We recently built an addition onto our house which includes a laundry room. The plumber installed a washer box with valves and 1.5" drain about 3' from floor. The maytag washer has overflowed right from day one. I have seen some of your replies to other people with this problem and they include sealing the connection. I was told by Maytag installers not to do this or I might end up with a siphoning problem. They also mentioned the possibility of voiding the warranty if I was to put the drain hose from the old washer (which was sealed) onto the new washer. The washer discharge pipe is designed to work with either 1.5" or 2" drain pipe. What are my options?

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Originally Posted by hspec

We recently built an addition onto our house which includes a laundry room. The plumber installed a washer box with valves and 1.5" drain about 3' from floor. The maytag washer has overflowed right from day one. I have seen some of your replies to other people with this problem and they include sealing the connection. I was told by Maytag installers not to do this or I might end up with a siphoning problem. They also mentioned the possibility of voiding the warranty if I was to put the drain hose from the old washer (which was sealed) onto the new washer. The washer discharge pipe is designed to work with either 1.5" or 2" drain pipe. What are my options?

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Your Maytag washer installers were very quick to tell you what not to do to solve this problem. I'm still waiting to hear what they told you what to do to solve the problem. The way I see it you can snake the washer drainfrom the roof vent to see if clearing it will give you better drainage. If that don't help you're back to square one.
Lets take a look at this statement. "I might end up with a siphoning problem"
The operative word here is "might". Back siphoning can only occur if the pump 's running and the standpipe's full. If the pump stops and the water level's up over the hook of the hose it's remotely possible that water could be siphoned out of the tub. But wait! Isn't that what the pump was trying to do before it stopped. Empty the water from the tub? So your installers were presenting with a possibility so remote that I have never ran into it in over fifty years out in the field. I have had a compression fitting installed on my washer standpipe for decades with no problems. Maytags scare tactics aside. If installing a compression fitting or changing the new hose for the old one works then I say GO FOR IT! The only thing you have to lose is water all over your floor when you wash. Good luck, Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

Your Maytag washer installers were very quick to tell you what not to do to solve this problem. I'm still waiting to hear what they told you what to do to solve the problem. The way I see it you can snake the washer drainfrom the roof vent to see if clearing it will give you better drainage. If that don't help you're back to square one.
lets take a look at this statement. "I might end up with a siphoning problem"
the operative word here is "might". Back siphoning can only occur if the pump 's running and the standpipe's full. If the pump stops and the water level's up over the hook of the hose it's remotely possible that water could be siphoned out of the tub. But wait!! Isn't that what the pump was trying to do before it stopped. Empty the water from the tub? So your installers were presenting with a possibility so remote that I have never ran into it in over fifty years out in the field. I have had a compression fitting installed on my washer standpipe for decades with no problems. Maytags scare tactics aside. if installing a compression fitting or changing the new hose for the old one works then I say GO FOR IT! The only thing you have to lose is water all over your floor when you wash. Good luck, Tom

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Tom,

Thanks for the prompt reply. Can you please describe the compression fitting? The current hose has what seems like a compression fitting but it has notches up the side to let air enter (and water leak out!). Do I need to replace this hose or does the fitting you are talking about work on it. Also, would this hose have worked if the plumber had originally installed 2" pipe and trap (the washer hose has ridges that would plug into either a 1.5" or 2" drain)?

Thanks again for all your help.

A compression fitting,(see image) fits over a pipe. Your washer box hasn't enough pipe sticking up to connect a compression filling to. However you can accomplish the same thing if you can block off the notches in the hose to make a water tight connection. Let me know if that works for you.
You ask, "would this hose have worked if the plumber had originally installed 2" pipe and trap ?
We'll never know but common sense tells you that increasing the size of the drain and trap will allow more discharge to pass. We run all out washer drains and traps at 2 inch.
Regards, Tom

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Originally Posted by hspec

We recently built an addition onto our house which includes a laundry room. The plumber installed a washer box with valves and 1.5" drain about 3' from floor. The maytag washer has overflowed right from day one. I have seen some of your replies to other people with this problem and they include sealing the connection. I was told by Maytag installers not to do this or I might end up with a siphoning problem. They also mentioned the possibility of voiding the warranty if I was to put the drain hose from the old washer (which was sealed) onto the new washer. The washer discharge pipe is designed to work with either 1.5" or 2" drain pipe. What are my options?

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Over two years ago I purchased a new Kenmore washer with a drain overflow problem. The old washer (only 5 years old) drained fine. Our drain pipe was 2 inches. We thought it was a clogged drain, but it wasn't. We had to temporarily have the gray water exit through the window. Yesterday it dawned on me that the old washer drain hose had a hard plastic "U" where it went into the wall drain pipe; the new hose did not. I went to the store and purchased a new hose with a "U" in the end. Evidently, besides helping the hose stay in the drain pipe, the "U" slows down the waterflow. PROBLEM SOLVED!

We just got a new washing machine and the water drainage pipe keeps overflowing. The old machine did not do this.. What could the problem be!

Help!!
Hopeless bandit

I have a similar problem. New washing machine, old plumbing. I'm getting overflow also. It seems like the new machine is pumping faster than the original plumbing (copper 1.5 inch) can evacuate the waste water. I have used DRano to clean the drain pipe but still no go. Do you know of any way to slow the pump discharge? Or any other simpler solution?
Mike9090

Had same problem as described here. Maytag repair service fixed machine which sounded loud as an airplane. They installed new transmission and then the water flow being pumped out was as strong as a fire hose. Resulted in big time overflowing, flooded " finished " basement, etc. Service Co. stated " thats the way they run ". So left to figure it out for myself. Note: no problems for the first 4 yrs. With the machine. Only had problems after they installed the new trans. So trusty plumber pal and I began with the obvious... checked all the drains... clear! Next, checked all the vents... clear! Next, double checked the trap (which you do need) all clear !
Next tore out the drywall, and re-did the pvc piping from washbox to downstairs increasing size to 3" from 2". Giving it more room to flow. Done! Next, raised the washbox 10 inches to 43 inches above the floor. Maytag reps advised suggested height be at least 32", but recommend 36". So went nuts and went to 43". Still, the powerful pump/via the new trans pumped the water so hard, it still came to table of waterbox after everything we did. NO HELP from Maytag/Whirlpool who wanted to sell me a NEW washer with a wonderful 10% discount. So what to do... read on this site about the " dude " who used the 2" to 1.5" compression fitting. So what the heck, did everything else so lets give it a try. And it worked. Unbelievable. Even though I am now way past passing code, a cheap little rubber compression fitting did the job. So go get a rubber compression fitting (one that will fit tightly into the waterbox hole, and then put your hose into the top side of the fitting, then tighter it down with the clamp so the hose stays in tightly. Note: you don't need to glue/tape the side going into the waterbox hole, just make sure it fits very tightly. Test it on spin cycle and you're off to the races. Spent two days with my plumber pal on this and the only thing that worked was the compression fitting. Case Closed.

Where do I find one of these rubber "push-in" compresssion fittings?

I found mine at the local lumber yard. Just make sure you give them the right dimensions of the waterbox hole. Still working Great for me. Good luck!

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Originally Posted by speedball1

A compression fitting,(see image) fits over a pipe. Your washer box hasn't enough pipe sticking up to connect a compression filling to. However you can accomplish the same thing if you can block off the notches in the hose to make a water tight connection. Let me know if that works for you.
You ask, "would this hose have worked if the plumber had originally installed 2" pipe and trap ?
We'll never know but common sense tells you that increasing the size of the drain and trap will allow more discharge to pass. We run all out washer drains and traps at 2 inch.
Regards, Tom

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Tom,

I recently moved into an older home and am having the washing machine drain overflow issue. Your threads keep coming up every way I try to search this issue. But I can't see the images your refer to in your posts. I'd love a way to get my laundry done easier very soon. Thanks!

Hello Dday917,

You are asking your question in 2011 thread you should have start your own thread for more visibility, Here is the image that Tom is talking about, Thanks.

John