Remodeling our bathroom and need to switch out the shower valve. The walls are open, so everything is accessible. If it's harder than this, or I'm missing something, please let me know...

All outside the wall...
1 - disassemble the guts of the valve so as to not damage it with heat
2 - with proper measurements of course, fit two short pipes coming out left & right with the proper threaded fittings
3 - sweat the 90 degree elbows on each side to bend down towards the supplies
4 - sweat a short extender pipe down from each elbow (vertically)
5 - sweat a coupling on the bottom of each cold/hot pipe to attach to the cold/hot supplies
6 - on the top of the valve, sweat/thread the supply that goes up to the shower head
7 - reassemble the valve


Now... working in the wall...
1 - cut the water supply off (at the main, because I don't have a shutoff valve at the shower)
2 - cut the cold/hot supply lines, using my pre-assembled vavle/elbow assembly to measure where
3 - sweat the assembly at the cold/hot coupling to the cold/hot supply coming out of the floor.
4 - let the solder cool
5 - turn the water on.

I think you described it just like any other plumber would do it... So is there any problem with your installation..

You know a lot of folks tell me they want to have their valves replaced and many did not know that you can just buy a new trim kit for many old valves. They look brand new and about 1/3 the cost. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Hi all:

Nc8861:

Use lead free solder, and get a fitting cleaning brush and plumber's sandcloth.

Soldering is all about the prep! Clean eveything well and FLUX the fitting as well as the pipe to be joined and then solder the joint by using the heat from the torch to PULL the solder into the joint. Don't melt the solder with the heat... have the torch heat the metal and use the flame to DRAW the solder up and into the joint!

Presolder all threaded fittings before installing them. After they are soldered and cooled apply teflon tape or pipe dope to the threads and then install the fittings.

Don't just sweat one side of a coupling... sweat both sides of a coupling at the same time... less chance of leaks!

Don't forget to hang everything real good now.

Finally, when turn water back on, check for leaks, and then purge water to the nearest sink without an aerator if possible. Best choice is a laundry tub, or if necessary, purge water/air to a TUB spout, then open all faucets to the house individually to be sure no aerators are clogged. If they become clogged, just remove and clean to restore full flow.

Good luck with it... ;)

MARK

Well - mine's got a small leak. Plus our bathroom is down to the studs and subfloor. So I figured this is a good time.

Massplumber - what do you mean about both sides of the coupling? You mean apply heat to both sides?

No.. I mean don't solder the coupling onto the pipe in wall and then install the valve and solder the other 1/2 a little later.

Install the coupling then install the valve... then solder the coupling.. OK?

Also, reread my post above... I think I clarified something while you were posting to me.. ;)

Let us know if need more...

MARK