92 Accord LX with 166,000 mi. Well maintained (oil and filter changed every 4000 or less) The oil light began flashing tonight and went off at first when RPM reached over 1000. As the ride progressed (2 miles) the light remained on. The oil level is fine. What is making the light flash?

It is definitely NOT a good sign.

The light goes on when there is not enough oil pressure in the system. Perhaps your oil pressure was going "enough-not enough-enough-not enough", making the light flash. Was it a rithmical flash, or not so rithmical?

Did you check your error codes?

If oil level is fine, and oil was regularly changed until now, it might be your oil pump going bad.

Perhaps your oil filter got clogged (don't know really how - hope you're not using a Fram filter? ) and is causing this low oil pressure situation.

These are just my first thoughts on this problem. I might be way off, but it's the first thing I'd think.

Is your car riding smooth? When was timing belt changed last time?

Man I hate to tell you this but sell it or get ready to buy a new motor all hondas do it.right before they start knocking I been though it 3 times on 2 accords and my prelude (with the f22- 2.2) but 166k seems kind of low to be doing that most accords last to about 300k well mainenanced anyway 1 other thing it could be is the belt see accords have a oil pump belt behind the timing belt.it keeps the oil pump in timing with the rotation of the motor the belt may have jumped have you ever replaced it ?but 9 times out of ten it's the oil pump

Hey CroCivic

I see you are not a fan of Fram oil filters. I have one sitting here for my 90 Accord and was just wondering why?

Thanks,
John

Quote:

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Originally Posted by johny6566

Hey CroCivic

I see you are not a fan of Fram oil filters. I have one sitting here for my 90 Accord and was just wondering why?

Thanks,
John

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Some time ago, on one Honda forum, I saw a thread about oil filters. It was quite a long thread and there were a lot of people saying they have had problems with their Fram filters. At the same time, a lot of people were suggesting to go with OEM oil filter, and no one has had any problems with OEM filters.

I guess it's a pretty vital part of an engine, and you don't want your oil filter to cause you problems, cause it will cause all kinds of problems (not cheap to fix) if it doesn't work right.

Consider this: there must be a good reason why you have to replace your oil filter with every oil change. It is doing a pretty important job of keeping your engine oil clean. Contaminated oil can wear out your bearings, piston rings, valve guides, valves... you don't want that.

Fram filters... cardboard end caps, overly priced for the cheap quality you get, and even the lonely old cheap walmart branded supertech is a lot better... if you cut a used, or new one open, you'll see... its like paying for 110 octane gas, but actually getting 87. Go with a purolator or wix (napa gold)... alot better quality. I think I heard somewhere, some honda oem filters were made by fram... but anyway, it's a pretty vital part, all the oil gets filtered through there...

If some of you guys have never seen this site... pretty good to get the latest http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?

Right but I would just buy a mobil 1 and be done with it .its the best 1 you can buy

Check to see that the oil sender is not bad and properly grounded.
Or a loose connection at the sender on the engine block.
Also I agree that Purolator and Wix filters are superior to Fram filters.

I have the same problem rebuild 90 accord f22a1 engine with h22 pistons bored to 87mm with stock f22 shotpeened rods floating wrist pin converted and .010 under on crankshaft rods journals has f22a1 stock headgasket measure 86mm but worked fine before now low pressure started and stock oil pump with 220,000 miles on it put in lucas stopleak cause of a little oil burning out the exhaust now my oil pressure when cold is 80 psi but at warm up its at 0 at idle and goes up to 25 when hitting the gas now and my cars starts to tick sounds like bottom end is getting starved of oil. Now I'm wondering if I should buy a new stock pump or high volume toga pump for the increase in compression from 8:8:1 to 11:6:1 also have Kaizenspeed balance shaft eliminator kit installed correctly should I change the rod bearings also when installing new oil pump car only has 500 miles since rebuild.

Low oil psi bad rod bearing cam bearing oil pump going bad that is why you oil light is on