I've read some other discussion on this topic, but can't find an exact match.

Our water pressure varies dramatically in our home. Going from normal to high to just a trickle at times. When faucets in the house are opened the pressure gage on the tank climbs and falls accordingly( 40 PSI to mid 50PSI).
From my investigation, I expected to find that my holding tank was water logged, but as I tap on the outside it appears to be full to about half way up and then sounds hollow on the top portion of the tank. Normal right?
I checked the pressure valve on the top of the tank and it read about 35-38 PSI.
After I checked this pressure on the top of the tank the pressure gage now climbs to an extremely high pressure (scary) but the symptom is the same.

Help please.

Bill

If I'm reading this correctly, it sounds as though your pump cuts in at 40 and out at 55, and you have set the pressure above the bladder to about 38# or so. That all sounds normal. It also sounds like your pressure tank is not water logged. If it was, you would be able, when faucets are on, to hear the switch clicking several times a minute as the pump cuts in and out repeatedly. With a well, pressure in the house will vary some as the pressure gradually falls to 40 and climbs to 55. I would first check and see what kind of pressure you have at the tank when you have only a "trickle" in the house. Also, is the trickle noticed when there are several faucets on, or sometimes just one? How high is "scary"? Has this problem developed recently, or has it been long-term?

When faucet(s) are on, I CAN hear the switch clicking on and off a couple time a minute. I only assumed it was not water logged since there is obviously air in the top of the tank.
I will check the pressure at the tank when I have a trickle.
Scary high is like the needle "pegged" (100+ PSI).
For some time now, there has fluctuating pressure which is most noticeable in the shower. The pressure changes and the temperature changes as well.

Thanks

If you have 100# of pressure, I would think that would be really noticeable in the house. Additionally, you should have a pressure relief valve opening, as I recall, at 90#. However, I'd get on that quickly. I would turn off the breaker, get a replacement pressure gauge (to be sure the gauge is not defective). If the gauge is accurate, then that would point at a faulty switch which also needs replacing quickly. I wouldn't play around if there really is 100# pressure.

One more item. You could have a faulty check valve. The check valve prevents water in the pressure tank from simply flowing back down the well pipe once the pump cuts off. You can check by watching the pressure gauge when there is no water being used in the house. Ideally, turn off the main valve to the house, if you have one. The pressure should stay steady. If the check valve is leaking or defective, you will notice the pressure dropping, possibly quite rapidly.

It is also possible you simply have a leak in a line somewhere. If the check valve is OK, then turn the water back on to the house. Watch the pressure. If it drops, then you know you have a leak somewhere going up to, or in, the house.

BW, I just assumed you have a bladder pressure tank. There are some tanks that don't have a bladder. You tell by checking the top of the tank. A bladder tank will generally have an air valve similar to a tire air valve.

The pressure is definitely noticeably higher.

Earlier when I checked the pressure on the top side of the tank (tire valve) it was around 37 PSI. I must have accidentally bled it down because I checked it again it was near zero. I shut off the pump power and turned on the nearest faucet to bleed the tank and recharged the top of the tank to 35 PSI.

When there is no demand for water the pressure has been steady so I guess that would rule out the check valve.

OK. Check valve is good... no leaks in system.

The switch should be cutting your pump off at somewhere, as you described it at first, around 55#. If it runs the pump up to 100, then your switch either needs some mega adjusting, or (more likely) needs replacing.

Having 0 pressure at the top of the tank is strange. There has to some pressure there for there to be pressure on the gauge. In fact, if you read near 0 at the top, then your gauge should also be reading near 0. It's that air at the top of the tank that pressurizes the system to begin with. Whatever your gauge reads should be the same as you get at the top of the tank unless you have bled the tank and there is no water in it.

I have recharged the top of the tank to what it should be.
The switch is shutting off the pump.
The pressure builds to over 100 after the pump has run; shuts off and the system stabilizes (no faucets on). As you said, the tank should also be seeing that same pressure but it scares the poop out of me to check that while its climbing.

Wow. That is strange. I can only think of two things.

1. Is this a submersible pump or above ground? If it's above ground, there is no question but that it is cutting off. If it's sumbersible, the points on the switch could be sticking and you would think the pump is off, but it's not. Check the breaker points (under the grey cover) and make certain they are separating.

2. The only other thing I can think of that would contribute to pressure on your system would be the water heater. You might try turning off the HW heater and see if the problem goes away. I guess that's grasping at straws, but at least it won't cost anything.

Hopefully some others on this site can contribute.

Submersible pump.
Hot water heater is new about 6 months ago.

When I check the pressure on the top of the tank there is a evidence of water in the top half but certainly not full.
Bad tank?

When you press the air valve on top, if water comes out, then that's bad. It generally means the bladder is ruptured. However, if you are charging the tank to 38 pounds, then there is air in the tank whether the bladder is ruptured or not. You can continue to run a bladder tank that is ruptured if you are willing to charge it with air from time to time, which most people quite wisely would not want to do. At any rate, that would not account for the pressure rising so dramatically when the pump is off. When you hit 100#, how long does it take for the pressure to drop to, say, 55# once you start using water? If it's just seconds, then that would indicate a water-logged tank. Still, I don't know that I've ever heard of one quite like this.

Bwood,

Jlisenbe has given you good guidance. I'll throw in a few more points. From what I have read of your postings, I would bet you have a bad pressure tank blatter. To set the air pressure in the blatter tank (when you have a good one) the water pressure needs to be bled down to zero by switching off the pump breaker and opening a faucet. Once it is at zero then check the air pressure charge. Normally it should be set about 2 psi above the pressure switch low limit value. For example, if the pressure limit switch turn the pump on at 30 psi, the pressure tank air charge should be about 32 psi. Like wise, if you have a pressure switch that the low limit of 40 psi, then the air charge should be set to about 42 psi.

On your pressure climb that you are talking about, this can be caused by a bad blatter in the pressure tank. Once the pump shuts off the hot water in the water heater can cause the pressure climb. The expanding water volume has no where to go so you see the pressure climb. THIS IS A SERIOUS MATTER! Don't let this go without fixing quickly.

The key factor to identifying this problem from your post is the short cycling of the pump. This is a leak or a bad pressure tank in most cases.

Please keep us posted on what your fix ends up being.

Regards,

Eric D

Well gang I went and bought a new tank and installed it today. Things seems to be just fine now (fingers crossed).
In addition, as I was replacing section(s) of pipe I found that a section that "T'd" off to the pump pressure switch was nearly completely clogged with rust/debris. I find this interesting because the pressure gage and pump seemed to be working just as they should.
Anyway, thanks for all of your support. This kind of feedback is awesome as well as this website!

I wouldn't be surprised if the clogged pipe was more the source of your problem than anythng else. Glad it worked out!