I've purchased a new whirlpool electric clothes dryer.
It will continue to tumble but one 30 amp tl fuse keeps blowing... no heat.
What would cause this fuse to constantly fail?
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I've purchased a new whirlpool electric clothes dryer.
It will continue to tumble but one 30 amp tl fuse keeps blowing... no heat.
What would cause this fuse to constantly fail?
What is the rating for the dryer? So you have a fuse box and not a breaker panel, right?
Note that a dryer consumes 2200 to 2600 Watt : 600 Watt for the motor, 1600 to 2000 Watt for the heater.Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnysack
At 220 Volt that means 10 - 12 Amps.
At 110 Volt that means 20 - 24 Amps.
However : many dryers have a duty cycle on/off for a couple of seconds.
At switching "in" again there is a short additional "kick-in" motor induction current of 10+ Amps, that together with the normal 20 - 24 Amps adds up to 30+ Amps.
This may just exceed the limit of your 30 Amp fuse.
I suggest to try a fuse (tripswitch) between 32 and 40 Amps, just to accommodate that switch-"in" pulse.
Success! If you need any further advice, just mail me.
:)
So I am left wondering why you rated my answer as inaccurate. I asked you two questions because you left out that vital info and you rate me inaccurate for that, what gives? I got your e-mail but think I'll spend some time helping others for now.
If it is a new dryer, don't even fool with it. Have it replaced or repaired ----It has to have a warranty.
My question was "why does my fuse blow?", why would I be questioned about a breaker panel?Quote:
Originally Posted by ballengerb1
I asked the question to be sure it really was a fuse and not a breaker, many home owners use those words interchangeably and they are not. Fuse vs. breaker may change my answer. My question for you is still how you can rate someone "inaccurate" when no advice was given? I asked for more info because a 240v dryer should not blow a 30 amp fuse even with a "kick in" motor. If your machine is rated to be on a 30 amp fuse, which we still do not know, then you should follow Handyman2007's advice and return it. Dryers must be able to run as the manufacturer rates them, they can't pull more amps than they are designed to do.
Your answer is simple the heat element is separated -- when dryer turns it shorts out
This blows the fuse -- please do not ding me if answer is incorrect -- I am depending
On you to tell me what you see and hear -- ding yourself
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