Hi everyone, this has been a great place for help. We noticed a leak in our ceiling last night, and what we found is a "OLD" 90 degree copper elbow is leaking. Right at the joint. It is pretty tight up there, with the floor joices al around it, so I wouldn't want to solder. Is there any kind of plastic or (pex) elbows I could simply attach after I cut the old 90 off? Thanks everyone...

The pic which you can hopefully view here is a shark bite connector and after using a few I think they are the best thing in the world for tight repair areasand 100 other apps. Anyway try this I think it might be exactly what you need for your application if not postback and we will figure it out. If the pic didn't show up I will try again but they are called sharkbite connectors and in my area all plumbing stores including home depot have them Lowe's is running a little behind I guess. Let me know if I missed anything GOOD LUCK, AC.

There is a chance that after you cut out the old elbow you will not have enough pipe length left to insert a Sharkbite or anything else. I know you said you don't want to solder but it might be worth you effort to drain the system and try to resolder without disassembling the fitting, just clean it, flux it and apply more solder. This has worked for me far more times than not.

Before you cut into the pipe you might want to check this out; Indumar - STOP IT® Pipe Repair System **or** this one on cold solder,: Jackson Industries Good luck, Tom

Ballenger Good point about not having enough left to lock in (you need about an inch of pipe inside the fitting to lock on sharkbite). I was thinking the sharkbite elbow was a little longer than the standard copper elbow but I've never actually compared the two side by side but it definitely should be checked before cutting. As far as the products Tom(speedball) is referring to I have never used them but if he recommends them I would definitely take a look at it. I know I'm going to check them out. Have a good evening AC

Hey guys, I just returned home from racing last night... I came 2nd in the main event... WOOHOO! Anyway, I took a picture of the leak, so if you don't mind giving me some pointers and difficulty level, that would be great. Here's the pic...
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/g...0/DSCF0016.jpg

After seeing your pic I would go with either ballenger or speedballs option like I said before I haven't used the cold solder or repair epoxy before but it might work if it were me I would try ballengers advice and try to reflux and resolder I guess yhat depends on how comfortable you are with sweating pipes. You could use a metal shield of some kind to keep heat off other pipe and electrical if that's a concern it does look pretty tight but I think it can be done. Ive used anything from soda cans to aluminum scraps to small steel plates as heat shields when soldering. A wet rag can work also just depends on what your doing. If you don't like that idea at all then try speedballs Idea I checked those links out last night and I might try it myself next time the need arises. Im sure ballenger and speedball will be around later but that's what I would do. GOOD LUCK, AC

Oh almost forgot be sure you have that insulation out the way and the electrical either clear or shielded don't want to cause any new problems. Let us know what you think.

Hey Leeboy:

If you want to done with this once and for all... so you never worry about this again... you can either hire a plumber to come in and replace/solder both elbows in the picture with new elbows and couplings... OR...

You could use a mini cutter tubing cutter (see pic.) to cut the copper pipes and use the sharkbit fittings that ac101 showed you. Only problem I see to that is that the pipe on the right has a dent in it so would need to cut just above that (should still be enough room to get a sharkbite coupling on).

Also, may need to open the ceiling into the next joist bay to make clean cut and then attach couplings in there... to elbows to couplings and should be all set.

I am not a huge fan of installing sharkbite fittings in the ceiling and then covering over them with ceiling... but if must be done then so be it... ;)

So, my opinion, I would get someone in to solder/repair this correctly (obviously the last guy did not really kjnow how to solder). Otherwise, you can try this on your own with sharkbites... will need 2-3/4" sharkbite elbows, 4-3/4" sharkbite couplings, 5ft of 3/4" copper tubing TYPE L, a mini-tubing cutter (can make all cuts on the copper pipe with the mini cutter or can also purchase a regular tubing cutter (see pic.) to cut pieces of pipe OUT of ceiling).

My opinion only, of couse.

Let me know what you think... MARK

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Hey guys, love the advice. I can get at the rest of the pipes horizontally because the basement is unfinished. He part going vertical goes straight up to the kitchen sink. So if I had to cut it back farther, it wouldn't be a problem.

Well, tomorrows my day off... So, what do you think... Shark bite coupler or re-solder.. I am up for either..

Try the solder directions I gave and if it doesn't work you can always go with Sharkbite for about an extra $12 over soldering.

Go buy some pipe repair kit. It's a fiberglass type repair. Shut off the water, mix the epoxy, spread it over the fiberglass, wrap the fiberglass around the pipe and let it dry. ALL DONE. YES IT WORKS. Used it several years ago without a problem. No cutting no sweating and no worries.

Those joints were not soldered correctly to begin with... cut them out and then, if necessary, use the mini cutter and sharkbite fittings.

If you are going to solder those fittings over again like Bob suggested you need to know that those pipes are back pitched and will require you to not only drain the lines, but ALSO to BOIL the remaining water in those pipes out before you can solder it... and that can be very tricky!

Good luck... MARK

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Actually, what could be easier. At least for me is to cut the fitting off and because they won't line up any more is to get some 5/8 OD soft tubing. Cut a larger section out of the horizontal and use a coupling without the stop.

Test fit the elbow and a piece of soft tubing and cut the horizontal pipe so it mates. Then slide the coupling on and do a test fit.

Solder the elbow to the tubing separately and bend to fit and put the coupling on the horizontal piece of pipe. (solder prep/soldering goes here)

This is tough for a first time repair.

Somebody else needs to explain this better. Basically replace some rigid tubing with some soft copper tubing to make up the difference in alignment.

Hey guys, just thought of something... The pipe that is leaking, goes to our kitchen sink (Cold side). And where its leaking is only 3-4 feet away from the bottom of the faucet. And our kitchen faucet was changed to a brand new one 1 1/2 years ago. Could I not cut the elbow out and put a compression fitted coupler on, then run that silver flex hose and screw directly on the faucett? (just a idea) Or , how about just trying to re-heat the old solder and maybe it might drip in and seal it... Im tackling this tomrrow... Thanks

Re-heating only seems to work if the fitting has recently been soldered. At least that's my experience.

The leak sets up corrosion and solder won't wet (stick) to a corroded pipe.

Just get the materials and practice.

If you're a little hesitant about your quality of work get a hose connector, a pice of pipe and a cap for your first project. Connect your work to the hose bib in the laundry sing or outside and see if it leaks.

Well, thanks a lot everyone... I decided to go with a sharkbite connector and... AND... NO LEAKS!! Thanks for the great advice...

Glad it worked out !