I have an 30 year old 50 gallon gas hot water heater that still works OK, but I know eventually I will have to replace it. I can't believe it is still working, but it is and produces plenty of hot water. It can't last forever and I want to be ready to replace it quickly when the time comes, so I am going to change my water supply lines to flexible ones, rather than the short lengths of copper tubing with sweated threaded fittings that connect to the old existing threaded galvanized piping that runs throughout the house. I plan to use flexible stainless steel water supply connectors. My question is, is it better to use the corrugated type or the type that has the outer flexible woven stainless steel jacket?

I prefer the stainless steel woven jacket but they both provide good service. The oven jacket has better burst resistance.

Thanks for the reply. I would have thought the corrugated line would have a better burst resistance because it is all metal rather than the woven jacket over what I assume is rubber. That is why I ask this type of question and respect the answer of an expert. I am a great believer in the woven jacket supply lines and have them on my dish washer, toilets, ice maker, sinks, and washing machine.

30 years old... huh? Nice! Hope you don't expect that kind of time frame from the next heater... ;)

Ballenger has my vote here, for sure! If corrugated copper or rubber hoses burst... can get ugly very fast! The SS woven sleeve reduces the chance of a TRUE BURST SITUATION compared to the plain corrugated copper connector... reduces burst to weeping... a good thing!

Now, since that heater is 30 years old... I would also recommend that you purchase a water alarm (see pic.)... called the WATCHDOG water alarm. It is sold at HOME DEPOT for $9.95 and runs on a 9 volt battery... sounds a 100 decibel alarm should any water be detected at the base of the water heater or any area you install this, you will hear the alarm... not bad for $10.00!

Let us know what you think...

MARK

Yep, I was amazed by the age of that heater. My dad sold his house after 55 years, still the original heater. I'm lucky to get 6-7 years out of them but hey, that creates work for us.

1. Don't use s.s. flexible w/h connectors. They kink. Especially hot water side.
2. Use 3/4" x 24" copper corrugated flexible water heater supply connectors. The length is to your advantage. Bend them , or create a loop, as you need.

Maybe you can sell the old heater as an antique. :-D But in any case: you got your money back many times over! What brand is it, anyway? j

I know it is hard to believe the heater has lasted this long and I don't expect the next one to. It is a Sears with a 75,000 BTU rating and is Avocado green. When we bought the house it had a small electric water heater that would run out of hot water before the bathtub was less than 1/4 full. My wife, myself, and 3 young daughters had just moved from out of state and this was the first of many problems we started having with the old house. I called Sears and told them to install the best gas hot water heater they had. The installers had to run a branch gas line and a vent pipe, and the total for the heater, other materials, and labor was a little over $400. That was a lot of money to me 30 years ago, but it has been well worth it and I have gotten my money's worth many times over. Even with the high demand for hot water with 5 people bathing, washing clothes, and running the dish washer, we have never run out of hot water. We are spoiled now, even though the girls have grown up and moved out, and will probably replace the old heater with a high recovery rate unit. Now I am even more confused about the supply lines - I thought the stainless steel would be better than copper. Thanks for the good advice about the alarm. I have been hesitant to replace the heater because "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but I know I have just been lucky and it can't last much longer. Any recommendations for the best replacement? I am willing to pay for a good reliable unit that will probably cost over $600, even if it won't last 30 years.

If the current lines are OK, why mess with the system changing pipes now? Would not just waiting till the tank goes out, to replace them.

Plumbing is like your health: you must take preventing measures to minimize unexpected emergencies.

75,000 BTU's in 50 gln hot water heater tells me that your unit was in date when energy wasn't such a concern. Today, you will get much more energy efficient unit with faster hot water recovery than you old water heater.

You will have many choices. Amongst the most common brands are: A.O. Smith, Bradford White, Sears, Rheem, and GE. We personally install Bradford White units. They are R16 insulated, have fast recovery, have 6 year warranty (upgradable to 10 years), free T&P valve and enclosed flame chamber.

Since your heater is a Carter-era unit, you may have an aluminum gas flex connecting heater and gas valve. You should replace it with today approved gas flex lines. It wouldn't hurt to replace your 1/2" gas valve as well. We always install earthquake strap that holds the unit against the wall. Also, if the heater is in a closet or in the attic, we install Smitty Drip Pan and drain it to the exterior using 3/4" PVC.

Depending where you reside, 50 gln Bradford White sells between $500.00 - $600.00 + tax, + any other parts you many need + labor these days.

Good luck & share with us how you did !

You know... I agree with FR CHUCK... why touch anything here..

Or, if bothering to touch it... have it replaced entirely and just be done with this. You start messing with things now... may end up making it so you MUST replace the heater NOW!

If this heater is in an unfinished space, I say you set the water alarm in place and just leave it alone until you decide it is time to replace the entire unit!

Good luck... MARK

I agree with all the comments and suggestions and appreciate the help. The only reason I want to change the supply lines is to make the installation of the new heater (when needed) go as quickly as possible. I probably didn't express myself too well in that the connection to the existing threaded galvanized was poor to begin with. That isn't a criticism of the installers - they did the best with what they had to work with and it has worked OK for 30 years. The house's original piping system had been re-routed in a bizarre way that I think was an amateur attempt to conceal the pipes. I intend to eventually re-pipe the whole house with copper, and don't want to connect the new heater to the old pipe. I will run copper from the main line coming into the house (which has already been replaced with copper from the house to the meter) to the heater and then later to the rest of the house. I suppose a picture would be clearer, but the present piping is so bad it would be embarrassing to show even though I didn't do it. Replacing the supply lines wouldn't disturb the heater enough to require immediate replacement. I think the gas supply is OK for now. It is black iron to a shutoff valve then copper tubing to the heater. I do intend to replace the shutoff valve and install a flexible gas line to the heater and add a drip leg that isn't there now. I don't think we require an earthquake strap in this area (Alabama) but I would put a drip pan under the new heater. I know the old heater is very energy inefficient, but with the 75,000 BTU burner is sure heats the water fast! I am not a professional plumber but 30 years of correcting mistakes has taught me a lot. Can I buy a Bradford-White heater if I am not a licensed plumber? If not, what would be the next best choice?

Good, honest, post..

Some people swear by Sears products. If I am not mistaken, Sears offers up to 12 year warranty on their heaters. Their heaters are usually more expensive but longer warranty and Sears presence itself may be the deciding factor. Also, Sears offers installation services.

A.O.Smith and Bradford White are usually sold in plumbing supply houses to professional installers. In many cases, they will sell to public for few extra dollars. My supply house (Ferguson Enterprises ) does sell to homeowners. But, here, you will have to haul it home yourself and hire your own plumber to install it.

Home Depot now sells GE heaters and some outlets still sell Rheem. They also offer up to 12 year warranty. HD offers delivery and installation services utilizing 3rd party contractors.

From your detailed description of your w/h plumbing and its surroundings, I suggest that you hire a professional plumber to install your new heater. Reason being that there will be other parts that he will have to supply and install in order to make your new heater fit and connect properly. He usually has all these parts on truck.

Good luck and let us know how you did!

Milo, thanks for the help and good advice. I haven't checked prices at Sears yet, but I will probably do so since I have had such good luck with the old heater (and other appliances from them). Both Home Depot and Lowe's have 12-year warranty 50 gallon heaters at about the same price - around $575 before tax. Even if I could find a supplier that would sell me a Bradford White or A.O. Smith heater, I doubt if they would honor the warranty if I installed it myself. I am close to Lowe's, Home Depot, and Sears so traveling distance to pickup is not a factor. I have a truck and usually try to pick up my purchases myself unless it they are just too large and heavy to handle. I am a die hard do-it-yourselfer, but I can understand the advantages in using a professional who has the knowledge and equipment to do the job faster and easier. I haven't made a final decision on that part of the project yet.

This caught my eye for some reason "It is black iron to a shutoff valve then copper tubing to the heater. " What kind of copper tubing do you see here? If you actually can see the tubing is copper its probably not considered safe any more. Coated or CSST is what's needed now adays. All of those companies you mntion will honor the warranty even if you install yourself. Water heater installation is not rocket science and with our help almost any handy person can do a correct and safe install.

That's a good call and you are probably correct. The gas line from the valve to the heater looks like ordinary copper tubing with what appears to be flared fittings to pipe adapters at each end. I don't doubt that it is no longer approved (if it ever was) and I did not intend to reuse it. I will definitely replace it with a suitable corrugated flexible gas line. I have full confidence that I would be able to safely install a replacement heater. I may look at the Bradford-White or A.O. Smith units if I could find a supplier that would sell one to me. From what I have read on the internet, these two brands are usually considered to be among the best. I have to consider their cost (which I assume is higher than the brands sold at the big box stores) versus long-term performance and quality. Experience has taught me that you get what you pay for. My original post about water supply lines has generated many more responses than I anticipated and I have received a lot of excellent information. I appreciate that several of you have taken the time to respond.

Glad to help, come back if you need any help with the install. Bob