I have a "jet pump" for our grey water cistern. I have problems with the pressure switch. It has a "Square D" pressure switch on it. When I manually tun the switch on "things work" but when I rely on it working automatically, sometimes it does and more often it doesn't. Especially if it is left overnight. I have "fiddled with" the two nuts on this switch, but am not able to get it working consistently. The switch is fairly new, but the points may need cleaning as it was going on and off rapidly at times and they may be burned. I think the pipe is clear. How do I adjust these nuts to get it working consistently. Please.

Not real familiar with a grey water cistern. Are you pumping into a pressure tank with this?

I live in the BVI. We have cisterns for water. The grey water cistern is for the garden. We pump water from this to hoses and taps around the property.

When do the points go "off and on rapidly", when water is being drawn or does it happen practically all of the time?

Additionally, does the pump drain the cistern or does water stay in the cistern all the time?

My understanding of a cistern is that it collects runoff. Is that correct?

Practically all the time - depending upon how I set the nuts. At present it is going on and off occasionally, but if I turn a hose on it won't run. When we have enough rainfall there is water in the cistern all the time. It collects from the pool area. It has been empty in the past

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I think the pipe is clear. How do I adjust these nuts to get it working consistently.

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I was doing just great until I ran into the word "consistently". I think it night be bad contacts in the pressure switch. Sand and clean them and see if that doesn't help. In the meantime let's adjust that control box.
I'm going to assume that you have a "square D pumptrol,(see image) and that it has a 20 PSI cut in and a 40 PSI cut off setting. First turnoff the power at the breaker box, then pull the cover off the pressure switch and you will see two spring loaded bolts secured with nylon nuts. One tall, one short. To increase the cut in pressure, turn the nut on the tall bolt down. To increase the cut out pressure,(that's the one that will give you more pressure) turn the nut on the short bolt down. . Good luck Tom

Three of the four sets of points seem OK. One, the one closest to the pump -- one of those on the "small nut" seems burned. On the "old" switch, which I kept, three seem all right. The fourth (the same fourth) is grey - burned?
I just got the pump running by turning the on-off switch. It ran while water flowed (into our pool-trough). Then stopped. (As it should ?). I then turned the hose on but it wouldn't start automatically.
I turned both the nuts down (tighter) but am not sure how tight to make them.

I would simply replace the pressure switch. Good luck, Tom

If I can find one I will.
Cheers

Everitt, a couple of thoughts to add to what Speedball has written.

With one point burned on both switches, is it possible you have a 110 volt pump and only one "leg" of the switch is being used?

Also, if the pump is cutting off and on when water is not being drawn, I would look at the check valve possibly being faulty. The key here is "when water is not being drawn". The check valve could be leaking and allowing the pressure tank to simply leak back down into the cistern, pump has to cut back on, leaks back down, pump cuts on... well, you get the idea.

Look here for switch possibilities:

Square D 9013FSG2J21 Water Pump Pressure Switch