So I read a bunch of posts and am just a little confused. I'm getting this white plastic-like material in my faucets and shower head that keeps blocking them up. I think it is my dip tube but am not sure? I just bought this unit so I have no idea when it was drained last. Will flushing help temporarily until I can get a new one? Should I flush it or drain it. Any advice on how? Turn the water and breaker off? Leave it all on and drain it? Can the dip tube be replaced or do I need a new unit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by amricca

So I read a bunch of posts and am just a little confused. I'm getting this white plastic-like material in my faucets and shower head that keeps blocking them up. I think it is my dip tube but am not sure? I just bought this unit so I have no idea when it was drained last. Will flushing help temporarily until I can get a new one? Should I flush it or drain it. Any advice on how? Turn the water and breaker off? Leave it all on and drain it? Can the dip tube be replaced or do I need a new unit.

---

Yes I think your dip tube has disintegrated and is now clogging your areators and no I don't think you need a new water heater. You have a plastic dip tube in your water heater that's gone bad. The dip tube is a white plastic tube that sets right below the cold water inlet and directs the cold water to the bottom of the tank to be heated and raise to the top. If you have soldering skills and the equipment to solder there should be no problem in replacing a dip tube. Simply cut the cold water line and unscrew the fittings and the dip tube will be directly underneath. If home de4pot doesn't carry a dip tube, a plumbing shop will surely have one. You will need to tell them the size of your heater, 40 gallons or whatever. Don't forget to flush out your heater and clean the screens on your aerators. This should be looked after as soon as possible. If the tube isn't replaced the cold water coming in will mix with the hot water waiting to be drawn and cool it down. Now about flushing your heater.

For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by FLUSHING NOT DRAINING on a regular schedule. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white or yellow grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures that are affected . Now pull each aerator and clean the screens. Be sure you put them back togather the same way you took them out. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps, Tom

I do not have soldiering skills, think I'll call a plumber. Any idea of what to expect this to cost? Someone told me to kill the power when I drain it so I don't burn out the heating element, that scared and confused me after reading some posts here. I'll flush it in the meantime.

It shouldn't take more t6hen a hour to cut into the liune and replace the dip tube. The tough part will be flushing your system from all that plastic. If you have faucets that still work I would not use them until the lines have been flushed clear. Otherwise, you will have to start tearing into faucets to clean out the old dip tube pieces. And yes! You shut the power off when you drain a water heater but you don't have to shut the power off to flush it. Good luck, Tom