My house is on a concrete slab. Toilet in question is in master bath with ceramic tile. The toilet bowl's water level, not the tank, would drop slowly, even over night & while no one was home, but it never seemed to completely empty out. I tried a test to watch the toilet water while I drained something else but the toilet water never budged, so I decided to replace the whole toilet (besides, I accidentally chipped the toilet's lid about 9 months. Ago when I installed the ceramic tile).

Next, when I went to replace the old toilet & I picked it up off the floor & flange, the flange snapped and about 40% of it came up with the gasket which was stuck to the toilet horn. The drain line is 3" PVC and the flange is PVC and is the type that fits inside the ID of the drain pipe AND get this, it is glued into the drain pipe. The flange appears to be beyond repair. How should I fix it? I prefer fixing things right. Can I carefully cut it out with a keyhole saw in sections and then sand the ID of the drain pipe to remove the old adhesive or whatever that white, rough-looking stuff is that oozed out below the flange neck inside the drain pipe?

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The flange appears to be beyond repair. How should I fix it? I prefer fixing things right. Can I carefully cut it out with a keyhole saw in sections and then sand the ID of the drain pipe to remove the old adhesive or whatever that white, rough-looking stuff is that oozed out below the flange neck inside the drain pipe?

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Let me explain why I think your old bowl was losing water. There could also be a factory defect in the bowl. Sometimes in casting the bowl there is a small bubble in the china. Instead of junking the bowl the manufacture will put a porcelain patch over the hole and send it on through. On occasion the patch will fail allowing the water to seep out of the bowl. If that's the case you would have a full bowl after you flushed and the bowl filled but some time later you would notice a drop in the bowl level. The only other thing might be if you dropped something in the bowl and cracked it. If you're worried about where the water's going, in both cases it drains back down into the sewer and not under the bowl on the floor.To check the bowl must be pulled, filled and put up on saw horses. You can thes see if there's any leakage from the bowl.
They make flange repair kits,(see image) for those broken slots. If you wish to attempt to cut out the old flange be advised that if the plumber primed and glued the flange in correctly the two pieces of PVC are welded together.
You best bet is the flange repair kit. Regards, tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

Let me explain why I think your old bowl was losing water. There could also be a factory defect in the bowl. Sometimes in casting the bowl there is a small bubble in the china. Instead of junking the bowl the manufacture will put a porcelain patch over the hole and send it on through. On occasion the patch will fail allowing the water to seep out of the bowl. If that's the case you would have a full bowl after you flushed and the bowl filled but some time later you would notice a drop in the bowl level. The only other thing might be if you dropped something in the bowl and cracked it. If you're worried about where the water's going, in both cases it drains back down into the sewer and not under the bowl on the floor.To check the bowl must be pulled, filled and put up on saw horses. You can thes see if there's any leakage from the bowl.
They make flange repair kits,(see image) for those broken slots. If you wish to attempt to cut out the old flange be advised that if the plumber primed and glued the flange in correctly the two pieces of PVC are welded together.
You best bet is the flange repair kit. Regards, tom

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The kit in the picture won't work because there's nothing there for it to go behind in order for it to provide support. I put one of those on the other side of the flange back when I re-installed the toilet after putting down the ceramic tile about 9 months. Ago.

Hey Mrrau:

In this case, a CLAM flange repair ring may work for you (click on attached images: theclam2pdf).

Here, would finish cutting out the old ring and then install the clam.. a two piece hinged flange that will slip right into the groove of the old ring.. then secure to floor and should be all set.

This is not available at home supply stores... check the plumbing supply houses in your area or look online for the CLAM flange repair kit.

Let us know what you think... Mark

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hey Mrrau:

In this case, a CLAM flange repair ring may work for you (click on attached images: theclam2pdf).

Here, would finish cutting out the old ring and then install the clam..a two piece hinged flange that will slip right into the groove of the old ring..then secure to floor and should be all set.

This is not available at home supply stores...check the plumbing supply houses in your area or look online for the CLAM flange repair kit.

Let us know what you think...Mark

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Are you sure it'll work in my case? See pic below.

Attachment 7988

Well you got two great plumbers helping you out so you are going to do just fine. Hard to tell from the pic but I think you just might also find a fix by cutting away most of the pipe above the weld and inserting an Oatey PVC flange repair kit. http://doitbest.com/Closet+Rods_+End...sku-486000.dib If you cut the old flange out leave the screws in the fllor until the cut is done, I'd use a Dremel with a rotary saw blade, don't drop it in your lap.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

Well you got two great plumbers helping you out so you are going to do just fine. Hard to tell from the pic but I think you just might also find a fix by cutting away most of the pipe above the weld and inserting an Oatey PVC flange repair kit. http://doitbest.com/Closet+Rods_+End...sku-486000.dib If you cut the old flange out leave the screws in the fllor until the cut is done, I'd use a Dremel with a rotary saw blade, don't drop it in your lap.

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This afternoon, I actually bought that Oatey flange to which you sent me the link (however, the web link doesn't say that it's for a 3" pipe). Anyway, I was thinking I would use a keyhole saw and completely cut the damaged flange out in sections and then sand down the cement on the drain pipe by hand or use a drill with sanding bit, then install the Oatey flange.

But, what I think you are saying, sounds easier. Are you saying for me to use my Dremel to actually slice off the top portion of the drain pipe that is attached to the damaged flange, then install the new Oatey flange, which should reach down into the shorter drain pipe because it is longer than the old flange?

From my view I can't tell if the drain pipe is inside the flange or the flange inside the drain. That little shadow in te connection isn't clear for me. If the new repair flange kit fits inside what you have it should work. The key hole saw was going to be one very long day but with a Dremel its quick. There are Dremel saws for this kind iof cutting, usually in the plumbing department rather than the saw area.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

From my view I can't tell if the drain pipe is inside the flange or the flange inside the drain. That little shadow in te connection isn't clear for me. If the new repair flange kit fits inside what you have it should work. the key hole saw was going to be one very long day but with a Dremel its quick. there are Dremel saws for this kind iof cutting, usually in the plumbing department rather than the saw area.

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The flange is inside the drain. Wondering if I should just call in a plumber.

That is always an option but its up to you. You are making progress and we can help you not screw it up. Money vs. skill, only a balancing act that you can figure out.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

That is always an option but its up to you. You are making progress and we can help you not screw it up. Money vs. skill, only a balancing act that you can figure out.

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Now that we're on the same page about the flange being down inside the ID of the pipe, what would be your plan of action?

Do you think I could cut off the top of the drain pipe just below the bottom of the flange's pipe? The drain pipe wouldn't be flush with the concrete slab anymore, but the bottom of the new Oatey flange is longer than the damaged flange and I think it would reach down into the drain pipe?

I would take some measurements first. Measure the distance from where you cut to the surface of the floor. Does the new repair flange have enough reach to be inside then pipe enough for the black rubber seal to be completely inside the pipe.