I removed my old toilet to replace it and the old flange was a brass ring and a lead flange bent over the ring the lead flange is connected to a copper waste line. I straightened the lead out carefully and removed the brass ring and replaced some of the floor. Now I want to put a new flange in. Can I use a "Twist and Set" PVC Toilet Flange inserted inside the existing lead/copper pipe? Or should I put the brass ring back and bend the lead over the brass ring again? The finished height of the flange would be about 1/2 inch below the finished floor if I did this. Using a "Twist and Set" I could get the flange level with the existing floor.

Use flange extensions the flange must be at or slightly above floor level. They are available from about 1/8" to 5/8".

Hi guys:

A toilet flange wants to sit on top of the finished floor.. but that may not happen here.

That twist and set flange could be a good idea... or a bad idea. All depends on the "feel" as you set/twist it in. I will say that if fails, then will eventually show up at downstairs ceiling... sometime... ;) But may work... should explore a bit for sure.

If I were you I would explore the twist and set... and then I would put that brass flange back and then peen (bend) the lead back over as it was. If any tears result then may need to rough surface of lead with sandpaper and use an epoxy putty to seal cracks at edge (see pic. #1). If that works... then may not need the twist & set flange.

Then install extension flange(s) as Razor96 suggested (see pic.#2 and "attached image"). Secure these properly and makes pretty good seal! In this situation I would bring flange level with finished floor and then set the toilet bowl with an EXTRA THICK WAX GASKET and extended johhny bolts (available at all home supply stores). Extensions are great, but thick wax gasket never fails!

My absolute best advice... open the ceiling, cut lead out back to copper pipe and install a shielded coupling (pic. #3) to transition from copper to PVC pipe/fittings and new closet flange and be done with lead once and for all!!

Let us know your thoughts... Mark

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I wish I had those pictures to show. Sounds good mass. Touché

Razor... contact me via PM and I can explain how you can have them, too. Anytime... Mark

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately this is a concrete floor or I would have replaced it with ABS. I will try a "twist and set" flange and see how it feels and looks. If that does not work I will do what you suggested and reset the brass flange and use the extensions to bring it level or above the finished floor height and then use an extra thick wax gasket.
Thanks for your advice and pictures. I will let you know how it goes.

On another note I need to tap into my 4" copper stack and put in a Wye to attach a drain for my laundry machine which is right beside the stack. I guess I could use a sheilded coupler on either site of the ABS Wye. Does this sound good? How do they hold up to the vertical weight of the stack?
Thanks in advance.
Steve

They are excellent items, just be patient with them. Although I would prefer that you remove the copper drain completley and replace with abs. That is code in our area when you renovate, but then again I am in canada. Good luck to you.

Sorry, to answer your other question, the stack should be supported already with straps or whatever to keep the weight off all other connections.

Hi Guys:

Sounds like you're moving ahead, Steve. Some more information for you.

When cut into that stack... be careful... like Razor said, it should be hung... but that doesn't mean much in the long run... you never know who did the work? I would support the copper stack from underneath with a couple 2"x4" studs under a branch fitting from above where you make your cuts... JUST TO BE ON SAFE SIDE.

Then... shielded couplings should be just fine.. they do great with weight of stack so no worries there.

For washing machine you want a 2" drain, 2" p-trap and an 1.5" vent. You must have a vent off the drain line for washing machine or trap will get siphoned when toilet or tub drains from upstairs. You may be able to use an AAV (air admittance valve for vent.. see pic.) as vent, but need to check and see if allowed by code in your area. This AAV connects just after trap (see pic.#2). The pic. Is for sink... but shows where AAV goes in relation to ptrap... you get the idea. I would stub higher than pic. Shows... say 10-12 " above the trap.

If allowed then super easy to install these. If not allowed then need to run an 1.5 inch vent to another vent from the basement or may even need to run upstairs to attic and connect into vent there (I would just add the AAV..but I did not say that..ok?? ;) )

The standpipe for washing machine should be between 24" and 36"...I go about 30" standpipe... full size 2".

Hopefully that gets you rolling at washing machine. Get back to us with any questions... glad to help... Mark

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