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I have a partially recessed cabinet thet I want to frame out with cove molding. I have a compund miter saw and need to know the best way to miter the joints. Don't have enough molding to experiment with! I want it to go around the wall and the cabinet.Attachment 9381
First check the corners of the cabinet to insure that they are square. With a cabinet that small they should be. Swing you miter saw to the left to 45 degrees and precut your all molding into pieces a couple of inches long. Place a piece of molding on the wall beside the cabinet. Mark the outside edge of the molding on the wall at the corners. Do this for each side and the top and bottom of the cabinet. Where the two lines intersect is the outside corner of the two pieces of molding. Measure the distances between outside corners. Mark that measurement on outside edge of a piece of precut molding. Swing you saw to the right to 45 degrees and cut to length. It is easier to see just where the blade is going to cut when the saw is swung to the right, hence cut the left in first. It is easier to see the mark on the outside edge of the molding when cutting, hence marking the wall so you can measure. Cut to length. When cutting it is sometimes difficult to judge just how close you are to the mark. Cut a little longe then make a second cut. Cut your molding about 1/32 long to get tight joints. You can always cut a little long, test and then recut if necessary, called sneaking up on it. When I want to take off small amounts, say about a 32nd, with the saw not running, I bring the blade down, push the molding up against the blade hard. This will deflect the blade slightly. I hold the molding in place and raise the blade then make the cut. Takes off about 1/32.
If your corners are not 90 degrees purchase a small angle finder at Home Depot for a couple of dollars and measure the corners. If a corners is not 90 degrees, lets say one is 94 degrees set you saw to half that to cut both pieces of molding that meet at that corner.
If the legs of you cove molding are not the same, be sure to mark which one is going against the wall so that you are consistent, that's the side you want on the saw table.
Patty:
Harold has really great information.
The only other thing I wanted to point out is that the recessed cabinet sticks out of the wall about 3/4"..
Why?
The cabinet should be FLUSH with the wall so you cover the shelf joints when you install the finish moulding. Look at the doorway trim...you want the trim to be similar to the doorway trim.
Otherwise, you need to build out the moulding width to the depth cabinet is... so that when install moulding you end up with all wood trim around the cabinet.
Hope that made sense..?
Great job Harold!
Mark
Well, if you want to purty it up, get some iron on venier and cover the leading edges of the cabinet and the shelves. Get out your table saw and make some molding like this and trim it out. Kind of look like a picture frame.
Guys, I'm confused (no more than usual) as to the type of cove molding being used and how it's being installed at the ceiling line. It is at an angle (45 degrees). I cannot picture how the cove will frame the cabinet. It it casing instead? I'm thinking for a cove molding the cabinet may not extend out from the wall enough, unless it's a very small molding ? Mass, evidently you see the same thing I do. Maybe it's a 1/4 round ?
The cabinet actually sticks out of the wall 2.25". That's why I wanted to frame it out with cove molding. I added another piece of flat molding that I mitered to reach to the edge of the cabinet. I have top and one side fitted and now I'm going to "sneak up" on the other 2Quote:
Originally Posted by massplumber2008
Corners. Harold gave me exactly the information I needed. Thanks Harold!
I will be putting a glass insert in the door frame I made.Attachment 9479
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As a retired carpenter, I would say that you did a very good job. The cove makes the cabinet look finished and like it belongs there. Thanks for taking time to share the finished product with us.
Here are a couple of shots of the vanity that Mark and Harold helped me out with getting the plumbing for the drawers. The top over the toilet is removable.Quote:
Originally Posted by pattyg2
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I love to use molding anywhere I can. The wood I used for the cabinet came from the scrap bin at Home Depot and I spent 51 cents for each 4' board. Of course I got them all!Quote:
Originally Posted by westnlas
Adding the molding hides the cheap wood!
Thanks for the compliment!
Patty
Nice job Patty.
So you are a woodworker. I knew you were a good guy, just knew it.
I actually started sewing when I was 6 years old. Then one day I got a hold of a hand saw and some old pallet wood and built a fence around the patio to keep the kids in. It's been power tools ever since for my birthday and Christmas!Quote:
Originally Posted by hkstroud
I was messing up my cuts by not keeping the same side down on the chop saw. That was something I didn't know. Thanks for the advice!
Jack of all Trades... Master of NONE,
Patty
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I finally got it done except for cutting the glass for the door. I think I might make another door out of better material though. I thank everyone for their help!Quote:
Originally Posted by westnlas
Patty
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Hey Patty... nice job all around... especially matching up to the old stain! And here I was all worried you were missing a detail or two... silly me!
Great job!
Thanks! You helped me out sooooo much with this bathroom project and I appreciate it. Going on vacation for a couple of weeks next month. I'm sure I will have some more questions when I return and start tiling the shower.Quote:
Originally Posted by massplumber2008
Thanks Again,
Patty
Well I finally got around to making the new door frame and getting the courage to cut glass for the first time. I used a few glazier points and then drilled and nailed a stained dowel rod over it since I couldn't find any molding small enough. I can say it looks good and covers up the glazier points.Quote:
Originally Posted by pattyg2
Also I was wondering when I start tiling the shower with 12x12 porce;ain tiles on hardi backerboard what is the best type of mortar to use?
Thanks,
Patty
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Well Harold I finally got the new door done and also put some stained 1" cove molding around the bathroom ceiling and thanks to your advice about the miter saw I had no problem at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by pattyg2
Thanks Again,
PattyAttachment 9815
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Looking good Patty. True craftsmanship. I would say you will soon be ready to try your hand at crown molding, a great way to put males to shame.
I will. I want to put some in my bedroom. I chose the cove molding because the bathroom is small but I'll get some crown and stain it and install it in the bedroom. I'm also going to get mahogany laminate floors for the whole house. I've been here 20 years and keep improving the house. Beats selling and buying a new one since this one is paid for. If I need any help I'll be sure to ask.Quote:
Originally Posted by hkstroud
Thanks Again Harold!
Patty
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