Hi. My 5-year-old Kenmore washing machine suddenly stopped sensing when it has reached the proper fill level. Instead of beginning its wash cycle, it just keeps on filling and overflows until I shut it off. When I discovered it, I shut it off and moved the dial to spin, which allowed it to drain. I then set the water level to its lowest setting and tried again. It did not recognize that setting either, and just kept filling.

Other info -- I did notice there was a layer of scum sitting on the sheets that I had tried to wash, but I think this was just because the tub had filled higher that the normal limit, and 5 years of buildup above that line got soaked off.

I'm hoping to avoid an expensive service call -- can someone tell me how the washer knows how to stop filling and switch to wash mode? I'm looking at the parts list that came with the machine and the only one that sounds plausible is the "hose pressure switch." (I don't see any sensors on the list) It is a Kenmore 3-speed automatic washer model 110.22712100.

Any advice or referrals to other sources appreciated. Thanks, ~Julie

Remove the screws on each side of the control panel and flip it back. Remove the clips on either side between the back and top of the washer. You can then pull the whole cabinet off. Near the top of the tub on the rear right side is a doodad with a tube going down into the tub, and 2 wires going to the control panel. It is a very sensitive pressure switch. It shuts the water off. Likely it is bad.

How far in my instructions did you get? It is possible yours is enough newer than mine they don't work that way anymore. Once you have the control panel flipped back and the clips off, you may need to wiggle it around before it pops off. It takes some fiddling to get back on.

Oh, the link did work.

I removed the 2 screws located on the back of the machine, one inch from each top corner. And then I was stuck for a while -- it seemed like I should have been able to remove the trim endcaps, as they are called on my parts list, however; they wouldn't budge.

Instead I reached in from above the tub, to unclip 2 brass clips that held the back panel to the base of the wedge-shaped unit that contains all of the wires that attach to the control knobs.

So now it is apart enough to see a tube that runs from the water level control switch to a sealed translucent dome attached to the outside of the tub near the bottem. Do you think the pressure switch is at the control knob end, or inside the dome that is on the side of the tub? So far, I don't see any way of accessing or removing the dome, but sometimes these things take me a while.

I tried to take a couple of photos to send, but will need to recharge my camera battery first.

Obviously I am very inexperienced, but I have great tenacity. Thanks for your patience.

~Julie

I did finally got it apart and replaced the water level switch. Unfortunately that did ot fix the problem.

I'm wondering if something has to be done with that tube. There seemed to be some liquid in the bottom couple inches of it so I detached it from the dome (that is attached to the outside of the tub). I understand that the switch is pressure activated, and that its activation depends on the weight of the water in the tub, but I don't understand what is going on at the lower end of the tube. Specifically, how does the correct pressure to activate the switch at its water level setting happen, and does the tube have to be attached with a certain amonunt of pressure, or vacuum, in it for this to work? The tube seems fairly tight at its connections at each end, but maybe it has lost a bit of its seal somewhere and can't hold enough of the pressure caused by the increasing weight of the water to activate the switch?

Any thoughts?

Thank you.
~Julie

The tube needs to be open at the bottom for pressure to reach the switch. It is also possible the problem is back at the timer.

The pressure switch is solely responsible for directing power to either the water valves for fill, or the drive motor for agitation. The clear tube from the air dome on the side of the tub up to the level switch must be firmly seated at both ends and free of obstructions. A slight amount of water in the air dome is normal, however anytime the tube is removed, the tub must be completely empty of water before the tube is reconnected. If there is any water in the tub when the tube is reconnected, that level will become the "empty" setting for the switch. While it is possible the ends of the tube are stretched out and not sealing very well, after only five years its not very likely. To eliminate this possibility, you can trim the ends back about 1 inch and reconnect the tube ends. With the tub end disconnected, you should be able to blow into the tube and hear the switch diaphragm trip the contacts, and revert when you release the pressure in the tube. Usually, when a pressure-filled washer won't stop filling as this one has, the cause is a blockage in the tube. By simply removing both ends of the tube and blowing through it, you can clear the blockage and restore normal function. There may also be something blocking the hole that lets water into the air dome from inside the washer. Unfortunately, the only way to access this area is by removing the inner wash basket and the agitator, which requires a special tool called a spanner wrench. The only other thing I have seen to cause this was due to incorrect disassembly and reassembly of the cabinet and the pressure tube was kinked between the back wall and the top of the washer. Labman was correct when he tried to describe how to remove the cabinet, however he is unaware that on newer Kenmore units, the two screws that attach the control panel are now covered by trim pieces. These trim pieces are easily removed to reveal the screws, which allows the entire control panel to be pivoted open revealing all control panel components. You can go to www3.sears.com and enter your model number, clicking on your model number again for confirmation, and look and the diagram for the contol panel parts. When you get the image, part number 14 is the endcap trims that are removed by grasping the top rear edge and pulling up and toward yourself to pivot it away. The phillps head screws (one on each side; threads into the machine top at a downward angle) are removed, then grasping the control panel endcaps on the sides and pulling the base of the control panel towards you and lifting will release the control panel from the top of the washer. Keep in mind that by removing the screws on the back of the control panel, you disconnected one side of the hinges that keep it connected. This is the only way you will be able to reconnect the brass colored cabinet clamps when you're done. The clear hose should be routed behind a white strap on the back panel to keep it from being pinched during reassembly. While this was probably not the original cause of the failure, if you disassembled and reassembled the unit incorrectly for the pressure switch replacement procedure, it may now be the cause of continued failure. It's kind of a lengthy description, I do apologize for that, but I believe one of these things will solve your washer's problem. Hope it helps.

YAY!! I fixed it!! There was a hole in the tube where it went through the guide on the side of the tub. That guide actually has rather sharp edges, so the years of washing vibration must have made it wear through. I hadn't really been able to get into that area before, because I hadn't been able to get those trim pieces off. So easy once you know the trick, but I never would have figured it out. Anyway, I had to cut about 6 inches off the end and then reattach it. I didn't have enough length left to go through the sharp guide (wouldn't have anyway) or the one at the top of the cabinet, but I rerouted it pretty carefully and it all seems to be working fine. I spent the day doing the mountains of laundry that had accumulated, and had no problems. I am so very relieved.

I am very grateful to both Labman and Applguy for all of your help. I never could have done it without you.
~Julie

Glad to be of help. Just so you know, if the tube is pinched, the washer will overflow and flood the house. Make sure you never leave it running unattended, which is my recommendation anyway. Feels good, don't it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nonpocillovist

Hi. My 5-year-old Kenmore washing machine suddenly stopped sensing when it has reached the proper fill level. Instead of beginning its wash cycle, it just keeps on filling and overflows until I shut it off. When I discovered it, I shut it off and moved the dial to spin, which allowed it to drain. I then set the water level to its lowest setting and tried again. It did not recognize that setting either, and just kept filling.

Other info -- I did notice there was a layer of scum sitting on the sheets that I had tried to wash, but I think this was just because the tub had filled higher that the normal limit, and 5 years of buildup above that line got soaked off.

I'm hoping to avoid an expensive service call -- can someone tell me how the washer knows how to stop filling and switch to wash mode? I'm looking at the parts list that came with the machine and the only one that sounds plausible is the "hose pressure switch." (I don't see any sensors on the list) It is a Kenmore 3-speed automatic washer model 110.22712100.

Any advice or referrals to other sources appreciated. thanks, ~Julie

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Usually, when a pressure-filled washer won't stop filling as this one has, the cause is a blockage in the tube. By simply removing both ends of the tube and blowing through it, you can clear the blockage and restore normal function. There may also be something blocking the hole that lets water into the air dome from inside the washer. Unfortunately, the only way to access this area is by removing the inner wash basket and the agitator, which requires a special tool called a spanner wrench.

You folks have been really helpful in a lot of areas, but I came up with a new solution for this situation. The pressure switch checked out OKAY. Disconnected from the tube, the pressure switch cut off the water flow and kicked on the agitator when I blew into it. That told me it wasn't the pressure switch, so I decided to do the rest of the testing.

I couldn't get ANY air to move down the tube. I blew so hard I nearly knocked myself out. I couldn't get to the pressure dome to check the seal at the end, so I DID have to pull the case. No big deal, but a bit unwieldy.

Once I got the case off, I tried again to move air down the tube to the pressure dome. As someone else suggested, I thought maybe the hose had been kinked or pinched and that's why it didn't work. No air still.

THEN I GOT THE BRIGHT IDEA to use a bicycle pump to move some air. Worked like a CHAMP! Lots of resistance at first, then a lot less, and bubbles in the tub. Disconnected the pump and put my mouth back on it, and air moved freely. YAY! No buying special tools to use once and look at forever! No disassembling major systems that might be complex to reassemble. YAY, YAY, YAY-YAY!

I ran a cycle with the water level switch set to "small load", and it stopped filling just under halfway up the tub, when just that same day, it had overfilled the tub every time I wasn't looking.

I'm so glad to have figured this out. I hate when I lose battles of wits with machines. I've always thought I was smarter than they were.

Have a great day. Stay safe, and may God bless. I wish you His peace.

Dan

You were a savior! Finally after searching the web for an answer our washer is now operational.. Much Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by applguy

The pressure switch is solely responsible for directing power to either the water valves for fill, or the drive motor for agitation. The clear tube from the air dome on the side of the tub up to the level switch must be firmly seated at both ends and free of obstructions. A slight amount of water in the air dome is normal, however anytime the tube is removed, the tub must be completely empty of water before the tube is reconnected. If there is any water in the tub when the tube is reconnected, that level will become the "empty" setting for the switch. While it is possible the the ends of the tube are stretched out and not sealing very well, after only five years its not very likely. To eliminate this possibility, you can trim the ends back about 1 inch and reconnect the tube ends. With the tub end disconnected, you should be able to blow into the tube and hear the switch diaphragm trip the contacts, and revert when you release the pressure in the tube. Usually, when a pressure-filled washer won't stop filling as this one has, the cause is a blockage in the tube. By simply removing both ends of the tube and blowing through it, you can clear the blockage and restore normal function. There may also be something blocking the hole that lets water into the air dome from inside the washer. Unfortunately, the only way to access this area is by removing the inner wash basket and the agitator, which requires a special tool called a spanner wrench. The only other thing I have seen to cause this was due to incorrect disassembly and reassembly of the cabinet and the pressure tube was kinked between the back wall and the top of the washer. Labman was correct when he tried to describe how to remove the cabinet, however he is unaware that on newer Kenmore units, the two screws that attach the control panel are now covered by trim pieces. These trim pieces are easily removed to reveal the screws, which allows the entire control panel to be pivoted open revealing all control panel components. You can go to www3.sears.com and enter your model number, clicking on your model number again for confirmation, and look and the diagram for the contol panel parts. When you get the image, part number 14 is the endcap trims that are removed by grasping the top rear edge and pulling up and toward yourself to pivot it away. The phillps head screws (one on each side; threads into the machine top at a downward angle) are removed, then grasping the control panel endcaps on the sides and pulling the base of the control panel towards you and lifting up will release the control panel from the top of the washer. Keep in mind that by removing the screws on the back of the control panel, you disconnected one side of the hinges that keep it connected. This is the only way you will be able to reconnect the brass colored cabinet clamps when you're done. The clear hose should be routed behind a white strap on the back panel to keep it from being pinched during reassembly. While this was probably not the original cause of the failure, if you disassembled and reassembled the unit incorrectly for the pressure switch replacement procedure, it may now be the cause of continued failure. It's kind of a lengthy description, I do apologize for that, but I believe one of these things will solve your washer's problem. Hope it helps.

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Thanks for the update. Regards, Tom