1998 Accord with 100k miles loses power and engine cuts out without warning. It can happen anytime, however seems to be worse after taking a short drive and parking for a few minutes to run a short errand. When the car dies it can be going any speed and the accelerator is no longer responsive and many of the instrument panel lights come on. If I shift to neutral or pull over and try to start it immediately it will crank but not catch. If I wait 3-4 minutes it will start again but it often runs very roughly for a few seconds and stalls again. After two or three attempts of restart and stall, it will start and run very strongly-like nothing is wrong. This problem has been occurring intermittently for more than one year. It used to happen about once per month and was very intermittent. Recently, it has been occurring many times per week almost daily.

The car has had the 1997-99 HONDA IGNITION SWITCH Campaign recall issue fixed already. Based on the other information on this message board, I plan to replace the Main Relay. (Is this also called the fuel pump relay? Does it matter which manufacturer I choose Tyco, Mitsuba?)

I am also suspicious of an immobilizer malfunction since the car runs so strongly most of the time. Any ideas on how to disable the immobilizer? One less thing to worry about.

What else should I try? It's difficult to give up on this car since it only has 100k miles and is paid off. Please help.

. Replace the main relay, which is located to the left of the steering column. Mitsuba is OEM. Yes, it is the relay controlling the fuel pump, among other things.

. Replace the Ignition Control Module and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

I would also replace the rotor and distributor cap, while you have the distributor open.

I have a 99 accord, was doing the same thing, replaced the ignition wiring from the fuse box to the ignition ($51.00 at auto zone). This is the immobilizer malfunction you were talking about. Mine also was putting out an egr malfunction code. I changed the wiring and it fixed the problem, car no longer dies and the check engine light went off with out touching the egr valve at all, which is great because I didn't waste the money on the $100 egr valve trying to fix it.