When I power my HP Pavilion dv2000 laptop up, all the lights on the keyboard comes on, BUT the monitor remains black. What do you think is the issue?? What are the signs if it is the motherboard... and what are the signs if it is the video card. Most importantly, what is/are the remedies?? Thank you for any assistance on this matter.

Try to hook up the laptop to a standard monitor. At least you will find out if it is the display itself, or the laptop's motherboard and/or video card.

Success !

I have the same problem and was hoping to find an answer here.

I doubt it's the video card. I am able to see the screen once I hit CNTRL-ALT-DELETE and select a program to run - I select Internet Explorer & the screen displays normally. If I close internet - the screen once again revets back to "black".

I somehow think it is a configuration issue that was set inadvertently by function key setting.

Any ideas?

I had this problem with the same laptop. I had an extended warranty on it, so I sent it away. It took 6 weeks to fix. I'm still not sure what was wrong with it (the receipt didn't say) but it did say they replaced the CPU part or something of the sort.

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Originally Posted by damien33060

When I power my HP Pavilion dv2000 laptop up, all the lights on the keyboard comes on, BUT the monitor remains black. What do you think is the issue??? What are the signs if it is the motherboard...and what are the signs if it is the video card. Most importantly, what is/are the remedies??? Thank you for any assistance on this matter.

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You dv2000 may be suffering from the "NVIDIA GPU fries Motherboard" problem that HP has issued a limited extended warranty for -
HP Pavilion dv2000/dv6000/dv9000 and Compaq Presario v3000/v6000 Series Notebook PCs -  HP Limited Warranty Service Enhancement 

If you're fortunate, your laptop will be covered - check the product numbers in scope. If it's not covered then post to the HP forum site and complain. My dv2000t has a RM668AV product number and HP refused to repair it under the warranty... basically, not enough people had complained for it to register as a problem. So post away...

Business support forums - dv2000t 1 long, 2 short beeps, no display

Frustrated users have set up a dedicated site to get a result out of HP. Check it out -

HP Lies: You Were Shipped Defective Parts and HP Won't Tell You - Index page

HP is a scam nowadays, same problem happens to me, same model, then when I went to best buy to have it checked, 11 of the 16 customers inline had the same model of hp pavilloin dv2000 or dv6000

Same problem happens to me, similar model Dv2300 pavilion CPU intel 7300 and nvidia8400 GPU that seems to has problem by designing issue. P/N RM922AAR

When I power my HP Pavilion dv2000 laptop up, all the lights on the keyboard comes on, BUT the monitor remains black. What do you think is the problams?? What are the signs if it is the motherboard... and what are the signs if it is Motherbord battry. Becose some time I can start the my laptop then I ges is that mother bord battry matter.do you know what is the real prob? Can I know it:) Thank you for any assistance on this matter.[/QUOTE]

My laptop has the same problem too, I took mine to a technician after several attempts to solve the problem, he informed me that the motherboard needs to be changed.

My laptop has the same problem too, I took mine to a technician after several attempts to solve the problem, he informed me that the motherboard needs to be changed.

My HP Pavilion dv4 also appears to turn on and the lights on the keyboard light up but the screen is black. Does anyone know if it truly is the motherboard or the videocard?

Frustrated in CNY

All of these problemsthat u expl. Are about m.board and g.card, I don't need to tell that I had same experience with dv2000.

The best solution is/are if its mboard down (mostly) to find chaina copy, other ways u will expensive trip.
There are not better solution

How to Fix dv2000 No Video No Wireless issues Nvidia Video Chip Separating from the system board.

Copper shim, bga re-flow, no video fix hp dv2000.

This will also give you symptoms of no wireless connectivity or losing the wireless card.. or the system will loose the dvd/cd rom before the chip will entirely go out... lots of different problems can be attributed to this issue.. they all have something to do with the Nvidia Chipset. Also will exhibit 3 beeps and no video, or continuous power recycle with no video, or turn on and shut down 5 or 10 seconds later.

How to Fix No Video issues with a Penny?? Spend a penny save 350$ dollars?


Did you want a video... read through the post and check the end for how I did it...

This issue affects HP Pavilion dv2000, dv6000, dv9000, tx1000, Compaq Presario V3000, V6000, and Compaq F700 Series notebooks.






Directly from HP's web site
HP has identified a hardware issue with certain HP Pavilion dv2000/dv6000/dv9000 and Compaq Presario V3000/V6000 series notebook PCs, and has also released a new BIOS for these notebook PCs, version F.39 for dv2000/V3000, and version F.3D for dv6000/dv9000/V6000

The first thing you should do if you are experiencing these issues is
To go directly to HP's Website and see if you fall under their extended limited warranty just click on the link I have provided for you.

Now if you are not covered under warranty any longer... HP will help you at a cost.. it could be over 350$ dollars plus shipping and handling. With that type of cost you may as well just go out an purchase a new computer.

If you really decide to do that SEND ME YOU’RE COMPUTER I WILL TAKE IT!!

****Warning CYA stuff again this will void your warranty (if you still have one) and can render your laptop useless if you do something wrong if you are not comfortable taking this or any electronic product apart have a qualified Service Technician do if for you I take no responsibilities if you decide to this yourself. There is always a risk of electrocution as well capacitors can retain a charge and the power supply as well as the battery should be removed when any repair is made. (have to do this warning just a CYA thing) OH BTW DON'T DO THIS (ok that should cover me)********


But you can follow the previous posts dv6000 disassembly Part 1 and Part 2.

Also there is a guide here for the DV9000 series 17" laptop tear down


DV2000 series Tear-Down guide can be found here.


After Part 3 of the DV2000 post or the last post of the other DV tear-down guides, you will have access to the system board... you will need to take off the Heat Sink and fan assembly if you have made it this far you should be able to do that with no problem.. as well I would remove the processor from the ZIF socket.. and you will have this.


These are Actual pictures of the DV6000 system board so your will look a little different... but rest assured this has been tested to work on several dv2000 system boards.



The chip that is causing the problem is circled... that’s the Nvidia Video Chip. To be honest it is not Nvidia's issues don’t blame them it is actually the manufacturing process of the system board that is at fault the chip is fine and works great. During assembly the chip is attached to the system board via BGA soldering (Ball Grid Array) because of the heat generated by the video chip if heat is not wicked away properly and the proper amount of flux that was used the small solder joints under the chip will melt and eventually separate and no longer have contact with the chip and the system board.

As you were taking the Heat Sink off you may or may not have noticed the little squishy pad on the heat sink that was covering the video chip. IMO here is your first problem. As the system heats up over time this little pad expands and contracts it has some stickiness factor to it and will pull on the chip as it contracts when it cools.. this could be pulling the solder joints away under the video chip.

Regardless of if you are having the video issue or not this needs to be replaced.

*****Rant in my life time things have been fixed with bubble gum, bailing wire, and the almighty Duct Tape. Don't laugh at anything I will put in these blog postings... they work and have been tested repeatedly... *********

With that said the best replacement for that pad I have found is a piece of copper with thermal paste applied to both sides to conduct heat away from the chip to the heat sink.. This will ensure that there is no flexing or expanding or contractions to break the solder joints.

So where can I find a piece of copper that will fit under there?? That is the right size? Odds are pretty good you may have one in your pocket or in your change jar at home...

It's a Penny

Not just any Penny though it must be mostly cooper Penny.

Bit of History here the U.S. Mint in 1983 started making pennies with 97.5% Zinc with copper plating. Previously 1982 and earlier the pennies were made with 95% copper with the remaining 15% of Zinc and other metals.

Zinc will just not do so find an older penny and use it.

*** Yep another Warning... Defacing US currency is indeed illegal.
According to:
United States Code
TITLE 18 - CRIMES AND CRIMINAL PROCEDURE
PART I - CRIMES
CHAPTER 17 - COINS AND CURRENCY
333. Mutilation of national bank obligations
So don't do it******

The surfaces of a penny are pretty smooth and may make enough contact to conduct the heat desired to the heat sink or use something else similar sized that you can sand and lap to a smooth finish. And just using a penny will not deface it and after the computer has finished its usefulness you can still use the penny.

*** Rant what about those machines you find in the Museums that mash pennies with a picture or advertisement.. Is that not defacing U.S. Currency?? End of rant ****




Here is a close up of the video chip it self.. for some reason or another HP made different revisions of the same board yours may look a bit different.. The red silicone was an attempt on their part to eliminate the separation issues but this will not help if the heat sink pad is not removed and replaced with something else.

Do not try to remove the red compound that has been placed around the video chip.. it is very hard and you may end up damaging the system board in the process. This procedure has worked with the red compound intact and on boards that do not have the compound.

HP also adjusted the BIOS with a flash that will keep the fans running to wick heat away that also proved to be ineffective IMO as well.

Ok now that you have the board out and know why... How do we fix it..

Well the most permanent way to fix your issue is to send the board out for Re-Flow... there are numerous companies out there that will do this for you usually the cost is 50$ plus shipping and handling. You can find them on Fee-Bay (E-Bay) or you may be able to find a circuit repair shop in your local area... Google it..

Or

There are 2 ways you can do it at home... ****Warning... eh you know already... never mind*****

This may be a temporary fix may or may not hold for long but worth a shot

If you have removed the memory... which you really did not have to, to get the board out. Put it back in



Remove the pad that goes between the heat sink and the video chip... now you definitely will see a gap between the chip and the heat sink when you reinstall the heat sink... make sure you use thermal paste on the processor.. We don't want to damage that... BTW clean all the hard gooped up thermal compound they used its crap.. use Artic Silver the best stuff.. Connect the fan so you know it’s on.

Reconnect the Power Cables. Flip the board over place the LCD panel flat and close enough so you can watch it.

Find the Quick Launch Bezel and just attach the ribbon cable for the power.. it is the left ribbon cable.

Plug the computer in... and turn it on... you will still get either the beeping or no video... let it sit.. ON for a bit less than 2 or 3 min.

Turn it off... immediately turn it back on... wait for it... wait for it... did it post? If not try again for 5 min.

If it did... and you see the wonderful HP logo... shut it off.. disconnect the power, the Quick Launch ribbon cable and the LCD panel flip it back over take the heat sink off... put your piece of copper on top of the video chip (with thermal paste) reattach the Heat Sink flip it back over reattach everything and test it...

Is it still posting?? Re-assemble and use

Now a more permanent fix or if none of that worked... requires a Heat Gun, another bit of metal about the size of a Quarter.. (funny how useful money really is) and a bit of silver solder.

Put the metal on top of the video chip directly with a bit of wound up solder on top so it won't blow away.. usually uses a glob of artic silver to conduct the heat between the chip and the metal.

*** Some Folks are confused as to what does the Quarter sized piece of metal and the silver solder do. Well this is my (back yard mechanic) attempt at gauging the heat that will be transferred to the video chip and the BGA below the chip. If the metal on top gets hot enough to melt the silver solder odds are good that the chip is getting hot enough to melt the BGA and effectively re-joining the chip to the system board. ***

Be very careful... it will take a blink of an eye to melt plastic components surrounding the video chip.. so stay away from them with the heat gun.. this is a delicate process again DO NOT DO THIS but if you chose to it's your computer not mine.

You would be better to send it out to a certified Re-Flow company.

*** Before you start with the heat gun there is plastic (wrap for no better explination) sheilding all over the system board.. carefully remove anything that will melt and create a mess and bad smell. Just make sure you put it back where it was after you are done. ***

Start by heating the chip side about 5 inches away from the board for about 30 seconds.. Depending on how hot the heat gun gets..

You should have it close to a ledge so you can do the same to the bottom side.. 30 seconds or so..

Then start on the chip again. Make sure the board is flat and level at this time. Moving the heat gun closer ever 10 sec or so.. till the solder melts... if it melts too quickly you just got the heat gun to close to fast.. but just hold it there for another 30 sec to a min.. Pull back for about another 30 seconds at 5 to 6 inches...

Let cool... for 30 min or more... and test.. Just like above... if it works reassemble with your copper between the heat sink.. and your computer can be used... Waaahooo.

Do moderators look at some of the answers given?

Seriously!

Although the thread was started in 2008, it seems to have gone on.
With the intent that someone may have this problem in the future;

The HP Pavilion dv2000 series, dv6000 series, and dv9000 series Notebook PC's, have a cooling system problem.
More specifically cooling for the graphics chipset.

(There are other models of HP's, and Compaq's, that have this problem also)

Primer:
Chip and Chipset are slang terms for I.C.
Integrated Circuit,

Integrated circuit - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The I.C. used for graphics is the graphics chipset, or G.P.U.
Graphics Processing Unit,

Graphics processing unit - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The graphics chipset is soldered to the motherboard, (Integrated Graphics) with a BGA surface mount.
To explain a BGA surface mount;

Compare to an older Intel Pentium 4 processor, that uses a Socket 478 processor socket.
The bottom of the processor has contact pins.
478 of 'em.

The processor socket has matching socket holes. (478 of them)

With a BGA surface mount there are NO contact pins, nor socket holes.
Solder Balls take the place of the contact pins, and Copper Pads on the motherboard take the place of the socket holes.

Ball grid array - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The graphics chipset is set down on the motherboard, with the Solder balls lining up on the Copper Pads. (The Copper Pads also have a gold plating on them )

Heat is then applied at a specific temperature, and length of time.
The Solder Balls melt, which solders the graphics chipset to the Copper Pads.
(Which in turn of course, solders the graphics chipset to the motherboard)

With poor cooling for the graphics chipset, the chipset overheats. Constant overheating will soften (partially melt), the solder joints for the graphics chipset to motherboard.
Then the chipset cools down rapidly.
This creates cold solder joints, and a poor connection of graphics chipset to motherboard.


The cooling system consists of;
1) Heatsink
2) Cooling Tube
3) Fan Assembly

A) Cooling Tube:
The Cooling Tube is a slightly flattened copper tube, sealed on both ends, and filled with Nitrogen.

At one end the Heatsink is mounted. At the opposite end are two small metal plates. Spaced away from each other.
One small metal plate sits on top of the Processor.
The other small metal plate sits on top of the GPU. (Graphics chipset)

2) Heatsink:
Basic construction of the Heatsink is a small thin piece of metal, that has Tall, Thin fins protruding from it.
The thin piece of metal absorbs heat from whatever object it is placed against, and the Tall, Thin fins radiate the heat away.

3) Fan Assembly:
The Fan Assembly consists of the Fan, and surrounding cage. (Shroud)

Heat is absorbed from the Processor, and graphics chipset by their small respective metal plates. Heat is then absorbed by the Cooling Tube.

The Cooling Tube transfers the heat up to the Heatsink.
The Fan Assembly's air flow, helps carry heat away from the fins of the Heatsink.

Primer over.

The surface area of the small metal plate for the graphics chipset, is inadequate in size.
THIS, is the cooling system problem.
(The surface area of the small metal plate for the Processor, is BARELY adequate in size)

The 'cure' for the problem, is to add surface area for the graphics chipset's small metal plate.
This is carefully done with copper sheeting.

ALWAYS replace the Thermal Paste.

(Goes in-between the top of the Processor's case, and the bottom of it's small metal plate. Same thing for the graphics chipset.
In-between the top of it, and it's small metal plate)

For one, Thermal Paste dries up over time. Looses it's conductivity.
For two it has been constantly over-heated on the graphics chipset.

If a Thermal Pad is used, remove it, fly it at the cat.
They are J-U-N-K, and cannot be reused anyway.
(NEVER use a Thermal Pad. Also DO NOT use Thermal Glue )

All the cheap 'quick fixes' you hear about, and read about are J-U-N-K!
They are TEMPORARY fixes at best.

The best solution is to use a BGA Rework Machine.
Send the motherboard out, and have the BGA surface mount reworked. (Flowed)

The following link is for REFERENCE only. I do NOT subscribe to the 'Torch' method.
(In fairness to the author however, he states in the comments section { Show more }, that using a BGA Rework Machine IS the way to go),

HP DV2000 Blank Screen Nvidia video problem. BGA reflow Fix! - YouTube

Replace the motherboard?

Why?

So you can have the SAME problem again?

Regards,
joecoolvette