I've had a lot of water and sewer problems recently. Long story short, I ended up with a sump pump in my basement (there never was one before). That basement area is unfinished.

Currently, the sump pump is running off an extension cord. The pump manual specifies that it should be installed within 6 feet on an outlet. I also want the pump on a dedicated circuit (it's actually closer to the panel - ~10 feet than it is to the current outlet - ~20 feet).

My plan was to install a new 20 amp non-GFCI circuit a few feet from the pump. I figured that the pump is fixed equipment and I'd want it to keep running regardless of if there was a ground fault - want a dry basement no matter what. I could also move my basement fridge to that outlet then, since it's currently on a GFCI and has tripped it before (no actual ground fault).

The pump's instructions recommend putting it on a GFCI circuit. Should I listen to the pump manufacturer and risk having the pump trip and a basement flood? I'd like some more opinions / to know what is commonly done.

Thanks!

If the pump manufacturer recommends a GFCI protected circuit, then you should do that.

But I suggest that you use a GFCI receptacle rather than a GFCI breaker.

Don,

Don't worry. I always use GFCI receptacles instead of breakers.

I have had the unfortunate luck of not having a sump pump actually run using a GFCI breaker OR outlet. They trip the minute the pump starts. Every time.

I would suggest what I have done although I am certainly NOT an expert on this.

I had one installed on a GFCI dedicated line and then ADDED a sump pump back up unit. The unit runs for many hours and is battery operated. There are many different prices for these backups. The one recommended to me by a plumber friend cost $200; $100 for the unit and another $100 for the battery. The battery charges itself and has many gages to let you know all is fine and will beep loudly when the poser is out and it is working.

Mybe $200 bucks is high, but I will tell you ---I certainly have peace of mind now. A long time ago I had a split level home with a sump pump. Storm, power went out, 3 feet of water on the carpet and furniture floating... insurance paid quickly AND tehn raise dmy rates a LOT, much more than $200 buck...

Stringer

I am NOT an expert on this...

But I had a sump pump fail years ago; 3 feet of water in my old split level, furniture floating around on top of waves. Insurance paid quickly and then raised my rates over $250 a year.

When I built this house 3 years ago it had a sump pump on a dedicated line with a GFCI from the builder. A plumber friend recommend a battery back up unit; $200 total. $100 for the unit and another $100 for the battery. Many gages that let you know that it is working and charging. When the power goes out it runs for many hours and beeps loudly to let you know it IS working. Now I have peace of mind and no hassle. Even less than the price increase from the other insurance company; 15 years ago.

I'm not sure I'm ready to take the financial plunge of putting in a battery backup system. I've spent almost $11,000 on plumbing repairs this month!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bolt in blue

I'm not sure I'm ready to take the financial plunge of putting in a battery backup system. I've spent almost $11,000 on plumbing repairs this month!

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I can understand that, 11 grand huh...

Well maybe consider it for a future venture, it does give me plenty of peace knowing it's there.

EDIT: By the way, sorry about the double post. For some reason when I typed the first one it didn't appear after I hit "submit" so I thought it didn't register. I've been posting for a long time now and that hasn't happen before... but I apologize.

Stringer

From what I've read around these forums, the 2008 codes requires the sump be connected to a single socket GFCI outlet on a dedicated line. But prior to the 2008 code, it would just need to be a single socket outlet.

Basically, the idea is so you can't plug another appliance onto that circuit. GFCI is just the latest twist on that.

You only have to follow the codes that are accepted by your local building department. Our dept still uses the 2003 code so check with your building inspector.