I have a friend who had a problem with brakes hanging, He bought 2 rear wheel cylinders, I change out for him. Tried to ge him to Service Manual, He got Front Calipers and Pads instead. I installed for him. Then He bought Master Cylinder, He changes it. Still hangs, It has another unit with electronics at Master Cylinder. Any tests or input you can suggest.
TX? Thanks.
I think he will put out for the Manual Now. People don't understand the amount of Time and Parts that can be saved by a Manual.

Be sure to grease the caliper pins with silicone grease or Squeak Relief (silicone grease with Moly). I use Squeak Relief on all rear drum brake rub points.

Hoping you'd show up, No all that is fine. Someone did mention deterioiated brake lines with bits of rubber that Floats? And acts like a check valve at Master Cylinder.
You push pedal, it applies pressure to wheels, when letting off it plugs the return?

Sounds like you need to change deteriorated brake lines, then flush the system.

So far that's the plan, they got new brake lines. I was going to disconnect lines, blow them out from above to wheel cylinders/calipers. What would be the best way to deal with cylinders/calipers(rubber bits). I'm hoping since it supposedly floats, they may be OK?

Flushing would likely be sufficient; however, if you are really concerned, rebuild the wheel cylinders. Then, you should have all contaminants removed, after bleeding the system.

Don't overlook that deterioration of hydraulic hoses can act like a one-way check valve. If cracking the bleeder relieves the "hangning", look to replace the hydraulic hose to that section and flush the remaining sections. Also, the proportioning valve can become an issue...

He just bought new cylinders, calipers, shoes and pads, they are all installed and no better, He didn't want to turn anything, and they didn't look bad.

Thanks Captain, I did crack the bleader, fluid and pressure released, and wheel was free again. I will check Proportioning valve. Thanks all, I'll get back with the results.

Turning to me would be for pulsation... not so much a factor.
If he's flushing the system, does he see good, or more importantly: even flow from all corners?

Brake Fluid Looked watery/contaminated. It will do good for new fluid.

Brake pipes sometimes need to be replaced, if there's corrosion. This is particularly important on ABS systems. New tests focus on copper ions in solution (byproduct of brazing), as an indication of whether the brake fluid is good. Corrosion protection is one reason brake fluid should be changed every 24 months.

Litmus test strips are available to determine cororosive propeties within systems, but if known foreign substances have been introduced... umm, why??
Mineral spirit flushing may be the only option, and only that, in an attempt to restore...

I'm not familiar with the term 'hanging' but if it's the same as dragging or binding which means calipers not releasig the rotors I have been having the same problem with a dodge ram even though I replaced the booster master cyl. Combination valve calipers and hoses too . The brake booster can also cause this problem if it is binding on the return stroke .If the brake pedal is returning very slow after releasing the brake like mine was it could cause problems.Of course in my case replacing it did not help completely but I can illiminate it as a cause now and it has made a big difference to the brakes.I just need to solve the overheating problem that I still have.Another thing that I learned is that any other kind of oil getting into brake fluid is a BIG NO-NO .Regular oil expands and causes major issues.

And I also wanted to mention the importance of adjusting the brake-booster rod correctly.If it's too long brakes will drag.