I just installed a Swanstone 3260L and don't want to drill into the front edge for the shower doors. I have ripped down a 2x4 and installed 1/4" cbu on 3 sides. I will tape and thinset edges and apply Redguard. I want to know if it is OK to use liguid nails to attach bottom edge of 2x4 which has no cbu on it to the concrete floor in front of the shower base and then run silicone along the edge where it meets the shower floor. I plan on tiling this to match the shower walls and install my shower doors on top. This will give a little more elbow room in the shower.

What kind of shower door are you installing? I use Sterling most of the time, on the lower track is not screwed or drill at all, just chalk. The two verticle jams do get screwed into the wall by drilling and then installing stainless screws.

If you choose to use the 2x4 as a curb for your shower door, I would recommend CA3600 - High Performance Water Based Construction Adhesive with Superior Bond Strength from HILTI.

Additionally, I would counter sink two lag bolts into the concrete floor, although it might be an overkill if your shower door is not that heavy, but since you are going to tile the curb, I'd ensure the 2x4 wasn't going anywhere.

Definitely run your seal of silicone along the edge once it's down.

I was told by another contractor that he doesn't use wooden curbs anymore and has gone to laying a concrete curb. I don't think this is necessary in your situation.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

What kind of shower door are you installing? I use Sterling most of the time, on the lower track is not screwed or drill at all, just chalk. The two verticle jams do get screwed into the wall by drilling and then installing stainless screws.

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I knew that because I removed the ones from the tub/shower. I originally was just going to do that to outside of the tub when I realized the tub enclosure was old and need to replace doors anyway. That's why I ripped it out. I really just want the look and the extra elbow room. Just need to know how to do it properly. I will be getting a sterling shower door.

I am still confused. You aren't trying to reuse the old tub doors are you, they are too short for a shower. The base track of a sliding shower door is not screwed into anything, its glued with caulk/adhesive right to the Swanstone curb. When you say extra elbow room I start to think you are trying to put the doors outside the shower pan rather than straddling the curb like Swanstone instructs.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

I am still confused. You aren't trying to reuse the old tub doors are you, they are too short for a shower. The base track of a sliding shower door is not screwed into anything, its glued with caulk/adhesive right to the Swanstone curb. When you say extra elbow room I start to think you are trying to put the doors outside the shower pan rather than straddling the curb like Swanstone instructs.

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I am not trying to use the old 25 year old tub doors. I will be purchasing new. I do want the doors on the outside and I don't see where I would run into any problems as long as I caulked the edge well. The new curb with tile will be the exact height of the swanstone curb. Should it be sloped any for drainage or just let the bottom track on the shower doors do it's job?

To be straight with you I'd never do this kind of install for hire or for myself. I don't think it will like good or function well. Sorry I can't be of more help to you.

In a normal application, the curb should slope slightly and the shower door track should allow the drip to runoff further into the shower pan. Since you are customizing this , the only thing I would recommend is to use a shower pan vinyl strip over the wooden curb (under the tile) and allow the vinyl to create a "lip" over into the edge of the swanstone curb.

The tricky part is to cover this vinyl with some sort of water proof molding that will allow the water to run into the swanstone curb and still look presentable.

I don't know if that would be a trick or fricking magic. Has anyone ever seen this type of install before, there's a reason for that. If you needed more elbow room then instaed of a Swanstone 3260 you could have bough a 3460 or even a 3660 but I see your space between the pan and the toilet is tight. What would the measurement be between the new cirb and the centerline of the toilet.

Good point ballengerb1, there must be at least a 12-15 inch clearance between the toilet and wall or shower door.

No range on that measurement, 15" centerline to wall surface minuimum. It looks like there ios 16" at best right now without installing a curb.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

No range on that measurement, 15" centerline to wall surface minuimum. It looks like there ios 16" at best right now without installing a curb.

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I don't know what that means.
Patty

Find the exact center of the toilet bowl, measure from that point to the shower door surface once you build your new curb. That distance must be at least 15".

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

Find the exact center of the toilet bowl, measure from that point to the shower door surface once you build your new curb. That distance must be at least 15".

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I am so LUCKY!! I have 15.5" once the shower door is installed on top of my curb. I will submit a picture when I'm done.
Thanks for all your help with this bathroom project!
Patty

Yes, please do. Let's see this custom shower/shower door/curb in action!

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Originally Posted by DaBaAd

Yes, please do.  Let's see this custom shower/shower door/curb in action!

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Here are some picture of the other bathroom I did. Took out everything but the tub. Converted linen closet into vanity area and even ran all the lighting and switches. Male the fish towel holders and light fixture. Tiled the walls and handpainted the fish on them. Laid a new vinyl tiled floor(the tiles were free). I know I can do the other bathroom. I even framed the mirror.
Patty

I know people think nI'm incapable of doing this. Here is a concrete floor that I faux finished and applied 4 coats of poly on. This was done 5 years ago and is still holding up.