My house (approx 15 yrs old) has a basement bathroom rough-in. It has 3 pipes protruding, one is 4" in diameter, one is 1 3/4" (inside dia.) & the other is 2" in diameter. Assuming, one (4") is for the toilet, one (1 3/4") is for the shower vent and the other (2") is for the shower drain. The piping is black (abs?) and appears not to be located correctly.The distance from the toilet pipe to the shower vent is only 10" (in which a wall would be constructed at the same location of the shower vent pipe). No matter which way I position the toilet, I have a clearance issue. The bathroom is only 8'x6', so use of space is in demand. The position of the shower drain is no problem, no clearance issues. My only solution that I see is, tearing up the concrete to relocate the plumbing properly. I believe you need a minimum of 12" from the center of the toilet pipe to a wall? Are there alternatives versuses tearing up the concrete? Do you recommend a book/resource in basement bathroom plumbing? I've searched the web but not having luck in finding the information. I'm a confident diy'er but basement plumbing is something I haven't experienced yet. I've consulted with a local plumber & he says it'll cost $1500.00 to do all the plumbing work but that's with me tearing up the concrete for his access. Is it worth going back to the builder for compensation even 15 yrs has elapsed? (I know, I'm reaching!) Please Help!

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Originally Posted by gcbuckeye

Is it worth going back to the builder for compensation even 15 yrs has elapsed? (I know, I'm reaching!) Please Help!

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Nah, 15 years is way too long, unless he's a REALLY nice guy - and those are in very short supply these days, unfortunately. :(

Did you measure from the center of the toilet pipe, or the edge? You're supposed to measure from the edge - and since the distance between the center and edge of a 4" pipe is 2", that would explain what happened to the extra 2" - they're there; no need to worry.

If you measured correctly, and it is 10" from the center, all is not lost - I believe that some vendors sell toilets designed for oddball rough-ins - like 10" or 14" - so you may be able to find one.

And if all else fails, don't shell out $1500 bucks. The hell with the rough-in pipe; cut it, cap it off, and install a macerating toilet* instead. May be a bit more complicated, but it should cost less than one-and-a-half grand to install.

Let us know what you decide.
Moishe

*Macerating toilet: sort of a cross between a toilet and an under-the-sink food disposer. The toilet is attached to a tank with a grinder. After using the toilet enough times to fill the tank, the grinder grinds up the waste (yum!) and pumps it out a three-quarter-inch pipe to a nearby sewer stack. The beauty of macerating toilets is that you do not have to break the concrete at all - everything happens above ground.

Oh, and most macerating toilets have inlets for a sink and maybe a shower, too, if necessary.

For more information, check out Saniflo's FAQ page.

Hey Buckeye,
It's so seldom that I have to correct one of Moshies statements that I can't remember the last time, but his statement, "
Did you measure from the center of the toilet pipe, or the edge? You're supposed to measure from the edge - and since the distance between the center and edge of a 4" pipe is 2", that would explain what happened to the extra 2"."

All our measurements are to the center not the edge. I suppect that Moshie just made a error in typing when he typed in edge instead of center.
we rough in out toilets 12" from the rough wall and 11 1/2" from a finished wall. I have enough faith in Moshies plumbing knowledge not to believe he didn't know that. And if your rough is only 10" to center they make a bowl that roughs at 10" so you won't have to break up any cement.

Now back to you.
I think you're seeing your lay out wrong. First off the shower would be wet vented by the lavatory vent so a shower vent is unnecessary. That would make the 1 3/4" pipe that lavatory drain line. One small problem here. Pipe sizes don't include 1 3/4". They go from 1 1/2" to 2". I don't see where you have any major problems here that would force you to tear up the cement. You can install a 10" rough bowl in need be, and I'm still not too sure you'll have to since then 10" measure is from the toilet stubup to the lavatory drain that will be in the wall. After you bring the lavatory drain up 18" to the center to a tee you may run a lateral.(horizontal) drain line to a vanity stub-out anywhere within a 5' limit from trap to vent. In short I can see no reason to change anything. Regards, Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

It's so seldom that I have to correct one of Moshies statements that I can't remember the last time,

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Thanks for the compliment, Tom! :D

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Originally Posted by speedball1

but his statement, "Did you measure from the center of the toilet pipe, or the edge? You're supposed to measure from the edge - and since the distance between the center and edge of a 4" pipe is 2", that would explain what happened to the extra 2"."

All our measurements are to the center not the edge. I suppect that Moshie just made a error in typing when he typed in edge instead of center.
we rough in out toilets 12" from the rough wall and 11 1/2" from a finished wall. I have enough faith in Moshies plumbing knowledge not to believe he didn't know that. And if your rough is only 10" to center they make a bowl that roughs at 10" so you won't have to break up any cement.

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You're right Tom - it was a typing error: I left out the word not, as in "You're not supposed to measure from the edge" but at 2:00 AM local time I was not inclined to notice the difference. :D

In fact, from the rest of my statement it's obvious that that's what I meant, since if one does the math involved in my statement, it works out: my main point was that the radius of a 4" circle is 2" (no major geometry there ;)), and therefore, measuring from the wall to the edge instead of the center would make you lose 2".

Thanks for giving me the benefit of the doubt. :)

"Thanks for giving me the benefit of the doubt."
Hey Moshie,
Iv'e seen enough of your posts to respect the plumbing knowledge that you have. There was no doubt in my mind it was a typo oversite. However I thought I'd clear it up for the asker. Regards, Tom

Hey, thanks for the great advice! I feel more at ease now knowing I don't have to excavate the basement floor! I will seriously consider these options! Thanks again,
gcbuckeye

No problem. Let us know what you do in the end (we're a curious bunch around here ;)).

Good Luck!
Moishe

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Originally Posted by PalmMP3

Thanks for the compliment, Tom! :D




You're right Tom - it was a typing error: I left out the word not, as in "You're not supposed to measure from the edge" but at 2:00 AM local time I was not inclined to notice the difference. :D

In fact, from the rest of my statement it's obvious that that's what I meant, since if one does the math involved in my statement, it works out: my main point was that the radius of a 4" circle is 2" (no major geometry there ;)), and therefore, measuring from the wall to the edge instead of the center would make you lose 2".

Thanks for giving me the benefit of the doubt. :)

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P.S. they also make closet flanges that offset two inches, also on the 1-3/4" pipe, are you sure it wasn't the o.d. and if so maybe the tape read 1-5/8" cause that is the outside diameter of 1-1/2" sch. 40 pipe... also, the wall behind the toilet is where he is talking about, right? with his consideration of lack of space he should also know he needs 15 inches clearence from "side to side" from center of toilet (thirty total) to any wall or fixture. Unless he doesn't plan on pulling a permit it shouldn't be an issue though.

Hope this gets to you... Don't tear up toilet waste line over 2" clearance problem. Just install an offset flang to make up the 2" and position it where you want it. Then set 2" concrete blocks to set the toilet on a base support. Wrap it with ceramic tiles to finish it off. It will look good... Will

Hey Will!
Hate to break this to you but you're responding to a thread that started back in 06. Look in the upper left hand corner for the date. Regards, Tom