My car has a hard start,normally on morning starts on second turn of key.upon taking off car would start jerking rpm gauge keeps bouncing all in the red zone through 3rd gear 4th gear someimes too.even at high speed 80,90mph can feel the jerk whilst rpm gauge keeps bouncing.car would loose power jerking backfiring almost at the verge of cutting off.two days ago did jerking backfiring thing losing power then cut off on the highway.it was embarrassing.it then started made a choking sound then shut off. It would not turn over for about 5 minuites.im at wits end with this car.most times I'm going to switch off the engine gone for a couple minutes the car wouldn't start probable not till 3-5mins later

I've changed the fuel filter,spark plugs,spark plug wires,distributor cap and the rotor problem is still there.can anyone share a little light on this situation

Replace the Ignition Control Module (main culprit) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Do the coil, while you are at it, you'll be glad you did.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Replace the Ignition Control Module (main culprit) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Do the coil, while you are at it, you'll be glad you did.

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TXGREASEMONKEY

It appears you are quite knowledgeable in hondas, perhaps you can help. I am troubleshooting a no start situation with a 95' v6 accord automatic. This problem is intermittent which makes it more difficult to pinpoint.
While turning the iginition switch from on to start I am only getting a click noise from the starter solenoid, and at times no noise at all. I checked for voltage to the starter with a simple test light, once the iginition is placed to the start position and voltage is intermittent. The battery has a full charge. Also once all components function correctly the engine runs like a charm. This symptom tends to only take place once the car has been driven at normal temperature. In the morning, the car starts and runs with no problems, until it is parked and a restart it attempted.

Assuming the Check Engine Light always comes on and goes off normally, PRPPRIPMO, try replacing the main relay, which is located under the dash and to the left of the steering column (hidden by silver cruise control box, which needs to be removed).

TEXASGM, no check engine light. Although I have considered replacing the main relay. The 95 v6 accord does have 140k miles. I suppose the only interruption between the ignition switch and the starter is the main relay. (aside from a broken wire, which is highly unlikely) Have you heard of similar symptoms take place only when the engine is "hot".? This is why I have not replaced the main relay just yet. No check engine light and malfunction only takes place when the engine is hot.

PRIMO, see if this helps:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

First, I would remove the battery and place it on a charger. Many people think their battery is fully charged, when it isn't. Your battery may be breaking down under heat. How old is the battery? Be sure to clean all battery and starter connections. My gut is the battery may be marginal. Honda starter motors are very reliable.

Texasgm,
Also my thoughts. I put a test light to the starter activation wire on the solenoid, and had a friend turn the key to the start position. No power to the test light during the malfunction although the click noise still occurs. Which order would you recommend replacing the solenoid and relay? Again, there are times there is no click at all.

Also when I did get power to the test light the starter would work as advertised.
Im thinking at this point, replace the relay. Would you agree?

If the battery is definitely good, starter motor and battery connections are clean, then I would focus on the starter solenoid.

TXGM,
I will replace the starter solenoid. Im guessing they are sold separate from the starter. Im still pondering on my test light diagnosis. The light did not illuminate when I was getting only a click from the solenoid, and it did when the starter worked correctly. If it were a definite defective solenoid, would the test light illuminate every time the iginition was placed to the start position? Also, does the main relay directly control voltage to the starter/solenoid? I jumped the solenoid from the battery and it worked but did not crank the engine. I was able to hear the bendix shoot and spin.

The reason I say the battery has a very good charge is because this symptom is intermittent. When I first began troubleshooting this, I must have started the engine and turned off a few dozen times. Cranking speed remained the same. No sign of a weak battery or drainage. I would allow the engine to run for a few minutes before I turned it off because the malfunction occurs during max engine operating temperature.

Perhaps at this point it is best to replace both solenoid and relay, to eliminate those possible trouble items..? I think you and I can agree one of those 2 items is creating the grief. I highly appreciate your attention to this matter.

By the way, What are the chances a nuetral safety switch is playing a role in this?

Based on your test of jumping the solenoid and the starter did not crank, I would replace the starter motor and solenoid. The main relay does not play any part in the starter motor working or not.

TXGM,

I have not been able to duplicate the malfunction ever since the jump from the battery to the solenoid start wire. At this point I could not agree more, the starter motor will soon need replacing. Speaking to other experienced techs, they state if the engine starts and runs even intermittently the main relay is fine. My next diagnosis is on a 91 civic dx . Oil in the spark plug tube. I see another thread that covers it.
Thanks for your assistance for this and in advance for others... =0)