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-   -   Replacing top half of solvent weld shower drain (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=195262)

  • Mar 16, 2008, 01:36 PM
    edw
    Replacing top half of solvent weld shower drain
    A little advice here would be most appreciated...

    Six year old home, slab on grade, one-piece fiberglass shower unit with solvent weld drain over what looks to be a 2" PVC pipe. Original installers must have overtightened the screws that hold the strainer down. In doing so they broke the molded-in plastic "nuts" underneath. This was not realized until I removed the strainer to clean hair, etc. from drain. So now I must replace the top half of the drain to make it right. Why it hasn't come loose sooner is beyond me.

    I think I understand how this would have originally been installed. You would, of course, have access to the underside of the fiberglass unit. The drain, I gather, would have been attached to the shower with caulk or putty placed under the top lip, tightened from the bottom squeezing the O-ring and fiber washer, and the whole deal very carefully placed over the drain pipe covered with solvent cement. Glad that wasn't my job! Seems like there would be an easier way.

    Anyhow, I have similar drains from two different manufacturers for replacement. The local plumbing supply house just said, "... unscrew the top of the old one and screw the new one in... " Sounds easy enough, but the one that's in there obviously didn't have one of those fancy "locking wrenches" as Oatey calls it because there are no grooves for it. I only know this because one of the potential replacements came with such a thing and it looks like it would be very handy. So first question... is the old channel locks and screwdriver trick the best way to get the old one out? Secondly and assuming that one of my potential replacements matches the existing threads, is it as simple as applying silicone to the underside of the lip and screwing in (i.e. should I worry about putting too much torque on the glue joint(s) below)? And third, if the replacement without the locking wrench has the matching threads what's the best way to tighten it down (channel locks and screwdriver again)??

    Thanks for the help!
  • Mar 16, 2008, 02:27 PM
    massplumber2008
    3 Attachment(s)
    EDW:

    There are two kinds of solvent weld shower drians: First kind (see 1st pic) does unscrew, second kind (see pic.#2) does not. You need to determine which one you have.

    Look inside drain.. if see threads at all, may in fact unscre (need to get creative here). If no threads, then is attached from underneath... and that will not be easy to replace.

    It can be done... you would need to cut drain all out and then using an inside cutter (see pic) cut the pipe and install new drain... issue here will be that you need to cut an access hole in wall behind shower... reach in and under and see if can secure new drain. This would not be easy, but it can be done. Then you would use a coupling and that oatey drain you mentioned. BUT for now... try to see which type you have... get back to us on it.. ok?

    NOW, you said, the inside nuts were damaged..is that all that is wrong...? If it is, and rest of drain OK...can always use plastic epoxy to re-build these nuts (thanks HKSTROUD!!) and then screw strainer into that. OR as I have had a couple people do...just use mildew resistant caulk to hold the strainer cover in place...works pretty good for these situations. BUT if drain itself damaged, well.. you are on right track.


    If this answer helped, please RATE THIS ANSWER..Thank you...Mark.
  • Mar 16, 2008, 04:54 PM
    edw
    Thanks for your reply...

    I have verified that the existing drain does have threads, and I am assuming that it will screw out. It does not, however, have groves in the top half of the drain to accept the internal, manufacturer provided, "wrench" like one of my potential replacements does.

    So I believe the old one will screw out, but have only seen one option for doing so. The aforementioned channel locks and screw driver trick. Which takes me back to the three questions at the end of my initial post.
  • Mar 16, 2008, 05:02 PM
    massplumber2008
    Hey EDW:

    #1) It may be... if putty.. if silicone... little tougher.

    #2) Yes, I like the silicone in this situation (I prefer silicone with no twist from above.. but instead, nut tighten from bottom, but that is not available right now.. ;) ).

    #3) YUP! Works for me!


    Funny.. most don't even know what channel locks are... LOL. They work great for everything!

    Let me know thoughts... Mark

    .

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