Hi , my name is adrien kintziger, I live in belgium, I"m 49 yrs old ,and i work in honda europe belgium (ghent), in the parts warehouse (300.000) diff partnbrs, in diff quantities

i have a honda accord 94 2.0l ils

with starting trouble....sometimes only
and the problem is intermittant,...when i bring the car to the dealer, it starts perfect....
i had the fuelpump renewed, the pgm-f1 main relay is new,the spark plug wires are tested
and are returning between 12.000 and 10.000 ohms, when i poor water on the ignitionhousing and cables the engine runs perfectly on idle.....i renewed the battery.
the cel is coming on sometimes during drivingsituations, but disappears after a new start..
and with the diagnosiscable under the dash shorted-,there is no code from the cel, ...strange.
the dealer inserted also a new lambda-probe in the exhaust( i think its known a a oxygen sensor in the states)

the dealer calls it a dentistproblem , you feel pain in your teeth , until you make an appointment with the dentist , and the pain is away the moment the appointment is there..
and so , ..after all this money rip-off,
he has no idea he says what the problem with my car is.
the car also runs on lpg,-liquefied petroleum gas , switchable with normal fuel.
this installation runs on an own ecm, when the car is on lpg, and this ecm is throwing simulated lamda-values and simulated signal as "working" to the injectors , and car -ecm.
Having it to believe all is as usual.I took this lpg computer to a diagnosiscenter, and it tested OK on all possible programs, mappings and lambda-oxygen-exhaust working..
In fact the only thing they can think off , needing replacement , was the oxygen-exhaust relating actuator on the primary lpg pressure reducer, so this is also renewed now.

The car passes emission-testing on both lpg and fuel, perfectly.

The car starts always on normal fuel, this is done so because there is a risk for a backfire,
And the starting problem is therefore always on fuel, and very intermittant.


Using the things I can see here, on this forum , I think I can test this ecm-5 volt issue
Probably this afternoon.
But then , I have no idea really, so can anyone give me some good guidance, anew car is not a financial option right now.

Thanks in advantage, adrien

So you are working at Honda Europe Belgium (Ghent), and you have problems with your own Honda Accord 94 2.0l ils .

And now you want our advice , as neither your Honda dealer nor your own Honda colleagues seem able to help you...

In that case next time I buy a vehicle I better do not purchase a Honda !

:rolleyes:

PS : success with the repair !

:D :D :D :D

I have no experience with cars running on LPG. I not sure what effect it is having and if it's part of your problem or not. With that being said, here's what I would do:

. Reset the ECM, by removing the negative battery cable, or removing the 7.5 amp BACKUP fuse in the under-hood fuse box, for 10 seconds.

. Perform K-Test on the ECM:

Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

. Test/replace the Ignition Control Module and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Because of the age of your Accord, I would replace these problematic components. While you have the distributor open, I would also replace the rotor and distributor cap.