I was told to return an all purpose 3 gal tub of mastic that Lowe's guy recommended for inside alcove shower/tub ceiling 3x5 area.. Should I use unmodified thinset mortar?. I am using 6x6 porcelain tile on 3/8 hardibacker screwed to the ceiling and 9" surround at the top of an acrylic wall/ tub surround.. Is the unmodified thinset preferred for tiling on cement (hardibacker) or use modified thinset on the hardibacker board.. I'm going to get white or which ever shade closest to color of tile (almond in my case).. another project I have is on the 1st floor bathroom,the subfloor is 5/8 plywood should I use modified thinset for setting the hardibacker 1/2 to plywood 5/8 subfloor followed by the manufactures screw instructions/fiber tape slightly spaced seemed to floor joists? And lastly,go back to unmodified thinset (almond) for setting the 12x12 floor tiles to the cement hardibacker? Or just use modified thinset mortar throughout? Thank you in advance

On cement I use unmodified thinset but on Hardiebacker I use acrylic modified thinset. On the cement floor you may want to consider Ditra as your base. Schluter-DITRA - Schluter-Systems By the way, you can use 1/4" Hardiebacker on the floor rather than 1/2" inless you needed to build up.

ballenger, So I should not use regular thinset over hardibacker on the ceiling inside the alcove tub area? Again , this is the first ceiling tile project I'm doing and should use the acrylicpro adhesive or similar knowing it is likely easier working upside down.. also, today I installed 1/4 EZ grid hardibacker over the existing 1/2 sheetrock using a left over 1gal. Can of acrylPro ceramic tile adhesive applied v notch 1/4 and screwed it tight using the durock 1 1/4 screws so I know it will be ready tomorrow. Glad I waited before trying the regular thinset to ceiling. I do believe it will be much easier working with the acrylic adhesive. One last thing, I'm using 1/4 spacers on 6x6 porcelain tile, should I keep off the inside corner ceiling about an 1/4" tiles look alittle better than a 1/4 thick , so once the ceiling is up and set I'm going to use an adhesive caulk around the perimeter before continuing the walls ( about 10") around the tub unit. Thank you again

JON... use 1/16th tile spacer on the 6x6 tile... maybe 1/8".....but not 1/4" (thick grout lines can crack.. especially overhead! My opinion). AND tell me... how did that cast iron tub drop in... hmmm.. Ballenger will answer the questions you asked him... I am sure. Keep in touch.

Mass, today is snowin day, can't get to Lowe's or depot for the modified thinset.. I had the right stuff in the first place but my dopey brother said return the mastic 3.5 premix and modified thinset for the cheaper regular thinset mortar!. so today I'm holding off until I can again return this (unmodified)thin set 50lb. Bag for a (modified) thinset I had the first time! I am going (overkill) as he put it with the modified thinset. Besides I went to hardibacker site and this is what they recommend. As for spacing, I agree staying thin on the grout lines, however, the (project director) my sister, wants 1/4 grout line. Main family bathroom still on hold, waiting for the plumber to change out the roughin valve and waiste lines from lead/cast to pvc as planned,can't do much until than. I have the tub tarped in backyard. The other bathroom home project underway is the upstairs room. Spackling done, today start ceiling paint approx,1000sq ft. of ceiling painting today. Also, just replacing old blistering masonite crap board with 6x6 unglazed porcelain tile. Shower tub upper portion flange 10" of wall/ 3x5' ceiling. I am guessing the best startoff is finding center on the 3x5 ceiling.. lay out with size spacer count out to cut corner tiles It works out about an inch less off each end to wall on the 5' layout.. from bullnose , full tiles to backwall shorties?

Mass, I'm going to check up on the spacing again, if it were me I'd certainly go thin on the grout line, but she wants the same size spacers showcased in the store. I tried to tell her thinner is best but she wants 3/16 -1/4 space she seen displayed in Lowe's where we picked up the tile. I doubt I'll be tiling today , will double check do a little more DD.. later today painting, she's sponge mopping the dust now preping for painting. Heavy snow shoveling today in the nnj area

You can use any spacing your wife wants but nromal installation you use the 1/4 spacer for 12x12 tiles. I'd use a premixed grout that is stain proof, its about $24 for a 5 lbs. tub but it will not shrink, crack or stain and it will hold better when you do your overhead work. I would not use a 3 part expoxy overhead. Remember, thinset on concrete and modified acrylic thinset for Hardiebacker, Wonderboard or plywood. When your side wall meets the back wall you should keep the tiles spaced the same as you have done on the surface, 1/4" in your case. Do not grout this verticle seam, use a silicone caulk that is mildew proof. DAP makes some good ones called PLUS.

Hey ballenger, now you really got me thinking, could you please review this link Removing grout from Venetian Stone - InfoTile Forum and specifically the poster cindea about her grout situation.. I will have to now re-think the bag of sand grout the Lowe's guy recommended too. Thanks

Ballenger check this tileguybob tile for shower walls - InfoTile Forum diffinitely getting the modified thinset for everything in both bathrooms. Thank you again! Might be too busy for Lowe's tonight with all this snowmelt.. will get it all tomorrow. Tonight I want to research some links for the materials in question. Check this tile out what she picked and please give me your opinion for the bathrooms.6" x 6" Porcelain Rialto Beige Tile BN OUTCNR thanks much good buddy!

I also read on hardibacker site to wet sponge hardibacker prior to applying modified thinset.. I'm going with 1/4 notch trowel. Later!

Okay, you got to see this guys tips Ceramic Wall Tile Tips particularly about which wall to start first, I'm inclined to think the backwall first than the two smaller sides and ceiling last.. And using 100 % clear silicon around the inside corners and shower flange. Keeping the tiles a 1/16 th along all inside corners and flange.. still haven't decided yet as spacer size but she wants it at least 3/16 or 1/4 will keep looking for something for bathtub alcove ceilings. One other thing, this guy likes to use 100% silicon caulk on all the cement board inside corners/seams.. I would like using glass tape on the seams too prior thinsetting. Yes, I see it better waterproofing doing walls first ceiling last... no top grout line to fail.. wall tile goes 1/16 to hardibacker ceiling and gets a bead of silicon before the ceiling shorts (cut to finish) are butted a 1/16th against the walls! Of coarse I will work my full tile from the bullnose to the back wall. I think I'm getting there, and with you here to help me and you probably will! Lol

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

You can use any spacing your wife wants but nromal installation you use the 1/4 spacer for 12x12 tiles. I'd use a premixed grout that is stain proof, its about $24 for a 5 lbs. tub but it will not shrink, crack or stain and it will hold better when you do your overhead work. I would not use a 3 part expoxy overhead. Remember, thinset on concrete and modified acrylic thinset for Hardiebacker, Wonderboard or plywood. When your side wall meets the back wall you should keep the tiles spaced the same as you have done on the surface, 1/4" in your case. Do not grout this verticle seam, use a silicone caulk that is mildew proof. DAP makes some good ones called PLUS.

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Okay, but was wondering about the insider corners "side walls meeting the back and likewise with the ceiling meeting the walls , wouldn't be better to keep it thin like a 1/16 rather spaced the same ? Or are you saying it will look unprofessional?The reason I ask is because isn't a 1/4 bead of silicon going to stick out against the sandgrout? I'll do as you say if you say keep it the same!

Most of those disasters happened because people do not always follow the directions. I have used TrafficMaster several times with no issue but I stay on the project and don't let things harden too much before cleaning the grout. I big sponge and bucket of warm water and I my first wipe after about 10-15 minutes of setting the grout. Second wipe about 15 more minutes and I keep repeating the process until the tile looks clean and I can't hear any abrasive in the sponge. I usually wash down with white vinegar after about 4 hours and the guy who suggested cheese cloth is starting me thinking of another new approach, I may try his lemon oil next week. When finishing 1/4" grout lines remember that God gave you 8 free grout tools, 10 if you can use you thumbs. A wet finger running back and forth in a grout line can really give it a finished look like no other tool. I almost forgot about the inside corner question. You can go smaller than 1/4 if you want but I try to keep all grout lines the same size. I use those same 8 tools for silicon caulk in the corners.

Also note Jon.. that mildew resistant silicone/caulking come in different colors nowadays... look on line... For example, Kohler has a designer series of bathroom caulks to match their tub colors... Also, some of the grout manufacturers also make matching caulk colors... should be able to find one that closely approximates your grout color. Just wanted to mention is all.

Now you got my thinking MASS. Didn't know Kolher had this so I'm going to search a few porcelain tile and grout companies. I do lots of shower and I'd like to get that perfect match. The stuff I've been using gives you clear, white and almond, period.

Yeah... I stumbled onto this stuff about a year ago... I'll tell you, no more cracked grout or separated grout lines between tile and tub for me anymore... just this clean bead of color matched silicone. Have good day.

Yes mass/ballenger, did some research here last Friday LATICRETE® International > Homeowners > Products > Stain Resistance Grouts/Epoxy Grouts picked up the matching sand grout color caulk too for tile corners/stall flange. Plumber suppose to get started with waiste lines and possibly set tub tomorrow too. Really want the tub to wait until hardibacker is cemented/screwed level to subfloor before setting in the tub. Last night did the ceiling first took me awhile longer than I actually thought it would. 4 tile out for the tile cutter tomorrow to finiish round receased highhat.. will do the 3 small walls tomorrow starting with the back and I'll wait a few days before using this expensive sealant grout. They certainly don't want to give you much for your money! Lol sheesh 20 bucks + the c for 4 dollars more this groutplus better be worth it in the long run! I did mix the thinset gold in a small rectagular tub and used a small square trowel with the stardard 1/4 knotch. My first batch was to creamy and after 5 tile knew it was time for a dryer mix.. still took another mix to finally get that imperative consistency for ceiling work! Lol it came out straight and looks very professional.. I even used a cedar shake to help clean out/even helped straighten grout lines, and was sure to sponge clean each finished row as I went.. and kepted the sponge water clean so the tiles did dry nice and clean. The caulk will be used last, after all trim/bullnose work is complete. I was sure to leave a grout line space on the outside dropceiling where the trim or bullnose will set flush with the ceiling!

Mass, it is nice to know kohler has a match color for their tubs but, I most likely be using the same company products. This sanded grout color silicon based caulk is specified for their texture and grout colors. Thank you too

I was wondering about the glow on the dark spectra plus and dazzle after waching their video ! Might be good for home resale! Lol

I have a question about another project, the bathroom upstairs I used the modified thinset for the ceiling and it was on hardibacker as was specified by manufacture for the 6x6 tile I mentioned.. the downstairs ceiling tub 3x5 is this new GP densarmorplus sheetrock, which is mold resistant waterproof fiber glass coated paper gypsum board.. should I be better off with a acrylpro plus mastic for the same tile ? The walls will be thinset to hardibacker, but wondering if this mastic will prove efficient as described by nmanufacture?