I am in the process of a major remodel of my bathroom. In doing so, I am moving my toilet from one corner to the complete opposite (diagonal) corner and still want to use the existing 3" stack. However, I am facing two issues. One, the existing vent was improperly installed and so I am wanting to tie into another 2" vent which is only about 6' away from where I want to place my new toilet. This vent is in the complete opposite direction of where the drain is. Can I do this and if so, how? The second issue is the placement of the toilet. In order to get the necessary 12" minimum from the back wall of the toilet, I will have to cut into and eliminate a part of a floor joist (as the 3" drain pipe will be running parallel to the joist. I'm sure that this is probably not recommended so I open for suggestion.

I know that this sounds like a job for a plumber, but where I live (out in the sticks), the closest plumber is about 80 miles away. What should I do? I have done quite a bit of plumbing, but nothing like this.

All of this assumes there's nothing exotic about your house construction...

What's underneath? You need to work from underneath, this might involve removing some ceiling material.

You can cut (Sawzall to the rescue; my favorite tool!) out a short portion of the offending the floor joist - you have to support the joists underneath while you do it. Build a temporary stud wall on either side of the area you want to cut out - you only need to span past the two joists parallel to the offending one.

Using the same 2X material the existing floor joists are (2x8, 2x10 or 2x12), double the material, and double head off on either side of the cut, spanning between the distance from then joists on either side.

Use nails - drywall screws are not rated for shear strength. 3 to 4 nails for each joist (3 on 2x8, 4 otherwise). Nail into the ends of both new headers through the intersecting existing joists parallel to the offending one. When you have only one cross header installed, nail into the ends of the cut out section of the offending joist. Install the second header joist, nailing through the parallel existing joists. Finally, nail through the headers to secure them to one another.

Now remove the supporting structure you've built as temporary support to hold the joist you've cut out.

Now, wait for Tom to fill us in on venting... That's what got me coming here to begin with, plumbing code compliance. :)

I would do what stew said... perfect. Can't give advise on code for the vent, sorry.

If you don't wan't to hack the floor joist, you have another option: despite the standard toilet rough-in being 12", there are toilets available for oddball rough-ins, such as 10" or 14". So if being able to move the flange an extra couple of inches either way will save the day for the joist, consider getting such a toilet. If you're going to have to hack the joist anyway... oh well, good luck then. ;)

Cheers,
Moishe

As for venting, first of all let me say that if they are allowed by your local codes (or if you're not trying to pass an inspection anyway), the easiest way out of this mess would be to install an AAV (a.k.a. "cheater vent"). Having said that, I should really warn you that Master Plumbers like Tom recommend using a "real" vent if possible, and only use AAV's if a conventional vent is impossible or unnecessarily difficult.

As for tying into the existing stack, I don't really understand what your problem is: you simply branch vertically off the toilet drain line as soon as coveniently possible after the closet bend (using a wye if the drain immediately goes vertical, or an upward-pointing tee if it goes horizontal), and then cut into the vent line using a tee. Am I missing something in your question here?

Moishe

Here's a diagram of what I was talking about:
http://imagedump.filefactory.com/full.php?id=1617

(Yeah, I know the toilets look more like basketball backboards, but hell, it's 3:39 AM and my "artistic talent" has already gone to bed without me ;))

Does that help you? Or am I misunderstanding your problem?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mtskyking

I am in the process of a major remodel of my bathroom. In doing so, I am moving my toilet from one corner to the complete opposite (diagonal) corner and still want to use the existing 3" stack. However, I am facing two issues. One, the existing vent was improperly installed and so I am wanting to tie into another 2" vent which is only about 6' away from where I want to place my new toilet. This vent is in the complete opposite direction of where the drain is. Can I do this and if so, how? The second issue is the placement of the toilet. In order to get the necessary 12" minimum from the back wall of the toilet, I will have to cut into and eliminate a part of a floor joist (as the 3" drain pipe will be running parallel to the joist. I'm sure that this is probably not recommended so I open for suggestion.

I know that this sounds like a job for a plumber, but where I live (out in the sticks), the closest plumber is about 80 miles away. What should I do? I have done quite a bit of plumbing, but nothing like this.

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I waited until all the opinions were in to answer because all the answers were so good I couldn't add to them. Stew gave you a dynamite answer on heading off the floor joists and Moshie gave you a great dedicated vent for the toilet. Perhaps I'm missing something here but why does the toilet need it's own vent? Since your bathroom has a tub/shower and a lavatory why not do what we do when we lay out a bathroom group. The toilet will have a 3" main to the stack. Connect the lavatory, which I assume has its own vent, to the toilet drain and connect the bath/shower to the lavatory drain.
The tub/shower would be wet vented by the lavatory, as would the toilet. Thus, one vent would service the entire group. Let me know what you think?
Regards, tom

Great solution, Stew! Thank you. I believe as far as the vent is concerned, the problem that I am running into is the vent for the vanity and tub is actually run through the wall perpendicular into another attic and then out. I realize that this in not necessary a big problem, but nothing about the plumbing in this room is typical to what I have ever seen before. (Even for a rookie!) I will try to lay out your ideas and see if I can make them work. Thank you everyone for your help!! This is a great help!!