The only way I have water pressure is to leave the power on!

I have replaced the 5 gallon pressure tank (28psi when void of water)/fittings/pressure gauge and tried 3 new 30/50 pressure switches and the problem remains the same.

With the power off, the pressure drops to 0 (not 30). When I turn the power on, the pressure builds to 28-30psi (not 50psi the cut-off) and the pump shuts off and drops down to 0-5psi then cycles back on again, building back up to 28-30 psi. This is very aggrevating when taking a shower.

What is supposed to be the cut-in pressure, is when my pump cuts off. It never see's any pressure above 30psi. If I tighten down the cut-on pressure nut, when the pressure reaches 30psi, it just stays there and the pump runs constantly unless I trip the breaker!

I know leaving the power on is not good for the pump.

OK, I'm going to go way out on a limb here and say that a new pressure switch will not solve your problem! (<; Sorry, couldn't help that.

I think you are dealing with two separate issues. You are saying that the pressure will drop from 30 to zero once the pump cuts off. That could be caused by a) A leak somewhere between the pressure tank and the house (not likely since you would probably have noticed that by now.) b) A faulty check valve which is allowing water to simply flow back from the pressure tank back into the well once the pump cuts off. My money is on the checkvalve. You should have such a valve between the pressure tank and the wellhead. This site will tell you a good bit about that. EAsy to replace and not expensive.

Water system check valve location & purpose - private pump and well system do-it-yourself repairs

The other issue is that your pump will not cut off once you get past 30# of pressure and that your pump will not pump up over 30# of pressure. That points towards a leak in your well pipe. The pump can overcome the leak until pressure builds to 30#, then the leak simply prevents pressure from building any higher. That could, by the way, also explain why your pressure drops so quickly once the pump cuts off. It is also possible that the watertable has dropped in your area and the pump doesn't have enough water to pump consistently, but I just don't think you are dealing with that.

What kind of pump is this, a sumbersible pump or above ground? Also, how deep is your well? And, just so I can say I asked a lot of questions, how old is your system?

BTW, I hope that was a typo when you wrote that you have a 5 gallon pressure tank.

Thanks for taking the time to answer!

You are correct, it is a 42 gal pressure tank. In addition to the new tank, tee fitting, gauge and switch, I also installed a new check valve between the well and the pressure tank (at the tank).
It is also a submersible pump that goes down about 160 feet.

The tank seems to hold on to the 28-30psi once the switch opens. When I turn on the faucet, the pressure will slowly drop down to 0-5psi before the switch will activate the pump, but it only pressurizes to about 30psi... no more. Something is not allowing it to pressurize up to the 50psi cut-off.

Does the additional info complicate your analysis or simplify it?

I'm sorry to report that it doesn't take much to complicate things for me! However, I think you are saying that the system will hold pressure until you start using water, correct? If that is the case, then the checkvalve theory goes out the window. One thing I would look at Casper. The little pipe that goes from back of the switch to the line, did you replace that? If not, did you check to be sure it is wide open and not filled with crud? Those little lines get "cruddy" pretty easily.

I am assuming you were having these problems before you started replacing everything? And, how old is the system, especially the pump?

I am still thinking of a leak in the wellpipe. But, that would not explain the fact that the pressure drops to just about nothing before the pump cuts back on. The little pipe I referred to is where we look first for that.

ONe more thing. Does your new switch have a reset lever on the side?

Let me add one more thought. The switch should be between the check valve and the tank, not between the checkvalve and the wellhead. It probably is, but just wanting to touch all the bases.

It is complicated enough to be aloof!

I think you are saying that the system will hold pressure until you start using water, correct? YES.

I did remove the small pipe that the switch connects to. It did not have any obstructions.

I am assuming you were having these problems before you started replacing everything? YES

Does your new switch have a reset lever on the side? NO, THE PREVIOUS ONE DID BUT LOWE'S DID NOT CARRY IT ANY LONGER.

And, how old is the system, especially the pump? THE WELL WAS INSTALLED IN 94, THE ACTUAL PUMP WAS REPLACED 3 YEARS AGO.

The switch should be between the check valve and the tank, IT IS.

Casper, you know that you are not making this easy. I REALLY wanted the little pipe to be stopped up.

The situation is basically this: Either something is wrong above ground, or something is wrong below ground. We like the above ground stuff because it is much easier and cheaper to fix, but we seem to have exhausted all the possibilities there. The system holds pressure when no water is being used. You have replaced the tank, the "T" connector, the switch, and the pressure gauge, all to no avail. The little pipe is clear. The switch is evidently wired correctly, since the pump comes on when the contacts close and it worked properly when it was installed three years ago.

So let's look at one more thing: Can the pump keep up a steady volume? Open a faucet (hopefully outside, close to the well), then watch the pressure gauge once the pump cuts on. The pump should be able to build up pressure, even with one faucet on, and should be able to deliver a minimum of 5 or 6 gallons per minute, which can be checked with a watch and a 5 gallon bucket. I am going to guess the pump cannot keep up the volume. That would indicate a pump problem (hopefully under warranty) or something going on with the well pipe or water table. Do the volume check and get back.

I might add that the mystery here is the fact that a new switch does not seem to work properly, allowing pressure to drop to near zero until the points close to have the pump cut back on. I'd want to remove the switch cover and be sure that the points are indeed staying open until the near zero point.

Thanks for your patience. There is a spigot in the tee that I can open up. I'll check your theory on that and checking the switch contacts when pressure is near the zero point.

I will get back with you!

Wishing you a great evening!

Garrie

Best wishes. Do stay in touch.

OK, here are the results of the tests.

FYI. The actual well is at the front of the house with the pressure tank in the basement.

1.
I opened a faucet installed in the tee (on the house side of the pressure tank) after closing off the supply to the house so the water would not drain back down. I was only contending with the pressure and water supply from the pressure tank to the well. Not the supply to the house.

From 28psi, the pressure slowly lowered to about 10psi then suddenly dropped to 3-5 psi then the switch clicked on, building up pressure to about 10psi and stayed there (not building up even to 30psi as the switch contacts remained closed). All the while, I was getting about 5 gallons/min. out the faucet. When I shut off the faucet, the pressure built up to 28psi and the switch turned off.

2.
I removed the switch cover and be sure that the points are indeed staying open until the near zero point and they were.

One thing I am additionally puzzled about. There was no mention about filling the pressure tank with any amount of water when I installed it. Initially, when I plugged in the breaker, the switch came on automatically, pressure built up to 28psi and the switch cut off. When I opened the faucet next to the tank, only about a gallon of water came out then air. In other words, no built up water reserve in the tank. Knowing I needed more water in the pressure tank to prevent the pump from turning on frequently, I released the air valve on top of the tank allow about 10-15 gallons (I am guessing) to displace the remove air. Now I seemingly have adequate water volume before the pump kicks on. With water in the pressure tank, it registers about 25-28psi wire a tire air pressure gauge.

Regardless, as before the tank and compents were replaced, the pressure would only build up to 28psi not 50.

You did not set up the tank properly. The tank must begin empty. You will adjust the air above the bladder to 28#. The tank will initially not fill with water, but as the weeks go by the air below the bladder will dissolve into the water and the tank will fill more adequately.

However, with you the switch still seems to be the issue along with the pump. Here is my question. At 5# of pressure, or even 10#, you will only get a relatively slow stream of water. To get 5 gpm would be surprising at that low pressure. I'm wondering if your pressure gauge (granted, it's new) is correct. I mean, think about it. You have put on two or three new switches, all preset to 30/50. But they cuton at 5 and off at 30. Just strikes me as strange.

You can adjust that switch. Pull the cover. Turn the large nut in the middle clockwise (turn off power first) to adjust both the cut in and cut off pressures upwards. Try to get to 40. If the pressure gauge reads 40, then the air valve at the top of the tank should also read 40.

If your pump will not get that high, then you will need to call in your well guy to check out the three year old pump.

Another observation:

I did change out the filter and that seemed to help just a bit.

When watering the yard, the pressure seems to be consistent and the flow does not ebb. When taking a shower, pressure is decent until seemingly the reserve in the pressure tank is used up, then no water. The pump will eventually kick on (I assume at 5psi) and the water will come back for a while then run out again. Is there enough water in the pressure tank?

Time to call in a pro. These things are hard to figure out with what amount to text messages. Your switch does not seem to be functioning properly, even though it's new, and the pump does not seem to deliver enough volume to take a shower, but it will water the yard?? Very strange. Please do let us know how this all resolves. Others on this site might have better answers than I have been able to provide.

Thanks for the advice. I will post an update when this is resolved.