I hope I'm in the right place for this question. This may be such an easy one but my internet search for an answer turned up nothing.

I'm simply replaceing a broken switch on a Tripp-lite AC power line conditioner.
Tripp-lite offers no help regarding the inside electronics of their unit, model LS600b.

I removed this switch years ago and failed to note the three wire hook-up.
The unit looks very similar to this - (note the switch on this picture)
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/2092

Tripp-lite will only tell me that contact 1 and 2 are the hot leads, and 3 is for the neutral wire connection. It is a lighted rocker switch.

This is a link to my drawing of my unit while I'll also try to post the image in this post.

http://img328.imageshack.us/img328/7...ed1copy1gp.jpg

http://img328.imageshack.us/img328/7...ed1copy1gp.jpg

My research of symbols tell me the above contains a neon bulb and the other symbol is an undetermined component.
I opened the old switch, and that "undetermined component" appears to be a tiny solid metal cylinder that is wire wound with a cap on each end and is part of the electrical path.

The wires coming into the unit are black blue/green and white.
I do see other wires inside that are a true Green but these shown are blue/green, closer to blue.

On the left you see Black wire connecting to a "Reset" button.

The picture of the enlarged switch shows the small schematic that is printed on the switch itself.


Also this is a photo of a similar switch -
http://www.globalspec.com/featuredpr...fromSupplier=0


And here is a PDF of my switch category-
http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/lr_se...d_curvette.pdf

My switch is - LRA211-CR-B/125N
I understand the above letters codes but it's the hook-up that has me stuck.

Thanks for any help offered.

The hot input wire from the power cord should goes to the reset button, which acts as a circuit breaker, the other blue wire from the reset will connect to terminal #1 on the switch. This way the reset button is protecting the switch and everything from there.

Since the other blue coming out if the unit had a push on blade connector, my guess is that this goes to the #2 terminal on the switch.

So power comes in on the cord, goes through the reset button, out on blue to switch, through switch and out on #2 into the unit.

The neutral wire that has a push on blade connector should go to #3 on the switch, this is the neutral return for the builtin pilot light on the switch, the #2 teminal will only have power once the switch is put into the "ON" position.


The remaining wires, 1 Blue, 2 Reds, 2 whites, and the last that looks brown, all these seem to be cut, and I cannot determine how these should get connected. Did they get cut to free the front panel?

You are right, cannot find a wiring diagram from Tripp. And they do not list your specific model number. Seems this unit is obsolete and no longer supported.

You state your unit is a power line conditioner, but the unit you show in link is a DC power supply. Really does not matter I suppose, since Tripp has no wiring diagrams available for any of their units on their website.

Did the unit come with any wiring diagrams, in the manual, or maybe pasted on the unit someplace? I doubt it but worth asking.

Either you will need to determine the purpose of the wires I mentioned and can connect yourself from there, or get back with another diagram that shows where these wires go inside the unit.

You may need to pay closer attention to the colors and be sure which is blue and which is green, really cannot get these mixed up , since green or a green with a yellow tracer is usually ground.

Best I can do from here. Hope it helps.

Thanks for the response.
Just a few more details -
The link I show of a unit that is similar in appearance to mine is a DC unit. But I provide this pic to show the dimension of mine, which is AC and has two AC outlets in the back.
More specifically, my unit is a Low Voltage Regulator with Spike Bar Noise & Supression (as it reads on the unit itself). On another side of the unit it is written, Line Stabilizer/Conditioner.

A much closer look I see that the wires I need to connect are indeed Blue.
But regarding any Green wires? There are two inside, both are strapped together with a screw to one of the AC outlet receptacles, while the other AC outlet has one Black and one White wire. (maybe I can make a drawing and post it here)

Those remaining wires that I show are not cut, I just included them as a help to see a little more of what's inside. They are connected within the unit.

There is a cluster of White wires that are "pigtaled" inside a small white cap that is "crimped" closed.

Let me follow the White wire coming into the unit-
The White enters the unit from the power cord and goes to the "pigtale" cluster. Exiting the "pigtale" cluster are three White wires.
One goes to the circuit board sitting on the floor of the unit.
Another goes to the back of the AC receptacle of which there are two that provide 125v out.
The third goes to the push on connector, which also pigtales out to the large "transformer like" component shown.
I've added a picture taken with a cheap webcam.

Before my first post here, I made a toll call to Tripp-lite and they are sending me a replacement switch at no cost.
But they would not offer connection information other than what I provided here.

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/5...0copy2a6hv.jpg

Thanks for the picture, helped a great deal to see what you have. Also I need to say nice job with the sketches, great method to ask questions is by offering visual to assist others to answer. I hope this catches on.

OK then looks like you are all set, as I said, the blue wire from the reset goes to #1 on the switch, the other blue on #2 on the switch, and the white with the push on connector onto #3 on the switch. You should be all set, assuming all the other wires are connected.

Manufacturers are not always, and are not compelled, going to publish and convey how there unit is wired, due to competiton. They know that their unit, which may or maynot be unique, are reversed engineered by competitor, but will not offer any verbal or written confirmation on how their unit is built.

If you need any further help, do not hesitate to get back with your questions.

An apology and a big, big thanks for your help. All went well.
I installed the switch as per your instructions, turned the unit on and no smoke or sparks.

But I must say I did not insert the unit into a power path to any of my components yet. I assume all is well with this unit.

Been busy, as I'm sure we all are and apologize for not getting back to you on this.

I see you turned your "rep" switch off since I would certainly give you credit for giving your time and attention to my problem.

Been busy with finding additional work and a new residence.

No need to apologize, the entire world is crazy busy, and some just crazy. I moved to Maine to get away from the rat race, only to witness it's slow arrival here.

Next stop Canada, Nova Scotia, or an island there I cannot remember populated with a people with Irish accents. Now that will be pleasure.

Your success is my reward.

Not sure exactly how but there must be a way to confirm the unts operation, better to be safe than damage another component.

I saw your Message on the LS-600B so I opened mine up and the answer is clear. I'll use one of your pictures that had the questionable wires labeled a, b, & c.
The 2 white wires (C) in the spade lug go to the top lug connector on the switch.
The blue wire (A) from the transformer goes to the center lug connector on the switch.
The blue wire (B) from the circuit breaker goes to the bottom lug connector on the switch.