98 Honda CIvic 4 door EX


Posted it up on Honda forums as well but I decided to try over here as well

So the problem is:

When it reached operation temp it shoots off , just like that

Recently replaced parts due this issue
-timing belt
-water pump
-crank shaft position sensor
-valve adjustment
-new battery
-spark plugs +wires
-new distributor


There is no engine light , no cel



I replaced ECu to check if that's a problem but nothing


My friend idea :

Originally Posted by Just of Spades
I bought my old tempo beater for $500 with a blown HG. I could drive around for 15 minutes or so, and once up to temp(thermostat opened)... it just died. Large enough gulp of anti-freeze and it stalled.

It would take AT LEAST 24 hours before it would restart. Trying to restart it before that time would not increase the time... in other words, the clock wouldn't restart.

The issue started with bucking and hesitation... when the previous owner(a friend) had the car diagnosed(by another friend). Once the gasket got bad enough... it mimicked pawels civic.

Thoughts?

That's exactly what is happening with my car but coolant is green , and oil is clean as well
, car doesn't over heat as well



I just checked

- main relay

And IT works


I was thinking about EGR but I can't find it on my car

PLEASE HELP

:(

Try the solenoid or the coil. My old Cavalier would do almost the same thing and my mechanic could not figure out the problem until the coil actually finally failed.

It would have been helpful to know the make, year, and engine. Before you do anything else, try resetting the ECM and see if the problem goes away. Pull the BACKUP fuse in the under-hood fuse box, or disconnect the negative battery cable, for 10 seconds.

If your car is a Honda (depending on year), I would replace the main relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), and coil. These are all heat-sensitive, problematic components. Ensure the back of the ICM is coated with a thin, even coat of heat transfer silicone grease. I normally recommend these items be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

If the problem persists, focus on the distributor housing. We have had many problems with aftermarket distributors. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings.

I'm sorry

Its 98 Honda Civic 4 door EX single cam engine

I tried reseting ECU


I replaced ECU and Main relay ( if that's the one on the side of glow box,on the right side,) and nothing changed


I have engine light on for 2 sec before I turn the car on


Previous owner replaced distributor coils... due this problem

Should I do it again

I will try replace fuel filter

How do I know my fuel pump is OK?

What about EGR? I can't even find it on my car


Please help

I have never seen a bad Honda fuel pump, even though many people suspect and replace them. If you can hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run, when you turn the ignition key to ON, it's likely okay.

I would have the Ignition Control Module and coil tested or replaced. Here's how to do it yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

AutoZone and O'Reilly Auto Parts can test ICMs for free.

Did you install an aftermarket distributor?

Are any codes ever thrown?

No codes / no engine lights

I can't drive this car due this issue so I can't go to the store to test anything :(

Previous owner replaced distributor ( its brand new but I don't know if that's OEM one )

So should I replace distributor one more time?

I also have 97 civic 2 door coupe DX so I'm trying to replace what I can to find a problem

Not yet. I'm inclined to suspect your ICM and/or coil are breaking down, when they heat up. Hondas are notorious for having problems with these components. Make sure you to use the heat-transfer silicone grease on the back of the ICM; otherwise, it won't last long.

FIXED! :)

It was Ignition Control Module

THANKS A LOT GUYS

Good job! Your Civic should be in good shape, with all of the work you have done on it. Here are some recommended maintenance items that will help you keep it on the road for a long time:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

Yipes, you threw a lot of $ at it. Don't you hate these problems.

I worked on an 87 Plymouth Caravelle. Very nice car BTW. You'd be driving and suddenly, it would stop. It had the blinky check engine light and some proprietary method for interrogating the ECM. In about 10 min after it stopped, it would start back up again. Eventually, I was able to discover that their was no spark.

Well, it was a tough nut to crack. Turns out it was a bad pickup in the distributer.

I had another problem in an 82 Celica (carburated) that drove me nuts too:

Symptoms:

Car intentionally turned off after it reached operating temperature.
Car sat for 15-30 min. Longer or shorter, generally no problem.
When car was re-started in this period, I would have extremely low idle.

Turns out that there was a solenoid that was mounted on the valve cover which got too hot. It was a normally open valve which turned on full vacuum to the EGR valve when the ignition was off to prevent dieseling. That valve stuck. Talk about fun.

My father had a 1968 car that would not go up steep hills. You could go around the hil with no problems. Check valve popped out of fuel pump.

Then I had a really strange problem with my high school car. Bought as a wreck for $50 when I was 15. My dad's friend slammed it into a tree when he was drunk and didn't want to tell insurance company. It was a 65 Ford Galaxy 500, 6 cyl.

When I was done with that vehicle, I got 18-19 mpg which wasn't very common at the time. It didn't take much to achieve that either.

1. Added a retrofit optoelectronic ignition system.
2. Better wires - had too.
3. Had head re-done
4. Ported intake manifold. I took a rotary file on all off the intake passages in the intake manifold and made it smooth rather than rough. I did the while the head was being done.

It made all the difference in the world.

I had problems on it's first maiden voyage (mods were not done yet) where it had lots of acceleration problems. The rubber hose at the fuel tank was slit facing up. That was just nuts too.

Yep, got car experiences too such as:
1. rack and pinion replacement
2. carb rebuilds (120+ parts)
3. gas tank drop
4. replace rear wheel bearings (rear wheel drive)
5. brakes
6. Universal joints
7. added AC from a big box of parts.
8. Wheel cylinders (replace and rebuid)
9. Master cylinders (replace and rebuid)
10. Tune-up w/ valve adjust

Right now, just don't seem to have the time for it. Most of the time it was very relaxing.

ONLY 2 isuues left ;)

- central lock not working
- rear L door window doesn't work