Ask Me Help Desk - I'm getting poor spark or no spark

I'm getting poor spark or no spark

Here are the specs
1990 Crx Hf. No rust car came AZ.
18c1 GSR Block was sleeved by Benson Performance
CP 84.5mm pistons
Pistons have anti-friction side coating and ceramic top coatings
Eagle H beam rods
New type R oil pump
New Type R water pump
New Type R timing belt
Balanced and blue printed crank
B16 head
Skunk2 Pro series intake manifold
Crower valve springs with titanium retainers
1999 GSR cams
Skunk2 cam gears
Cosmetic 3 layer metal head gasket
Port and polish head and port match intake manifold
ARP Head Studs
The head was fully gone through a 3 angle valve job .It has 9.0:1 compression. Im am running obd1 set up with a p28 ecu. I did a Da brake set up on the front and back. The trans is A1.

I was driving the car. I parked it for a week come outside to move it and it wouldn't start. I was getting fuel but I had little or no spark at the plugs. I took the dizzy cap off and checked the spark there. It was yellow and didn't seen like it was a good spark. I took off the dizzy did some testing on the ignitor and coil. They were both good. Just to be on the safe side I replaced them with a new dizzy.
I have checked all the fuses. I have replaced all the ground wires and cleaned off the ground connections. The fuel pump does prime and there is fuel pressure at the rail and the fuel injectors do fire. I have also replaced the ecu thinking that the ecu went bad.
I have been on many sites trying to get some info on what the problem is. Please help. Thanks jeff:mad:

Is the new distributor a genuine Honda or an aftermarket? On this site, we have had many problems with new aftermarket distributors on Hondas.

Quote:

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Is the new distributor a genuine Honda or an aftermarket? On this site, we have had many problems with new aftermarket distributors on Hondas.

Its OEM distributor. I had put a aftermarket one just to see if I was getting spark but the same thing over and over again.

CEL comes on and goes off, after 2 seconds , when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

Quote:

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

CEL comes on and goes off, after 2 seconds , when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

Yes it does all the normal things before you start it. You hear the clicks from main relay and the fuel pump priming.

Everything sounds like it should run. Try resetting the ECM and cleaning the main ECM ground on the thermostat. If the problem persists, I would assume something is wrong with the distributor. Is the distributor cap and rotor in good shape? Are the spark plug wires fully seated in the distributor cap? Before you replaced the distributor, did you mark the distributor housing and mount to ensure the timing would be fairly close when you installed the new distributor?

Quote:

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Everything sounds like it should run. Try resetting the ECM and cleaning the main ECM ground on the thermostat. If the problem persists, I would assume something is wrong with the distributor. Is the distributor cap and rotor in good shape? Are the spark plug wires fully seated in the distributor cap? Before you replaced the distributor, did you mark the distributor housing and mount to ensure the timing would be fairly close when you installed the new distributor?

I have resetted the ecu, cleaned the ground wires and with hondas there's only one way to put on the dizzy. There are groves on the inside of the dizzy and cam. If you don't lines them up right there's a big gap between the dizzy and the head.

I understand about physically installing the distributor; however, the issue is whether the distributor is too far advanced or retarded, once it's installed. Timing is advanced by turning the distributor counterclockwise, retarded by turning it clockwise. You may need to rotate the distributor, in order to get the engine started--later, you can fine-tune the timing by setting it with a timing light. My bet is the timing is retarded too much; therefore, loosen the 3 mounting bolts, turn the distributor slightly counterclockwise, and then retighten the mounting bolts.

Stop dumping money into performance mods and save your pennies for a newer fuel efficient automobile. Problem solved.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanPatrick10

Stop dumping money into performance mods and save your pennies for a newer fuel efficient automobile. Problem solved.

For your information Dan the car gets 375 miles a tank and my gas tank is only 10 gals. The cars weigh around 1800 pounds. Also for your " Newer fuel efficient automobile" in 1986 the CR-X Hf was getting 51 mpg in city and on the highway 60+.
Here is more info on the car.
Honda CR-X - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I just got done doing the k test just to make sure that it wasn't the ecu. I got a full 5 volts at the map.