Ask Me Help Desk - Grounding an outlet

I recently hooked up a new gas range for my mom, Being the cook-top & oven are both gas the only power it needs is for the igniter’s, light, timer, etc.

The receptacle behind her range is only a two prong outlet, I added one of those ground plug adapters & I still got no power to the range & I knew there was power at the outlet! Just to be sure the range was working right I ran an extension cord across the kitchen to a grounded outlet, and everything worked fine! I then double checked the outlet & figured out that it was only a two wire circuit without a ground wire.

I talked to a service tech at the store my mom got the range from & he said that there’s a safety device on most new gas ranges that won’t allow them to work correctly without a ground. I explained my situation to him & he stated that all I needed to do is run a ground wire from the outlet box to the water pipe!

I replaced the old outlet with a 3-prong outlet & ran a separate ground wire to the same main water line that the house service is grounded to, And everything works fine!

After reading some of these posts about grounding/bonding I’m concerned if this could create a problem?

You should be fine but you might have found a ground at the panel if it was closer than the water main. What is the houses wired with, conduit? While you are working at moms check to see if there is a proper jumper from the pipes on each side of the meter. If there isn't one you should install one.

Did you install the 3-way adapter correctly. Place the screw of the outlet box cover on the tab of the adapter? Just a thought.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ballengerb1

What is the houses wired with, conduit?

The house is wired with standard romex wiring, The main water pipe is almost underneath the range so I was able to run a separate 14awg ground wire (15amp circuit) about 5' through the floor & connect it to the water pipe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ballengerb1

While you are working at moms check to see if there is a proper jumper from the pipes on each side of the meter. If there isn't one you should install one.

Yea that’s there near the front of the house & there’s another ground line that’s near the back of the house. One thing I can see that may be a problem is even thou the connection to the water pipe is only about 10' away, where the water line goes through the wall & into the earth/ground is probably 60' from the connection?
Maybe that’s why there’s the other ground located about 20' away that goes to a ground rod?

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

Did you install the 3-way adapter correctly. Place the screw of the outlet box cover on the tab of the adapter? Just a thought.

Yea I did that, But being there's no ground at the box it didn't work!

Dwall,

(See below)Nongrounding Receptacle Replacement or Branch Circuit Extensions. The equipment grounding conductor of a grounding-type receptacle or a branch-circuit extension shall be permitted to be connected to any of the following:

(1) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode system as described in 250.50

(2) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode conductor

(3) The equipment grounding terminal bar within the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates

(4) For grounded systems, the grounded service conductor within the service equipment enclosure

(5) For ungrounded systems, the grounding terminal bar within the service equipment enclosure

Article 250 says:All grounding electrodes as described in 250.52(A)(1) through (A)(7) that are present at each building or structure served shall be bonded together to form the grounding electrode system. Where none of these grounding electrodes exist, one or more of the grounding electrodes specified in 250.52(A)(4) through (A)(8) shall be installed and used.
Article 250.52(A)(4)-(A)(8)

I will list only the ones you may have available

250.52(A)
1. Interior metal water piping located more than 1.52 m (5 ft) from the point of entrance to the building shall not be used as a part of the grounding electrode system or as a conductor to interconnect electrodes that are part of the grounding electrode system.
5. Rod and Pipe Electrodes. Rod and pipe electrodes shall not be less than 2.44 m (8 ft) in length and shall consist of the following materials.

(a) Grounding electrodes of pipe or conduit shall not be smaller than metric designator 21 (trade size ¾) and, where of steel, shall have the outer surface galvanized or otherwise metal-coated for corrosion protection.

(b) Grounding electrodes of stainless steel and copper or zinc coated steel shall be at least 15.87 mm ( in.) in diameter, unless listed and not less than 12.70 mm (½ in.) in diameter.

3. You should not use:
1. Metal underground gas piping systems

2. Aluminum

You said:

Quote:

ran a separate ground wire to the same main water line that the house service is grounded to, And everything works fine!

If this does not meet NEC 250.52(A)1, then you are in violation

Quote:

Originally Posted by Washington1

250.52(A)
1. Interior metal water piping located more than 1.52 m (5 ft) from the point of entrance to the building shall not be used as a part of the grounding electrode system or as a conductor to interconnect electrodes that are part of the grounding electrode system.

I knew about the 5' on the water pipe & I’m sure that needs to be fixed per code! As for the second ground line which is about 6 awg copper & runs to a copper ground rod in the back yard, I'm not sure if that one alone is sufficient?

My mom’s house is 50+ years old & still has a fuse panel in it. The house was inspected about 10 years ago & at that time all she needed to upgrade was the fuse panel with those screw-in adapters so that you can't over-fuse the lines! The inspector told her that if she ever sold the house it would need to be up-graded to breakers before she could sell it.

I also know that a lot of code changes were made in the past 10 years so that one about keeping the fuse panel until you sell may also have changed! For now being that she doesn’t plan on selling the house, I’m just concerned with any safety issues for now!

Dwall, I would not worry too much about the house being up to current code. It was code when it was built and unless you do a majopr remodel you are grandfathered. A buyer may bargain to have you up to current code but that's just a bargaining chip.