Hello all. I recently stumbled onto this site and have found it very helpful in answering most of my plumbing questions. My current home fix-it project has hit a speed bump and I could use a little help/advice.

I was replacing the worn (40+ yr old) faucet in my bathroom sink when I found that the drain pipe, the portion above the trap that goes into the wall had been sawn off flush with the wall. No kidding. One of the previous owners had done that, then pressed a segment of copper pipe (1 1/2 diameter) into the drain line, and applied some black (now old and hard) goop around to seal it. I found this out when I was trying to loosen the nut on downstream side of the trap - the nut didn't move, but the upper polished metal piece stuffed over the copper pipe wiggled off.

I now, wanting to do the right thing, plan on replacing the drain. I have access to the pipe from the basement below (the bathroom is on the first floor). The original drain line appears to be galvanized steel, 1 1/2 inches in diameter. It joins to a cast iron waste line with a lead and oakum hub and socket joint.

My first thought was to remove the steel pipe down to and including the lead and oakum. I saw on another thread on this forum of how to do that [drilling around the socket pipe, into the lead, then using a screwdriver to lever the lead out of the joint]. I don't have the tools or skill to pour a new L&O joint... so I mentally moved onto another solution - a hubless joint.

For the hubless joint (the heavy rubber sleeve with band clamps at each end) I knew I could find one to fit a new 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe. I've used a cast iron pipe splitter before, so that I'm not concerned with... but in measuring the cast iron pipe, using a string wrapped around it, then measuring the marked length and calculating the diameter - I get a cast iron pipe diameter of 2 3/8". My dilemma is that I don't know if the 2" hubless rubber sleeve with stretch enough to slip over the cast iron. I don't want to cut the cast iron pipe yet until I'm certain that this is the right way to go.

I really look forward to your suggestions.

Thanks in advance,

Elia Gianopulos,
Rose Valley, PA

Mu suggestion would be to either ;
1. Cut the galvanized off a few inches from the cast iron hub. Connect a piece of 2" PVC using a Fernco coupling. The two pipes have different outside diameters but rubber couplings are made to accommodate that.
or:
2. Cut the galvanize several feet from hub. Then begin pushing back and forth horizontally and up and down until you can pull it out of the hub. Pick out lead, get the proper size gasket to fit inside the hub for PVC pipe. Grease the PVC and push into the gasket. It won't be easy. Trying to drive it in with a hammer probably won't work. Try to rig up something to give you leverage, such as a 2 X 4 between a floor joist and the end of the pipe. If the gasket does not fit as tightly as you think it should, you have a heavy duty version of cast iron. Unless you can find the proper gasket, just seal with caulk or silicone as best as you can.

Hi EliaNG... Hey, cut the cast iron using a cast iron cutting sawzall blade or a 8-10 tooth/inch bi-metal sawzall blade and attach that 2" fernco coupling AND a 2" dandy cleanout (called a test tee in some places) and then attach a 2x1.5 flush bushing into the end of the dandy clean out and run to sink... good luck!

Thanks for the suggestions hkstroud and massplumber2008. It sounds like the Fernco coupling should then stretch enough to fit over the 2 3/8" diameter cast iron pipe. That was my nagging question. I had bought a 1 1/2" to 2" Fernco, but I can return it for a 2" to 2" Fernco, and pick up the clean-out segment, and either that bushing, or a 1 1/2" to 2" transition (I think). I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again,

Elia Gianopulos
Rose Valley, PA

Your going to want a 2" cast iron pipe to 1.5" PVC pipe 1056-215 (2.4 to 1.9") from: Fernco, Inc.

The nominal OD's are 2.375 and 1.9" respectively. Yea, I know, pipe, tube and nominal dimensions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

Your going to want a 2" cast iron pipe to 1.5" PVC pipe 1056-215 (2.4 to 1.9") from: Fernco, Inc.

The nominal OD's are 2.375 and 1.9" respectively. Yea, I know, pipe, tube and nominal dimensions.

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Those aren't really accepted for indoor use by most of the adopted codes in the US (they're fine for buried horizontal transitions, though).

What he needs to use to make this transition is a Proflex CP-215.

Growler: They make more sense.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

Growler: They make more sense.

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I'm not sure I follow.

The coupler you selected.

I'm with Growler on this. We use ridged couplings indoors. More support then neoprene couplings.

Actually, we aren't allowed to use ferncos on anything in Mass... not by code. We are required to use transition fittings and clamp or mission clamps. SInce I have to warranty work I am a huge fan of the husky 4 band clamps... but most homeowners cannot find these unless they go to a plumbing supply house (or mission clamps). You guys just won't let me get away with anything... huh?? ;)

I'm a little confused. I clicked on the Proflex CP-215 link and it took me to a Fernco site. Is the CP-215 a fernco product? From looking at the link it appears to be a rubber inner sleeve surrounded by a metal, lap jointed shell and secured by two band clamps.

I've got a good old fashioned plumbing supply store near by - no fancy displays, just lots of "stuff" on shelves. That's where I found the Central Brass replacement set for my old sink (the spigot and faucets mount on a vertical surface, and the faucet to faucet distance was some funny number, like 6 1/4 inches). The CB set worked like a charm.

On a related topic - how does a big box store sell the fernco rubber sleeve with only band clamps (no metal jacket)?

Thanks again guys,

Lowe's has band clamps and Fernco's.

You know EliaNG.. it is amazing.. here in Mass. Ferncos are not legal for any type of new or repair work but Lowe's and home depot only sell those and the banded clamps everyone is talking about. Elsewhere they are acceptable on horizontal pipe work and some towns allow them for repairs. That is the greatest difficulty on this site... every town different... every state has a twist of its own... but most of the time we work it out based on national code which applies best most of the time.


You have a number of choices... all will work: 1) Can use the fernco originally posted (2"x2")... 2) can use proflex cp215 (2" to 1.5") or proflex cp2 (2" to 2"), 3) can use a 2"no-hub x 2"PVC adapter and any 2" 2band clamp, 4) or a 2" husky 4 band no hub clamp... sold at most local plumbing supply houses only. Lots of choices huh..

They all work!! Most forgiving is the fernco... then the 4 band... then the proflex. You must decide from there... good luck!

Hello all -

I'm just getting back to you all who helped me with suggestions. Everything worked out very nicely. I rented a Sawzall, bought some blades for cutting cast iron, cut the cast iron drain pipe, reassembled the drain upstream of the cast iron from PVC, and ended up using a Proflex 1 1/2" to 2" coupling. The job turned out nice and clean, I feel great about fixing it myself, and I'm sure I saved myself a couple of dollars in the process.

Many thanks from outside of Philly,

Elia

Thank you EliaNG... always nice to hear how something ends up. Glad we could help.

Should have bought that sawsall, you are going to need it again, you are hooked.