI, as well as add a disconnect behind the fridge (kinda usless there but that's what the inspector wanted). After doing the mods the GFCI trips as soon as the disconnect is ON. (nothing is plugged in) When the disconnect is off, the breaker doesn't trip. I disconnected the switch for the rotisserie outlet and it still trips with just the single outlet connected to the circuit. (there are no gfi outlets in the line, just a duplex 20 amp that has the bar cut so it separates the 2 outlet hot wires, (so one can be switched). I have double checked all the wires, looking for obvious shorts, and all looks well. I also tried replacing the outlet with a new one, same problem. Also, is there a way to tell if the breaker is tripping due to load, or fault? When the test button is used there is a yellow indicator. When it trips, there is not. This is quite a simple circuit for it to be causing me so many headaches. I wired the entire garage with lights, outlets, welder, and all, with no problems. I think I might be mistreating the GFCI with a switch or something.

Just an after-thought, I wonder if the breaking the tab only on the hot side of the outlet has an effect, even withut a load? Also a thought on that line, is there a double pole switch I should have on the outlet, instead of the single pole light switch, switching the hot only? If that were the case, why does the disconnect switch I have only disconnect the hot (black) wire... And with it disconnected, (the white wire is still connected) it doesn't trip the breaker...

Trying to follow what you have already done and it sounds like you have a problem with the disconnect box or the wiring in the disconnect box. What kind of disconnect is it?

At this point I think I would disconnect all of the wires in the box (disconnect), check the GFCI. If its OK, I would then connect the two hots with a wire nut. If the GFCI does not trip that would eliminate all of the wiring and everything beyond the disconnect box. If the GFCI does not trip I would then connect the incoming hot to the disconnect box terminal. If the GFCI trips that would indicate a fault with the box or movement of the wire that created a fault. If the GFCI does not trip I would insert the pull out or turn on the switch which ever is applicable. If the GFCI trips that would indicate a fault with the box after the disconnecting means. If the GFCI does not trip I would then connect the outgoing hot to the terminal. If the GFCI trips that would indicate a fault between the wiring and the disconnect box. If the GFCI doesn't trip you have solved your problem

Yes, hkstroud, it was the switch that was the problem, just the "electritian" ended up making it a bigger deal than it was.

I feel like a real idiot... I thought about it all last night, it is such a simple circuit. It all pointed to the disconnect switch. I went out this morning to remove the switch and realized the switch I had picked up was a Special 3 way switch... Bonehead me for jumping to the conclusion that the GFCI was the problem. I rewired the switch, putting the Hot (switched) wire where the switch was marked Common, and removing the Hot wire from the opposite side of the switch to the top of the switch on the same side as the "Common". The 3 way switch has 4 connections including the Green/Ground, it is supposed to have another of the same switches wired to it with the "Common" and the "Hot" connectors connected to each other. After looking at the receipt, I realized that I just paid $6 for a switch when a $3 switch was what I needed. I guess I should have slooowed down to look at what I was doing, lol. Thanks for the reply, and if someone else finds this from a search about a GFCI fantom trip, make sure there isn't a white wire, or 4 connections on your simple SPST switch...