I have my plumbing all hooked up and it's working fine. Before I modify the drawers to fit around the plumbing I was wondering if there was any way to raise the p trap and waste drain without tearing into the wall. I had to add a 6" tailpipe extender to my sink and if I was able to raise it 3" instead of 6" I won't have to modify one of the drawers.
I know the p trap has to be below the waste line but can I raise the waste line with pvc adaptors?Attachment 8918

Attachment 8919

There's no way you can raise the stub-out without opening up the wall and cutting into the stack. The only way that I know of get around that is to put a 90 on the stub-out, bring it up and build a "S" trap. And even that's depending on if you have enough room behind the drawers to install a 90 and bring it up to another elbo. Be aware that "S" traps are illegal, but that's the only way without notching the drawers or shelf. Good luck, Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

There's no way you can raise the stub-out without opening up the wall and cutting into the stack. The only way that I know of get around that is to put a 90 on the stub-out, bring it up and build a "S" trap. And even that's depending on if you have enough room behind the drawers to install a 90 and bring it up to another elbo. Be aware that "S" traps are illegal, but that's the only way without notching the drawers or shelf. Good luck, Tom

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The vanity sits out 5.5" from the back wall. The dresser wasn't deep enough to accommodate a sink so I built a countertop for it.

Do you have enough room to simply extend the tailpiece? Regards, Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

Do you have enough room to simply extend the tailpiece? Regards, Tom

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The waste line stub that comes out of the wall is 5" long and then connects to a 22.5 and then another elbow to connect to p trap. I already extended to tailpiece from the sink but want to eliminate about 3" of that by raising stub out with elbows and still have a p Attachment 8920trap

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The vanity sits out 5.5" from the back wall.

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If that means that there is 5.5" between the wall and the back of the vanity,(it's hard to tell from the picture), two 45 should raise the waste line approximately 3" and should require 5" to install.

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Originally Posted by hkstroud

If that means that there is 5.5" between the wall and the back of the vanity,(it's hard to tell from the picture), two 45 should raise the waste line approximately 3" and should require 5" to install.

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I was try to draw something like you did but couldn't. Great job! That's exactly what I wanted to do. Can you see the way the p trap is sideways? Is there a way to have it run perpendicular?The drawing is terrible but I want to angle to the right then go up and out so p trap is aligned behind tailpiece to sink.Attachment 8922

A short piece of pipe (3 to 5") between the 45's will increase the rise, then roll that assembly clock-wise to decrease the rise back to 3" and move horizontally to the right about 3". You will have to play around with it to find correct length of pipe and correct amount of roll. Or two 90's rolled to the right.

The only problem with Harolds solution is that he has built you a "S" trap that's illegal as I explained in my first post.
You ask,

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I already extended to tailpiece from the sink but want to eliminate about 3" of that by raising stub out with elbows and still have a "P" trap?

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No way! The second you put a upturned fitting on the stubout you will have started to build a "S" trap. If all this is are cosmetics then I would keep what you have. Regards, Tom

Harold,
Make a wall line and draw a stubout coming out of it. Now draw in a elbo looking up with a short piece for a raiser. Now draw in another elbo on top of the raiser the pick up the trap. Now draw in the "P" trap. What's it look like? That's right, Sports Fans, the second you place any up turned fitting to raise the stubout you have begun to build a "S" trap. Sorry Harold, Didn't mean to rain all over your parade. Tom

I deleted that post, which apparently you read before I could delete it, because it occurred to me that I didn't know the precise definition of an "S" trap. I Goggled "S" trap and came up with an explanation by some plumber down in Florida that explained it very well. I was not disagreeing, ( I make it a practice not to disagree with someone who is never wrong) just didn't know the precise definition.

Of course, given the short length of that lateral, and me being the cantankerous
Old f@#% that I am, I'd do it anyway.

Cheers,

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I make it a practice not to disagree with someone who is never wrong)

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I hope you don't think I'm not just some "know it all" that takes pleasure in correcting posts. If you were offended I apologize. As for;

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Of course, given the short length of that lateral, and me being the cantankerous
Old f@#% that I am, I'd do it anyway

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You still would have built a "S" trap but I got to confess.
My companion,Teresa Marie, owns a house on the water she's remodeling. She bought a real nice vanity that she wanted me to install. Problem! The stubout was too low and if I trapped from the stubout I would have to notch the shelf. I built the neatest little "S" trap you ever saw out of copper.
I had to install the vanity that way but this gal wants to install a "S" trap for cosmetic reasons and I couldn't go along with that. Again, I'm sorry if I ruffled any feathers. That certainly wasn't my intention. Have a great week end! Tom

Oh no, didn't mean it that way, it was meant as acknowledgment of you knowledge and expertise, I am familiar with your post going back to the AskMe.com days. Just can't imagine you ever being incorrect about plumbing. That Florida plumber Google pulled up for a precise definition of a "S" trap you of course. A failed attempt at humor on my part. Guess I should have said, "I know better than to disagree with someone as knowledgeable as you".

My apologies,

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Originally Posted by speedball1

I hope you don't think I'm not just some "know it all" that takes pleasure in correcting posts. If you were offended I apologize. As for;

you still would have built a "S" trap but I gotta confess.
My companion,Teresa Marie, owns a house on the water she's remodeling. She bought a real nice vanity that she wanted me to install. Problem! The stubout was too low and if I trapped from the stubout I would have to notch the shelf. I built the neatest little "S" trap ya ever saw out of copper.
I had to install the vanity that way but this gal wants to install a "S" trap for cosmetic reasons and I couldn't go along with that. Again, I'm sorry if I ruffled any feathers. That certainly wasn't my intention. Have a great week end! tom

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Okay guys I won't change the plumbing. I guess that's why they don't show anyone doing that when installing an antique vanity. I will cut the drawers :( . I am learning so much .

One last thought Patty:

You could also cut the pvc pipe coming out of the wall so only 1" of pipe remained. Then install the ptrap onto the pipe directly (no 22.5 or 45 degree fitting), then push the trap tight to the wall (so u part of the trap is parallel to the wall).

Then come out of the trap using 1 street 45 and 1 regular 45 to OFFSET into the drain for sink... you may need to cut the tailpiece from the lavatory pop-up assembly to make this all fit.

You would also need a street desanco fitting (maybe a regular desanco fitting) to attach the pvc to the tailpiece of the lavatory pop-up assembly (see pic... may need to TILT your head to see the pic.).

NOW....what does this accomplish for you...???

NOT MUCH!! But it will allow you to cut out LESS of the drawer!!

If you decide it is worth trying, DRY FIT all first!

Just a thought!! ;)

Have a good day all! Mark.

Hey Patty,

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Okay guys I won't change the plumbing. I guess that's why they don't show anyone doing that when installing an antique vanity. I will cut the drawers .

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Ya know you still have the option of installing a "S" trap if notching the drawers is the only other option. My friend had augured against notching into the shelf If I could build a "S" trap so she wouldn't have to. In the end I installed one and the vanity's draining just fine. So you have the choice. It goes against my nature to tell you to install a "S" trap but if nitching the drawers is a no-no then I would exercise my option. Good luck in whatever you decide. Tom

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

One last thought Patty:

You could also cut the pvc pipe coming out of the wall so only 1" of pipe remained. Then install the ptrap onto the pipe directly (no 22.5 or 45 degree fitting), then push the trap tight to the wall (so u part of the trap is parallel to the wall).

Then come out of the trap using 1 street 45 and 1 regular 45 to OFFSET into the drain for sink....you may need to cut the tailpiece from the lavatory pop-up assembly to make this all fit.

You would also need a street desanco fitting (maybe a regular desanco fitting) to attach the pvc to the tailpiece of the lavatory pop-up assembly (see pic....may need to TILT your head to see the pic.).

NOW....what does this accomplish for you...???

NOT MUCH!!!! But it will allow you to cut out LESS of the drawer!!!
I have cut and left 1 " coming out of the wall. The trap comes off by unscrewing it from the tailpiece and the 90 with threads. The 90 and 22? are cemented. I will get a 90 with threads and cement it to the 1 " stub -connect trap- swivel it paralell to wall and.... wait a minute the trap I have has that fitting built into it to accept the tailpiece. so do i need one that will accept the street 45 and regular 45 to tailpiece and desanco fitting for tailpiece?Attachment 8948

Attachment 8949

Attachment 8950
If you decide it is worth trying, DRY FIT all first!

Just a thought!!! ;)

Have a good day all!! Mark.

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Thanks

Exactly Patty... exactly.

Just get a REGULAR union ptrap and then install the 45s and get that desanco in my pic. (also pick up a street desanco).
Then prime/cement the new union 90 onto 1" stubout, put trap parallel to wall, etc.

You need an 1.5" PVC x 1.25" desanco fitting (or one that transitions to both by having a large and a smaller washer).

You should also pick up a small can of pipe dope or rectorseal or similar to apply to the threads of the union trap (better seal than plastic on plastic... ;) ).

Let us know how it goes! MARK

PS... NICE STRAIGHT CUT ON THAT PIPE!!!!. You're hired!

.

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Exactly Patty...exactly.

Just get a REGULAR union ptrap and then install the 45s and get that desanco in my pic. (also pick up a street desanco).
Then prime/cement the new union 90 onto 1" stubout, put trap parallel to wall, etc.

You need an 1.5" PVC x 1.25" desanco fitting (or one that transitions to both by having a large and a smaller washer).

You should also pick up a small can of pipe dope or rectorseal or similar to apply to the threads of the union trap (better seal than plastic on plastic...;) ).

Let us know how it goes!! MARK

PS...NICE STRAIGHT CUT ON THAT PIPE!!!!. You're hired!!

.

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Pipe dope? Are you kidding? No I use that on all my screw on plumbing connections. Learned that from my pool pump!! On my way to HD. Let you know shortly.
Thanks,
Patty
I just happened to pick up a close quarters hacksaw which I have needed numerous times and didn't have. I tend to be a kind of perfectionist!

I can tell... woman after my own heart Patty! Good luck!