Hello,
I had a faucet leaking from the spout. I turned off the water at the main line outside my house, turned off the valve stops, and took the stem to Lowe's to replace it. Found out faucet is too old for repair parts. I bought a new faucet, also stainless steel mesh supply lines and new valve stops, as the old ones as well as the copper supply lines were horribly caked with calcium and green. I installed the faucet, the hot water supply line and valve stop, but I am at a standstill after 48 hours---the cold water pipe(from the wall) hasn't finished draining! I rechecked the main line valve, but it is turned all the way off. There are no other shutoff valves(other than for the water heater) other than the ones under the individual sinks. The pipe has drained just over 8 gallons of cold water in the last 48 hours, but it is still coming out at a steady fast drip! Why won't it stop draining, and how can I make it stop? I tried installing the stop valve anyway, but it continued to leak even after installing it. I used the plumber's tape on all screw threads, I have tightened all the other nuts according to the recommendations on each part, so I anticipate some places to leak after I turn the main water line back on, but I can't get to that point until I get that stupid stop valve installed...
Elizabeth

"I used the plumber's tape on all screw threads, I have tightened all the other nuts " lets start here. Tell us how the stop cock, or valve stop, is connected to the supply pipe from the wall. Is it a compression fitting, threaded fitting or solder/sweat? Also, go to the lowest fixture in the house such as outside spigot or washer in basement and allow them to drain or draw water, that might stop your drip long enough to connect your new stuff.

The cold water line won't stop because it likely isn't draining. See second cause later. The main valve that you can access has something wrong. Bad washer, bad seat or both. That's going to have to be fixed.

Depending on local codes, you may or may not be able to do it yourself. Usually there is another valve called a "curb stop" that requires a 5 sided wrench to get the cover off. The utility company may allow you to borrow one with a deposit. This is typically located near the street.

I can't tell if the pipe that the stops(valves) attach to the pipes from the wall have a ferrule on them. With this type of fitting you don't use teflon tape, but the surfaces need to be clean. Only tapered threaded fittings use teflon tape.

If I'm correct, attach the stops without using any tape. Use finger tight + 1/2 to 1 turn.

Incidentally, when draining you need air to displace the water, so you open the lowest fixture in the house and the highest. This will allow air to displace the water and drain.

When you do this sort of repair, the hot water should be prohibited from heating. Turn off the breaker or put the gas supply on pilot.

What can happen if the water heater heats, it can expand the water in the hot water tank and at like a leak. I doubt this is happening.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

"I used the plumber's tape on all screw threads, I have tightened all the other nuts " lets start here. Tell us how the stop cock, or valve stop, is connected to the supply pipe from the wall. Is it a compression fitting, threaded fitting or solder/sweat? Also, go to the lowest fixture in the house such as outside spigot or washer in basement and allow them to drain or draw water, that might stop your drip long enough to connect your new stuff.

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The valve stop is a compression fitting.
And I really appreciate any help you can give me!

This will help:

Compression Fittings

If I'm correct, attach the stops without using any tape. Use finger tight + 1/2 to 1 turn.

Incidentally, when draining you need air to displace the water, so you open the lowest fixture in the house and the highest. This will allow air to displace the water and drain.

May I start by saying... you ARE the King.
I had turned off three faucets in all parts of the house, with no help. Then I remembered the OUTSIDE hose faucet, right outside this bathroom. I turned it off, went back in to the bathroom... water stopped! Thank you!
I cleaned and dried off the pipe, attached the valve stop, went out and turned the main line back on, turned off faucets, and checked the fittings in the bathroom. The cold water line was fine, but the HOT water line was leaking at the valve! So I shut off the main line again, took off the valve stop, to find that I had wrapped plumber's tape on the pipe. I removed it, dried everything, reattached the valve stop... said a quick prayer to the plumbing gods... and turned the mail line on again. Success!!
All is dry and working wondrously!
Now I just have to dry out the dry wall and the wood drawer that the hot water leak spurted all over.
But first, a shower!
Thank you sooo sooo much. You saved me the indignity of calling the plumber and being humbled when THEY fixed it quickly! (I just couldn't afford the cost of their doing the job)

When I suggested draining the lowest fixture I suspected what KISS also believed, a bad washer in your main shut off. Your description of the nuts and plumbers tape (teflon) made me suspect compression fitting with unnecessary teflon. Looks like KISS gave you a great link. Keep an eye on that drywall, if it got too wet for long it will develop mold. Looks like you are good to go, and showered.

If you haven't already, make sure you disinfect the wall. A disenfectant spray will work fine. Mold grows within 24 hours and drywall is mold's favorite food it seems.

One question remains: Is there a bad washer in the main shutoff or was the flow of water diverted to the outside fixture? 8 gallons of water in the pipes still doesn't make sense.

The water went to the outside fixture.
And I have only one more sink with the copper pipes, so I will be replacing those presently.
My brother is proud of me, and tells me that he is hopeless at plumbing!
Thanks again!

[QUOTE=KeepItSimpleStupid]If you haven't already, make sure you disinfect the wall. A disenfectant spray will work fine. Mold grows within 24 hours and drywall is mold's favorite food it seems.

I set a high intensity fan in the cabinet and have let it run since. But I will disinfect the wall with a 25% bleach mix I keep on hand since last summer when my house had minor flooding after a massive storm. And thanks for telling me that, I had forgotten. Too many other water concerns!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

When I suggested draining the lowest fixture I suspected what KISS also believed, a bad washer in your main shut off. Your description of the nuts and plumbers tape (teflon) made me suspect compression fitting with unnecessary teflon. Looks like KISS gave you a great link. Keep an eye on that drywall, if it got too wet for long it will develop mold. Looks like you are good to go, and showered.

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Yes, thank goodness! Thank you for your help, it was most appreciated, and I was surprised to have answers at 11:30pm! I was so grateful! I've recommended this site to my online group, all women!