I have an existing shower facuet (no tub outlet) in which there is no access except through the small hole opening for the faucet. There is also the plastic bracket that helps keep the faucet in place that makes it difficulet to get a crescent wrench on but I am able to get it to the fittings. The fittings are not soldered. But they do not seem to budge. They are copper fittings. I'm wondering if I need to use something to loosen them before they will turn with a crescent wrench and also if I need to remove the plastic bracket. The opening is at the 3 1/2 inch opening and I believe the new faucet allows for 5" so that may be a way to get more room to work. But I still need to be able to loosen the fittings and they won't seem to budge.

Any suggestions for replacements like these?

Thanks!

Scott

Hey smoky... You will need to purchase what they refer to as a GOOF PLATE (cover plate)... SYMMONS makes one that is oblong.. usually used for swapping a three handle faucet over to a single handle valve... and it is available at almost all home supply stores. Here, you put plate over old shower valve, then trace around the goof plate.. then cut the fiberglass or tile about 3/4" all the way around the inside of your pencil mark... NOW you have access to the shower pipe/fittings.

AND those pipes may look like they are threaded.. and they are... but the copper pipe is most likely soldered into them... here, you can use female adapter or solder pipe right into valve... so I am betting that you will need to do the following:

Get goof plate (cover plate),then purchase a mini tubing cutter, then cut that old valve out (shut off water, of course) and use couplings and pipe to fit a new valve... Let me know your thoughts.

What is on opposite side of wall?? Let me know.

If my answer helped, please RATE THIS ANSWER by clicking on rate this answer at upper right or at bottom of post. Thank you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hey smoky....You will need to purchase what they refer to as a GOOF PLATE (cover plate)...SYMMONS makes one that is oblong..usually used for swapping a three handle faucet over to a single handle valve...and it is available at almost all home supply stores. Here, you put plate over old shower valve, then trace around the goof plate..then cut the fiberglass or tile about 3/4" all the way around the inside of your pencil mark...NOW you have access to the shower pipe/fittings.

AND those pipes may look like they are threaded..and they are...but the copper pipe is most likely soldered into them...here, you can use female adapter or solder pipe right into valve...so i am betting that you will need to do the following:

Get goof plate (cover plate),then purchase a mini tubing cutter, then cut that old valve out (shut off water, of course) and use couplings and pipe to fit a new valve...Let me know your thoughts.

What is on opposite side of wall??? Let me know.

If my answer helped, please RATE THIS ANSWER by clicking on rate this answer at upper right or at bottom of post. Thank you.

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Hey Mass Plumber

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I'm going to look it over again and go to the store to look for the items you spoke about. I'm glad you confirmed cutting the hole bigger and letting me know that I'd likely have to cut the copper tubing and use couplings to put it back. I guess this means I'll have to solder it back together? I'm not schooled in it but I suppose it shouldn't be too hard.

I'm hoping to dive into this on Monday so I'll let you know how it turns out. I really appreciate your input and help.:)

Good luck! Stuff you will need:

MINI TUBING CUTTER
Lead free solder
Flux
Flux brush
Plumber's sand cloth
1/2" fitting brush
SYMMONS CHROME PLATE
4-1/2" copper slip couplings
2-1/2" copper couplings
2-1/2" copper elbows
ANY OTHER FITTINGS YOU SEE THAT YOU NEED, OF COURSE.

2 feet 1/2" copper pipe TYPE (L).. home supply stores sell in 1', 2', 5', and 10' lengths.. you should only need 2 feet or less.

Mappgas/acetylene/propane torch, and a

FIRE EXTINGUISHER! (FOR WOOD FIRE)!! ;)

Be careful... have a spray bottle of water handy as well... really not a bad job if you do things step at a time.

Keep us posted.

Hey MassPlumber,

For last question/comment before diving into this. I'm your typical, "think I can do it" handyman kind of guy... the guy that will install sinks, lights, ceiling fans and even put slate down in the bathroom; however, I'm curious to your opinion on the "handyman" type of guy completing this project. Is it something that can typically be done be the average guy at home... or should I be getting a plumber to come and complete this one for me.

I'm inclined to do it... my wife thinks otherwise.. :). What's your recommendation?

Again, I appreciate your input and time you've taken to help.

Well.. first... I need an answer to my next to last post... WHAT IS ON OTHER SIDE OF THE WALL.. If it just sheetrock... then job just got easier to do. Note, I did not say job got less involved ;) Just easier in terms of space to work which equals easier to work/access pipes. Here, if sheetrock, just cut between stud centers (via stud finder) and at about 6 inches above and below shower faucet and remove panel of sheetrock. Everything wide open then and will not need the SYMMONS goof plate. . NOTE: if you go this route be careful if fiberglass or acrylic shower wall as can easily burn shower surround (trick here is to keep flame from torch pointing out toward YOU all the time you are soldering).

If shower surround is tile... do you have a diamond type saw (rotozip makes a great tool for this, with a right angle head... diamond blade is about $35.00)to trim back the tile under the new SYMMONS cover plate? If surround is fiberglass or acrylic, rotozip will also do for the cutting of surround, but you will only need the plastic cutting drill bit (comes in package in tool kit)

As far as you doing it... I would tell you to practice soldering some fittings before entering the wall. I would tell you to PRESOLDER all male adapter fittings you may need... THEN teflon tape them and install to shower valve (only if male adapters needed). I would mention that if fiberglass/acrylic shower and doing it from the front of shower surround point flame in away from surround (opposite, as mentioned if doing from other side). AND I would tell you to keep the extinguisher and spraybottle of water I mentioned earlier handy. NOT because I think you will burn house down... well maybe ;) but really cause I want you to wet the area a bit before/after you finish soldering.

Last thing I will recommend is to go to AOL/YAHOO/GOOGLE and look for videos on soldering... many out there... YOUTUBE even has some. BUT AOL and YAHOO have really good ones. Just search SOLDERING COPPER... SEE WHAT YOU THINK AFTER THAT.

Wish you luck. Keep us posted.