Sorry if this shows up twice. I posted it awhile ago but don't see it online.

Replacing the cast aluminum mandrel for one of the mower blades, wondering how to get the shaft and bearing out so I don't have to replace them, too. Tried whacking it with a rubber hammer, no luck.

I can provide pix from the parts list if needed.

TIA,
Flatcat47

Post pics using "go advanced".

Let's see how my tech prowess is...

If the pic comes through, I'm trying to get the 13 and the 15 outa the 14

From what I can see, you'll need a press or very large vise to push out the shaft. You may need something with a slightly smaller diameter to push the shaft through.

As for the bearing, you'll probably need an inside bearing puller (pilot bearing puller) Pilot Bearing Puller - 5740mit

Unless you can bang it out from the bottom on the edge of the bearing.

You might be able to get a lawn mower shop to press it out for you or a non-chain auto shop.

That's what I can tell from the pic.

OK, thanks. More'n likely I'll buy a new set, though I'll try a couple of the things you've suggested that simply require force.
Appreciate the help!

The bearing is a press fit and usually banging doesn't work well. In otherwords, the shaft is 0.001 undersized from the bearing. You'll have to press the new shaft in place too.

With a car wheel bearing, it's a lot easier because you have easy access to the back side. With a clutch pilot bearing in a car, the bearing is pressed into a blind race and thus an inside bearing puller has to be used.

OK, let me report that with your first input I figured A) there was no arcane latching system and B) I had little to lose, so I took a bigger hammer to it. (on the top end of part 13, above). Got the shaft out that way. Turned it over and dropped a big dowel down the shaft and whacked on that and popped out the bearing.

Got to check I did not ding the threads on the shaft, but otherwise looks like I can use the two parts. If banging works in reverse... don't have a big enough vise to try pressing. Though there is a friendly shop pretty nearby, now that I think of it.

... just to tidy up the matter...

I did ding up the threads and had to get a new shaft/bearing kit. These went into the new mandrel rather easily with a little tapping. After that, they kept falling out.
What I DID have to go to the shop for was to have it explained to me that the screw holes in the aluminum mandrel were not in fact supposed to have threads and that simple tightening of the screws with a wrench would cut the threads.

Eventually all nice and back together.\

What I really like about this machine is that I (not especially a mechanic) seem to be able to understand it in diagram and in reality, I can reach what I have to reach, and I can take apart and put together what I need to. (So far!)

What I do not like about dealing with Sears is that the only help you can get from them is A) order parts or B) arrange for a house call. The only repository of knowledge is the repair people, and you don't apparently talk to them before they arrive.

Makes this forum a nice thing!

Thanks for the assistance, sure I will be asking again.

Flatcat47

If you use a Press be mindful of the fact you are working with aluminum.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flatcat47

Let's see how my tech prowess is.....

If the pic comes through, I'm trying to get the 13 and the 15 outa the 14

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OK, I am stuck doing the same things as you are however, I am not able to get the nut off the top of the belt pulley that is attached to the mandrel. I just about tore my biceps trying to get this damn thing. I don't have anything to grasp on the underside as my "flower" key is completely gone *darn aluminum*.

Any ideas? Thanks!!

For what its worth - I read this before I looked at mine ( I purchased just the mandrel online)

One little tap to the top of the threaded rod (#13) on top and mine fell out the bottom. Then down the opposite end of the tube I pushed a pipe gently and the top bearing came out. Both parts went gently into the new mandrel with a little tapping.

The parts are cheep - I took a saws-all to the mandrel and shaft - then replaced all with a new mandrel, rod and bearings. You should replace the mandrel if a bearing goes bad - often the clearance on the mandre versus the bearing has been changed and you will wear out the top pully and spine that work together if there is any play in it - I learned this the hard way.

I took a saws-all to the mandrel and shaft because of this problem. The parts are cheap enough and you should replace the mandrel if the bearing goes out. The clearance between the bearing and mandrel housing should be very tight. If you don't you will be sorry later when you wear it out prematurely - I learned this by experience. New pars, new fit and away you go.