Hi all!
I'm glad I found this site!

Here's my problem:
We're moving into a 35 yo house, and the washer drain can't handle the discharge from our relatively new washer. DH put a reducer on the end of the washer hose and duck taped the hose and drain and it seems to be working now, but I'm sure that's only a temporary fix.

When it's not taped, the reducer isn't enough, and water pours out onto the garage floor.

He and a buddy have tried running the washer hose down into the pipe, but that didn't help.

Since it's working for now, it's not an immediate problem, but I can't imagine that duck tape is the permanent solution.

Any ideas?
Thanks for your help!

We have had quite a few complaints like yours, ( especially with new MayTag washers) where the washer pump is too powerful for a 1 1/2" trap and stand pipe. The only bproblem I can find with your solution is that it not only reduces the volume you're discharging and sets up back pressure in the pump. No biggie in my book but let me give you another solution.
I have a solution that I've never had a complaint on and one that I had to use on my washer. You close off the stand pipe the washer connects to with a compression fitting,(see image) or I caulked the hose in with rags and sealed it with duct tape. This makes a water tight connection between the washer and the stand piipe. Nothing can leak out or overflow and the force from the pump will send the discharge out into the main drain. While there is some back pressure involved there will not be enough to damage the washer pump. Outside of oversizing the washer trap and standpipe or reducing the opening at the end of the hose this is about the only solutions that I know that works. Good luck, Tom

Thanks Tom!
This is actually a Maytag washer, just like you mentioned.
I'll show your reply to DH.
Thank you again!

If anybody else has another idea, I'll show them all to DH! :)

Have a good day!
Judy

There is likely "build-up" caked inside the pipe. Specially at low points, traps, and so on. A suggestion is gentle use of a "sewer-snake" with small, then progressively bigger augers. This is done "by feel" and carefully, to avoid damaging the piping. As piping internal diameter improves, flow rate in GPM improves with it.

A King Kong approach should be avoided... Good Luck...

The way to solve your problem is to upgrade your pipes to 2". Or you can move your washer to different part of your house where you have larger pipes. Unless you do so, everything else will be only temporary fix.

I agree with Milo except I'd upgrade to a 3" pipe which will be the new code in 2009. If you do re[lace the piping might as well go with the latest recommendation. Tom's solution will definitely work on only puts a small amount of back pressure to the machine. However, if that connection ever fails when you aren't around the damage will be no small clean up.