I need to cut a kitchen sink PVC waste pipe to replace the base unit enclosing it and then, subsequently, remake the join. The problem is, I have about 1/4" to play with! Are there any clever adapters that I can use that either fit inside the inner sleeve, or outside the outer sleeve that I can use to extend the pipe? I'm hoping I don't have to excavate the wall!

I've attached a picture, I'm planning to cut where the arrow is pointing.

Hope you can help!

Hi Avacadinho,

There are a couple options that come to mind, but the easiest way here may be to purchase a 1.5" pipe reaming tool as in the picture below. This can be purchased at any local plumbing supply house.

Here, you cut the 1.5" pipe you pointed to in your picture FLUSH with the fitting socket at the wall... then you use the reamer to remove the pipe inside the fitting socket.

The tool can be a bit tricky... needs to be at full speed and drill needs to be square and under control using two hands... do not exceed the socket depth of 3/4" or you will have to open the wall and replace piping from there.

Otherwise, you can use heat/torch and strategic cuts to plastic piping to try and remove/pry pipe/fitting from socket/pipe... chances are about the same as the above reamer!! And here, heat/torch/fumes are bad stuff... so opt. for the reaming tool 1st (if need more info. On this let me know)!

I would recommend that if use either option you practice on the desanco fitting at the end of the WYE fitting first!

If all else fails you will need to open wall and install new sanitary tee fitting and pipe from there. Let us know if it goes this far, see if we can help make as painless as possible... ;)

Let me know what you think...

MARK

Well it can be done. No guarantee, but it can be done.

Cut Y fitting off at the hub. Cut the hub longitudinally. Cut only the hub not the pipe. Stop cutting when you are almost through the hub. Protect the cabinet with about 4 layers of aluminum foil held in place with thumb tacks.
With a torch slowly heat the hub in the area of the cut. Fan the flame over about a 1" area on either side of the cut. If you are using a propane torch use a small tip. You don't want much flame. As the hub begins to soften pry it away from the pipe with a 1/2" wood chisel. Work the flame ahead of the chisel to soften the hub.
Sand the pipe enough to get a new coupling on. Use primer and generous application of glue on the pipe to fit coupling.

Harold just explained the heat and pry method perfectly!

Hopefully, reamer or this method gets you up and running without opening that wall.

Let us know if you need more info.!

Just wanted to agree with Mark, system won't let me. It's just that I don't have those fancy tools he has. Besides he forgot to post the picture.

Picture of reamer is posted at post #2... :p

Don't tell me you want me to find a picture of the heat and pry method... :rolleyes:

'Course... I like a challenge!

Good night.
.

Well, if you don't mind the looks, than there is one more option. Cut off old PVC in that 1 1/4" nipple area. Use FlexSeal coupling. Push it over the hub close the wall and tighten with s.s. bend. You can continue towards the sink with new pipe. We use this approach in situations like yours.

Guys!

Thanks for the advice, I like it!. the thing I like about it is that I get two attempts ;)

1) I can try hkstroud's "prying" method and, if this fails,
2) I can try massplumber's reamer.

I'm going to give this a try first thing tomorrow.

Massplumber: do you recommend supporting the fitting socket while the reamer is turning? You said I should come in at full speed: any lubricant required?

Cheers,

Avocadinho.

(preempt) Yes... I don't have anything better to do on July 4th!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by avocadinho

Guys!

thanks for the advice, I like it!...the thing I like about it is that I get two attempts ;)

1) I can try hkstroud's "prying" method and, if this fails,
2) I can try massplumber's reamer.

I'm going to give this a try first thing tomorrow.

massplumber: do you recommend supporting the fitting socket while the reamer is turning? You said I should come in at full speed: any lubricant required?

Cheers,

Avocadinho.

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You won't be able to try method #2 if you start with method #1.

The 'Ram-Bit' is guided by a metal disk that fits snugly inside of the pipe.

Personally, I'd opt for the 'Ram-Bit' -- I've been using them for years without any issues whatsoever.

Hi Guys:

Iamgrowler explained what needs to be done quite well!

All I wanted to add is that you can practice on the fittings in front of the final socket at the wall.

No lubricants needed and as Iamgrowler pointed out the metal disk guides the reamer so should go pretty easy!

Let us know how it goes...

MARK

OK... I guess I'm misunderstanding either method 1 or 2 then?

I thought that method 1 involved prying of the female part of the y-fitting... I've outlined this part in blue on the attached figure. If this worked, it would leave me a male fitting of sufficient length to attach a new Y after the base unit is installed. If I screwed up and damaged the inner pipe during the prying process, then I'd just go for method 2: cut off where the original red arrow is and proceed with the reamer (this is the same thing as the 'ram-bit', right?), to remove the inner pipe, leaving the outer (female) part of the fitting intact.

Is something here not correct?

Cheers

Avocadinho

NOPE... You got it just fine!

Good luck with it... ;)

MARK

Avocadino: both processes as suggested above require certain level of skill. Yes, you can easily overheat and deform your hub or you can damage interior of hub by improperly reaming out the old pipe. If that happens: use Flex Seal coupling ! It is a lifesaver. It will cover all your imperfections ! Good Luck and happy 4th !

I didn't manage to try this yet... spent most of the day trying to remove granite countertop... not fun! Need to postpone this until weekend. I'll let you know how it goes!

Success! Method 1 worked like an absolute charm. I cut the Y-fitting off about 1" beyond the join (just below where the "Y" part of the pipe comes off). Then I cut the outer pipe into four quarters, cutting parallel to the pipe and making sure that I'd gone completely through (without touching the inner pipe). Then I gently wafted the torch (on lowest setting) while applying a slight rocking pressure to the relevant quarter with a pair of pliers. All four quarters just popped off with very little effort and the inner pipe appears to be undamaged.

Many thanks for all of your help!

Avo.

Good for you!

Drop back anytime you think we can help!

MARK

Congrats.

Thanks for letting us know.